- This topic has 22 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 12 years ago by Aristotle.
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10 speed – whats the crack (1×10)
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rob-jacksonFree MemberPosted 12 years ago
Currently run 22/36 with an 11/32 cassette
To mimic the spread i have here with 1 x 10 is their a setup i could go for?
I would need to buy:
new front ring
cassette (XT)
mech (SLX)
shifter (XT)
chain (not a clue??)
Would i need a chain guide if i use a bash ring?Any deals on?
njee20Free MemberPosted 12 years agoTo mimic the spread i have here with 1 x 10 is their a setup i could go for?
No.
You could run a 36t and have the same top end, but unless you run a 25t you’ll lose out at the bottom end. Ask yourself how often you really use the very top and bottom gears. A 34t would see you lose one gear at the top end, and 2 and a bit at the bottom.
A bash guard and some sort of jump stop on the inside would be sufficient, wouldn’t think a bash on it’s own would work. Otherwise your list has it covered.
rob-jacksonFree MemberPosted 12 years agoits the bottom end – climbing that i am concerned about, dark peak is my locale and there are some savage ups!
speaker2animalsFull MemberPosted 12 years agoDo you really need to go 1×10? Just a thought.
As said though, if you keep the bash on you could try one of the road bike chain keepers, a LOT cheaper than almost every chain device I have seen for MTBs.
kimbersFull MemberPosted 12 years agoAs said though, if you keep the bash on you could try one of the road bike chain keepers, a LOT cheaper than almost every chain device I have seen for MTBs.
or just go for the superstar one
RealManFree MemberPosted 12 years agoDo you want to go 1×10 because it would make practical sense, or because you think it’s cool? If you’re getting on fine with a double, stick with it.
JeffusFree MemberPosted 12 years agoI find 32 or 34 up front and 36-11 out back gives a good range, and I can climb most trails with this set up, I tried a 36 up front and found it too hard on the steeper longer rides,some guys can push the 36 upfront, but I can’t. 😀
rob-jacksonFree MemberPosted 12 years agoRealman, to simplify things really and also to make me use a dose of mtfu on climbs an dnot just to sit and spin. On the same hill today (road) i managed to get up towing my 2 year old daughter in a trailer (hill is 10%ish) using 38/28
On my mtb (which i appreciate has smaller wheels and fatter tyres) i spin up in 22/34
so in my mind on my mtb i am a lazy **** who needs a kick up the arse!
rob-jacksonFree MemberPosted 12 years agoeasy way to try is to disconnect my front mech for a ride and leave it on the middle ring up front.
davidtaylforthFree MemberPosted 12 years agoeasy way to try is to disconnect my front mech for a ride and leave it on the middle ring up front.
An even easier way would be to disconnect your brain from your left thumb
ScienceofficerFree MemberPosted 12 years agoOn my mtb (which i appreciate has smaller wheels and fatter tyres) i spin up in 22/34
This is because you can, so the MTFU reason is a good one as any, since its very easy to be lazy – If you’ve got the gears, you’ll use them, is my experience.
I won’t be running 1×10 until my current 1×9 setup has run out, but, if anything, my climbing is better without the granny ring, since the lower cadence seem to be better for smoothing out my torque. Theres nothing locally (Mendips, Quantocks) that feels particularly harder on a 32T 32-11 than when I was running a triple.
I do feel a little loss of big gears when cranking down big hills a speed, but thats not a great portion of my riding. I’m also putting a 34-11 on the back for an imminent lakes trip, just to give me a slightly lower gear.
I love the simplicity and the near 1.5lbs weight loss too.
StuEFree MemberPosted 12 years agoI run 1×9 32 and a 36-12 Deore cassette http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31059
Just fitted one of these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=58726
Very good for £40.00honourablegeorgeFull MemberPosted 12 years agoA pound and a half? Been adding up mine, no way there’s that much saving.
330g here, not counting cables or the lighter chainring bolts.
marsdenmanFree MemberPosted 12 years agoeasy way to try is to disconnect my front mech for a ride and leave it on the middle ring up front.
Nah, just have an XO trigger shift implode = no need to disconnect that, though I’ve found I do need to disconnect my brain….
On hols at the mo, down from West Yorks to Taunton = Quantocks Territory 🙂
So, my first experience on 1×9 is gonna be fun….
If it works out down here (I figure I spend 90% + of my time in the middle ring at home) then it’ll be an extended test back home…. i’m no weight weenie or ‘fashion victim’ – simple case of ‘give it a go’, worse that can happen – I shop for new shifters when i get home….. 🙂ScienceofficerFree MemberPosted 12 years agoI’ve just had a look at some figures – you’re right, theres no way it can be 1.5lbs. I think I may be confusing that with some additional weight saving stuff I did at the same time.
Still, 0.75lbs is still not to be sniffed at when you’re looking at increasingly diminishing returns when throwing money at it to lighten it up.
JeffusFree MemberPosted 12 years agoA couple of other bonus’s leaves a space on your bars for dropper post lever and makes it easier to clean your bike no front mech full of pine needles and mud 😀
I’ve been using a E-13 srs up front never missed a beat in 2 years, puts some of the weight back on that you’ve taken off, but keeps your chain on 😀
bs3eggsFree MemberPosted 12 years agoYou will get used to it, I would just drop the gears and get stronger, I recently took my rigid commuter ss mtb on the trails didnt think I would get anywhere as was pushing 44 16, you learn how to conserve speed and ride smother although I stood most of the time and sometimes had to walk. I would go for 36 cr 11-36 cassette. Then next time get a 32 cassette.
Recommend a chain device, cut one side off a pauls and run a bash 🙂
deviantFree MemberPosted 12 years agoThe reservation i have about ever going down this route is when people say (like in the post above)….”and sometimes i had to walk”
To me that defeats the point of having a mountain bike.
Wasnt the original concept for mountain bikes to be ‘go anywhere’ machines?….having such a limited range of gears that i then have to start getting off and walking up terrain i would otherwise manage in the granny ring baffles me.
Each to their own i suppose but i enjoy the satisfaction of staying on the bike during a ride.
bs3eggsFree MemberPosted 12 years agoGo anywhere if you are fit enough lol! I think most of us would be ok with 36 36 up 99% of hills. 44 was an extreme example
rob-jacksonFree MemberPosted 12 years ago36/32 was astruggle on the roman rd out of hope today but doable, i think 32 up front and a 34 casssette may JUST work for me but it seems a faff and toomuch of a compromise so will stick with what i have
JeffusFree MemberPosted 12 years ago32 up front and 36 out back is great you can climb almost anything,,,
does spin out thoughAristotleFree MemberPosted 12 years agoBased on the fact that a 2:1 singlespeed can be ridden (with some heaving and grimacing) up most hills that a geared bike can, then using a 9 or 10 speed should allow most riders to ride almost anywhere.
If you have a 9 speed rear setup, I wouldn’t bother changing it for a 10 speed.
I removed my big ring from my geared mtbs a long time ago and have never missed them. 34t is plenty for me and the extra ground clearance is useful.
I did about half of my riding on a singlespeed for a few years so I know that I am capable of stomping on the pedals.
Having rationalised the fleet and becoming less fit due to a lack of riding for a while, I found that I was lacking a ‘normal’ XC/off-road commuter hardtail. I did about half of my riding on a singlespeed for a few years so I know that I am capable of stomping on the pedals so I raided my parts bin and bought some bits to install a 9 speed transmission: 34t Chainring and a 34-11t cassette. I really like it.
No, It isn’t geared for road riding, but then it isn’t a road bike.
I’m currently using an old XT mech as a ‘chain device’, but the chain does sometimes jump off on very rocky trails.
I intend to make/use something narrower and simpler as a top guide and to fit a lower roller guide.
On my fairly heavy full-susser I have kept my granny ring as it allows me to ride up steep hills whilst sat down.
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