Will it fit and will I die?

I know all hollowtech II cranks are the same, but not sure if road and MTB are same?

Wanted an XT M8000 in 175mm but can’t find one, and 105 is £100 cheaper! MTB is used for XC type stuff, so no big jumps and DH antics. Would also swap it to my Roadrat (with a deore crankset) for turbo trainer and road rides.

Q Factor will be all wrong. I looked into this too.

Good point. Found a 175, but it was a more than the 170s that everyone seems to have in stock.

Assuming a 20mm difference in Q factor between road and MTN, the pedal on the road crank would end up 10mm inboard.
Moving the driveside 2.5mm spacer to the NDS will effectively get you 5mm (but will alter the chainline); a 2mm washer on the pedal spindle will further reduce the difference to 3mm, which might be manageable.

Me too. I saw the cheaper price and got all excited thinking all sizes were that price!
Settled on getting the Watteam Powerbeat, cheaper, but a DIY install.
What about 4iiii, slightly cheaper than Stages.

I went for the more expensive stages XT. I’ve had the cash set aside for a while, so not a big deal, just saw that 105 was a bit cheaper.

My main MTB has black XT everything (wheels, groupset, pedals, brakes), so would be a shame to put a different crank on it.

It might not clear the chainstay on a MTB. Comparing a Shimano road crank and a Shimano MTB crank, the MTB crank has a more pronounced “curve” on it to clear chunkier chainstay.

So Q factor or not, it may plain just not fit. It wouldn’t fit my Cannondale F29 for instance and I wouldn’t have thought that has especially beefy chainstays for a MTB.

Ah just read your last post Greno 😳

Wouldn’t have fitted, so you did the right thing 😉

Piesoup, how have you got on with the Watteam? Anything to compare it against?

Got the Stages PM about a week ago now.  Set up was easy other than my garmin asking me if I want to calibrate it every time I turn it on.  If I say yes it just says error then works fine anyway.  If I say no it works fine.  Guess other PM may need calibration, but not a factory calibrated one?

Been having fun with it….  If you consider Sufferfest sessions fun!

I did the FTP test, expecting and aiming to hit around 200, but to my surprise I got 260! Very happy with that.

Now if only I weighed 80kg instead of 100kg I’d be doing really well.  5 min power is way down though, so I’m going to improve on that and work extra hard to shed some weight.

Main thing It’s highlighted is that what I consider a “recovery” ride or bimble, is nowhere near slow enough.  Bit hard to do recovery rides/commutes when you live in Sheffield.

When your Garmin asks if you want to calibrate, then I assume you have the power meter crank arm at 6 o’clock and the bike upright with no feet on the pedals? Should report a figure of around 880 ish.

Its not a full calibration, just a zero offset, there’s a subtle difference. The figures can be out if the Garmin reports an error when you do this. It won’t stop it giving you power numbers but they could be wrong.