Sun Race Cassette Issues

I have a SunRace 11 speed 11-50 cassette, running on a hope hub, and an XT changer.
It has been faultless until now. No matter what I do to the high /low screws I cannot get it to smoothly down shift.
It will go up through the range ok, and drops down from the biggest cog , to the next one okay, but then it won’t move until you click down, then it jumps two sprockets. Which is doing my head in.

One thing to say, the cassette has done around 2000 kms. Is it just worn out (it doesn’t look like it is)?
Anything else I am doing wrong?

I have the exact same kit and the same issue. Watching with interest..
Edit. I’ve not touched the end stops but have played with cable tension to no avail.

Cables are the first thing to check, as too much friction in the cables will cause this.

High/low screws will have nothing to do with it – they just set the limits of the mech travel.

It might not be the cassette. Check the inner gear cable for any damage.
Even a tiny kink in the inner cable can cause issues with the downshift.

I can only say I didn’t like the shifting of the 50t sunrace compared to the 46t. No matter what I tried it was always a bit sluggish and janky compared to the 46t, which I love and have on several bikes.

Odd – as the cable is only a few weeks old. Now it is a decathlon PTFE special – could that be a problem?
I thought about the cable as being the logical issue – oddly tightening the barrel screw doesn’t seem to alter the jump issue ( but introduces other issues).
The stops should have no effect. I know that – but I was just trying “stuff” to see is I could get a resolution.
May be time to man up and get the 11-46!
Anyone tried the Shimano Deore 11-51?

Odd – as the cable is only a few weeks old.

Could be stretch. Or bent hanger? B tension? Chain length?

2000km wear doesn’t affect shifting

Silly question but mech hanger?

newish chain…
the B screw ( with that size of cassette) either allows it to shift or it snags – not a lot of option.
Bent hanger – hmmm , can see when that would have happened but obvious worth investigation
Chain length means it would go into the top , or the bottom, it will go into both, It just won’t change from cog 10 to cog 9 …. so it isn’t logical!

Did you replace inners and outers, or just inner? If you did both, has the outer routing or length changed at all?

Get it to the point where it should have shifted, but hasn’t, and then gently pull the exposed bit of inner out of the outer. Does it shift?

I’d say slightly bent hanger, big range cassettes seem more sensitive.
That said 2000km isn’t bad on an MTB cassette, depending on riding conditions obviously.

I had something similar a while ago on an 11-46. There was a break in one of the outer wire braids where it was against the rear ferrule. Just seemed to be inhibiting cable movement minutely. Replacement cable sorted it.

Some PTFE cables can delaminate but in these situations, I always start with mech hanger alignment just to rule it out.

I’ve got the same hubs and XT drivetrain as you but the 46t cassette. It runs like a dream. It’s much smoother and quieter than the XT was.

I’d say your mech hanger is bent but when I say bent I mean just enough to cause a slight issue. If it hasn’t visibly moved to one side it could be twisted slightly. These new larger cassettes are definitely more sensitive to it.

Your LBS might have the big, long tool that can show you how straight it really is.

Watches with crap complete 12speed SunRace kit

= 1 majorly unhappy chap

It’s not the mech hanger!! It’s more likely the PTFE inner cable is scuffed somewhere causing issues, or your B screw not set up correctly, I did find with 11speed a 46T cassette worked better than a 50T with a Sunrace rear derailleur & XT one.

I moved from an SLX 11-46 to a SunRace 11-50. My shifting was beautifully faultless on the old cassette. But on the SunRace, I have real problems with 3rd gear. I can either set up cable tension so that the shift up is smooth, or the downshift is smooth. But not both.

I love having the extra easy 1st gear. But I’m thinking of going back to my 11-46.

If I just pretend I don’t have a third gear, it works quite well. I tend to go from 2nd straight to 4th now and vice versa.

I put my bike in to my lbs – the mechanic there is a total wizard. But the problem persists.

One of the wife’s bikes runs an 11 speed Sunrace 11-50 cassette faultlessly. I think the big difference is that the XT mech is running a One Up shark cage though.

If I solve it, I will let you all know.
Big some cable tuning this am and it is better ..

Shark cage – can’t find out where you would buy in the UK ?

How odd. Exact same set up as the OP and exact same problem. And it’s always been that way!

MX80 fitted when the bike was one ride old, other then the drop from 2nd to 3rd all others are perfect both up and down. I guess it’s something to do with the alloy to steel sprocket/one spider to the next change.

Odd – as the cable is only a few weeks old. Now it is a decathlon PTFE special – could that be a problem?

Not the decathalon part but did you change the outer and did you perhaps get any dirt in by accident?

I’ve worn out one of these last year. When part worn – a slight back pedal can get it to move chain. When properly knackered… (worn) chain sits too low in the tooth curve and is reluctant to shift down. A new chain does not cure, just gives lots of grumbles & rumbles.

I’m 1000 miles into a ZTTO full steel budget cassette and have just got one of their pretty posher ones (11T – 52T) for bike 2.

@mrmoofo I’ve been running the Deore 11-51 for a couple of weeks & it’s great. Got the 5100 derailleur to go with it to make sure it all works together. Great value for money.

Thanks all- didn’t change the outer as I was too lazy and some part of it runs through the frame .
It is working now – but very barrel stew specific.
Maybe time to reduce my gearing! I don’t use the 51 a lot – but it is nice to have, just is case.
Off looking at Shimano / ZTTO

That was the worst written reply ever …
Barrel screw specific …
And I don’t use the 50 cog much …

Now it is a decathlon PTFE special – could that be a problem?

Could be the new inner (and the old outer) that was the problem. Ive had issues with off-brand ptfe cables in the past, some are obviously the correct diameter steel wire, with a really thick coating that doenst slide in the outer nicely. Depends on the tolerance of the outer too I guess.

okay – work up to outer change.

Does spunking up bigger money on cables make sense – or are the all much of a muchness?

Thanks

Shimano SP41 outer with SP4 sealed end caps every time, and a decent 1.1mm slick stainless inner to go with it. We’ve had too many issues with coated inners breaking up and clogging the outers to ever consider recommending them (to the point of replacing them when cabling up some brand new bikes if they’ll be difficult to sort if problems occur later).