So, my understanding is that the point of these hubs with a 9mm ‘thru axle’ option is that you can mount them in standard size dropouts, with a kind of giant, tubular skewer QR? Or have I misunderstood?

In real terms is this any advantage over a regular QR? Is it a bit stiffer because a regular skewer can have a bit of stretch? Or is it just a gimmick and no better at all? I realise it’s never going to match a proper thru axle setup.

I’m not sure if it’s what you’re after but I have a 10mm axel conversion on my Intense 66 with Pro 2 Evos. It seems to stiffen up the rear end when hammering it into corners over the 9mm qr.

I needed a new set of hope end caps that easily popped in and out and a 10mm DT skewer. The skewer sits in the drop out and then it has a ratchet end that nips it all up.

I like it, a mate has the same thing on his orange 5 and says it needs it.

Wozza, your rear QR is 4mm or so, not 9mm.

The axle diameter/slot in the drop out is 9mm on the front, 10mm on the rear. The rear 10mm is the most common mentioned but the front equivalent is 9mm.

OP – yes, the 9mm QR should fit in a normal QR dropout. The hub omits the 9mm axle bits that sit in the drop out and yes the thinking is the larger axle is less stretchy. Problem is you are comparing a 4mm or so bit of steel to some aluminium so there needs to be 3x the cross sectional area to get the same stiffness in pure tension. I think an additional benefit comes from a larger diameter where the end fitting are as there can be some flex in the nut/cam at the end when the forks are flexed. But remember a shimano internal cam QR is a very god design and can get some pretty high tensions.

Proper through axle takes the same philosophy but just goes bigger so has stiffness and weight benefits.

Sorry for the confusion. I’ll get my coat.

While we’re on the subject, is the new Cotic 9mm through-axle the same as this?

Yes – Cy says the new fork will take a 9mm through axle, but will also spring enough to allow a standard 9mm axle into the (closed) dropout.

Sounds like andyl is right. I run a 10mm rear qr. Fits through the standard qr dropout on my frame without issues. Superstar hub and superstar 10mm (rear) QR.

Whether or not it makes a significant difference is hard to say!

I fitted a superstar 9mm through axle onto a set of 29er wheels a there was definitely a bit of noticeable flex at the fron t when cornering, and it definitely made things better, so imo yes worth it if you can feel some flex.

makes more of a difference on the front ime, but still useful on the rear

especaially when riding hard on lightweight forks

http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=286

I went to 9mm through axle on a pair of Magura MD120ms that were pretty much the stiffest 9mm QR suspension forks I’ve ever ridden, and they beefed things up noticably. I’d recommend – especially if (as I had) you’ve got a Hope Pro II and can buy the end caps and a SuperStar through axle QR for about £25 all in.

My 4560b has old fashioned vertical QR rear dropouts. My Hub is a Hope pro2 evo.

What adapter and skewer do I need to make it as stiff as poss??

The above Superstars and standard 9mm front 10mm rear adaptors for your hubs. Hope non Evo pro2 rears used to need a different axle fitting to do this. Evo’s have the bigger axle as standard and just need end caps.

DT RWS might be lighter but will cost more. Will want the same adaptors.

Ok cheers, so what’s the difference between the £30 ’10mm Bolt In’ and the £10 ’10mm Bolt Thru’ ?

Bolt in is a separate bolt in each end into an internally threaded axle.

Bolt through is a large diameter QR.

google is useful for pics

Bolt in sounds like a PIA for taking the wheel out.

🙂 the pictures confuse me more! think I’ve grasped it now…

Bolt in sounds like a PIA for taking the wheel out.

Not if you carry a spanner 😛