Viewing 35 posts - 1 through 35 (of 35 total)
  • Tips for removing a super stiff cassette lockring?
  • Premier Icon kevin1911
    Full Member

    I bought a set of new, but 2nd hand, wheels a while ago, which came with a brand new saint cassette which I was chuffed about. Just tried to take the cassette off and it seems that the lockring is well and truly stuck.

    I’ve tried everything I can think of. Anyone got any clever methods for getting the lochring to budge?

    Premier Icon PaulD
    Free Member

    Never had one that would not come off.

    Use the QR skewer to hold the lock-ring tool in place and use a ring spanner on it….24mm I think….or socket and long bar.
    Longest chainwhip you can find on 3rd largest sprocket and push the two apart with the wheel and tyre resting on the ground.

    Expect a big bang and all will loosen.

    PaulD

    Premier Icon clubber
    Free Member

    Pull harder on the tools?

    So you’re using a chainwhip and a lockring tool and it just won’t budge? If you really can’t just force it then you’ll have to use some penetrating oil or similar to try to free it up.

    Or try making the tools longer – a cheap seatpost/scaffolding/etc is an easy way to add leverage.

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
    Full Member

    You are turning it the right way, i.e. have to hold the cassette still with a chain whip not pushing against the freehub ratchet?

    If you’re doing it right then put the lockring tool in a vice and turn the chain whip with a bit of scafold pole (or similar) over it.

    Premier Icon kevin1911
    Full Member

    I’m using molegrips to grip the lockring tool (doesn’t have a hole for the QR to fit through. The chainwhip is just a standard one from a fairly basic bike toolkit, always worked ok in the past. It digs right into my hand though, which limits the force I can use without slicing my hand open. Maybe need to invest in a posher chainwhip

    Premier Icon Nobeerinthefridge
    Free Member

    Make sure you don’t have the qr too tight on it!

    Premier Icon wwaswas
    Full Member

    put on a pair of gardening gloves.

    Premier Icon kevin1911
    Full Member

    Oh, and yes defo turning it the right way 🙂

    Premier Icon clubber
    Free Member

    Wrap the chainwhip in a few layers of cloth/old clothes/etc to make it comfortable.

    Premier Icon irelanst
    Free Member

    I prefer to have the spanner and chain whip close so you can squeeze them together, when it does go you have less chance of removing knuckle skin on spokes/cassette.

    Premier Icon fenred
    Free Member

    Penetrating oil as above then I find standing ‘over’ the vertical wheel, ie wheel between your legs allows you to apply more force…When it does finally ‘crack’ if will be one of the most satisfying sounds in your fettling career 😉

    Premier Icon Jerome
    Full Member

    get a lockring tool with a handle on it,and add a lever to said handle ( long tube of steel should do the trick.

    Premier Icon mr_mills
    Free Member

    Get your heaviest mate to come round. One of you put all your weight on the chainwhip handle and one on the handle of a mahoosive adjustable spanner. Maybe bounce a bit. Worked for me.

    Premier Icon spectabilis
    Free Member

    Give it a soak of Plus-Gas or red diesel and try again .

    Premier Icon rocketman
    Free Member

    Can be quite helpful to get a mate or even the mrs to hold the wheel while you unscrew the lockring

    Holding it a the right angle somehow makes it a lot easier 🙂

    Premier Icon kevin1911
    Full Member

    Well, just been out and tried the old clothes around the chainwhip trick, and the seatpost over the allen key in the locring tool (the molegrips were slipping on it).

    And I got the explosion….. but it was my trusty allen key snapping in half…

    Premier Icon fenred
    Free Member

    Allen key?? 😯

    Chain whip, cassette tool, Big adjustable wrench, muscle…

    Premier Icon Marge
    Free Member

    use an old chain to make a whip that is attached to something solid. Mine is attached to the work bench.

    Premier Icon robinlaidlaw
    Free Member

    Use a 12″ long adjustable spanner on the lockring tool and make sure the lockring tool is well held in by QR. Set the chain whip directly opposite spanner. Put some gloves on, stand leaning over the wheel so you can push down on the tools to undo, lift the wheel in the air with the tools and then punch it straight back down onto the ground as hard as you can, leaning on the ends of the tools. Repeat as necessary.

    Premier Icon d45yth
    Free Member

    Allen key??

    +1…stop fannying about and use one of these:

    Premier Icon rocketman
    Free Member

    Put the allen key down and step away from the wheel

    use an adjustable spanner or the correct size socket on the lockring tool you won’t do it with an allen key it will break 😉

    Premier Icon mr_mills
    Free Member

    🙄

    Premier Icon weeksy
    Full Member

    Oh…. i’ve just realised… you can use a spanner !!!!!

    Damn i was having this issue last week and had a nightmare getting mine off as the Allen key forces it off at an incorrect angle.

    Premier Icon mr_mills
    Free Member

    My lockring tool gives you no option but to use a spanner!

    Premier Icon woody2000
    Full Member

    One of these makes the job easier IMO, it locates much more postively and you can tap it with a mallet to help with sticky lock rings.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=55936

    Premier Icon kevin1911
    Full Member

    Right, going to get a new lockring tool (the one I have is worn where the molgrips were slipping), a new chainwhip that I can extend with something, and some plus gas.

    I refuse to be defeated. Thanks for the encouragement. I shall report back.

    Premier Icon wwaswas
    Full Member

    I use a 2ft bar on my lockring tool – try and get one with a half inch drive socket hole in the end.

    Premier Icon T1000
    Free Member

    before you do anything else fill a small pot with plusgass or any other penetrating oil flip the wheel over an leave the lockring end in to soak over night

    a vice is the best option for gripping the lockring tool

    If not

    put a socket on the end of that tool

    preferably a 1/2 drive socket set and 2′ breaker bar or bit of scaffold tool

    wrap the chain whip tool in tape to bulk out the handle and us a bit of scaffold tube to extend as well

    most of all be patient

    you could buy yourself a breaker bar and a single socket from Halfrauds or B&Q

    Premier Icon thisisnotaspoon
    Full Member

    Have you tried tightening it? Just enought to break whatever corrosion is holding it in palce.

    Premier Icon orangeboy
    Free Member

    I’ve yet to have one that won’t come off. Much as above I prefer to squeeze the two handles together.
    A longer lever is your friend and for me a breaker bar and socket works on almost everything

    Premier Icon bigyinn
    Free Member

    Allan key??? WTF did you think the big flats on the end of the tool were for? Step away from the wheel and take it down the bike shop.

    Premier Icon PaulD
    Free Member

    Get one of these and use the QR to hold it in place…slower but more secure and longer-living than the one with a central rod.
    I bought an original Shimano TL74 in 1998 and it has worked perfectly since.
    Does cassettes, screw-on freehubs and centre-lock rotors….bargain.

    The ebay reference to UG hubs is a double chainwhip tool as the smallest cog is screwed on like a fixie.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spanner-Shimano-Bike-Freehub-Cassette-Removal-Tool-9715A-/160896108447?pt=UK_Spots_Leisure_Cycling_Tools_RepairKits&hash=item257627c79f

    PaulD

    Premier Icon Pukeko
    Free Member

    Or, do it horizontal 8) put the lockring tool in a vice, sit cassette/wheel in the lockring tool, use chain whip with grrrr. be prepared to end up sitting on the ground when it goes though…

    Premier Icon phinw
    Free Member

    Before you go bananas on a load of new gear, it often helps to give the locking a few firm taps with a hammer and/or heat it up a bit. I often find this encourages it to let go. That said, a chuffing big adjustable spanner on your locking ring tool will go a long way too!

    Premier Icon kevin1911
    Full Member

    Ha! Bingo!! It turns out that the cassette lockring tool I have actually allows you to remove the allen key fitment so you can instead fit a 1/2″ drive wrench. I’d never have even thought about trying to remove it until I saw the posts above.

    So I did that, used an old seatpost for leverage as suggested, wrapped the chainwhip in some old rags, and jumped on both tools simultaneously for a good five minutes (all 16st of me) before it finally gave way. The cherry on the cake: I didn’t even lose any fingers in the spokes/cassette or smack my face off the tyre. Result!

    Give yourselves a collective pat on the back! Thank you all again.

Viewing 35 posts - 1 through 35 (of 35 total)

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