So i’ve just lost my dropper post virginity and have taken delivery of a new crank brother highline for my Next gen Slackline. As I’ve no existing cable to piggyback on does anyone have some tips on how to get the cable routed? Heard about some thread and a vacuum cleaner?.

The routing goes down the seattube then exits around the BB before entering the down tube.

Reverb?

I usually take the remote off and thread an old spoke into the hose, the spoke head gives you something that will usually pop out of the frame with a bit of jiggling.

I found the little red doohickey that comes with a reverb invaluable. Attach to a lenght of cable, in the hole at bottom of seat tube, out the top, attach to the cable for your new dropper, pull through – bassically allows you to go in the smaller hole and out the big one (steady) and then pull your new cable through.

Your down tube might be a little more fiddly – an inner cable in from the top and out from the bottom is easier than a full width cable, you can run it inside the tube, then reach in and hook it with a bent spoke or similar. Once that’s in place, you can use it to guide an outer, then us the method above again.

Depends totally on the frame tbh- it’s dead easy on some. On my trailfox it just poked through easily, on the Remedy there’s a little removable door around the cable hole that makes it really easy. Doing it in the diy-stealthed frame I have is almost impossible 😆

*coughs*…no not a reverb, they’re shite 😆

new crank brother highline

*coughs*

Next gen Slackline

I did email Dan looking for advice but hes in Japan just now so hasn’t responded.

Side point – when did stantons jump to £699 per frame!?

Ouch, makes me even more glad I just took the plunge and went for it. The 20% discount code is still valid so if you buy a headset or other stanton component with the frame you’re getting a deal.

dumbbot – Member

*coughs*…no not a reverb, they’re shite

Of course there’s no chance the Highline will be the… is it 5th? Crank Bros dropper in a row that’s complete junk.

No chance whatsoever, 5th times the charm 😀 They’re all poo anyway,

I used the old dental-floss-crimped-under-a-cable-end-cap-and-vaccuum technique.

Worked well. I tried to freestyle it at first thinking that all the tricks weren’t necessary, but just like tubeless I was wrong as wrong can be.

The cap on the cable stops the cable fraying too, which is nice.

Yeah I tried the old jam the cable in-hope for the best technique at first…and failed. I’ve succeeded having just used a similar technique of fishing gut and lead shot, and of course lots of swearing.

some seem to need the BB removed…as I found on my last Anthem…

You’ve got to ‘be’ the cable is all…

It’s in and seems to be working well with some fannying about with cable tension, but damn it was close for clearance …the Highline is 400mm total length and post is as far in the seat tube as it will go and give or take a few mm thats my pedaling position…phew!

I’m using 2×10 and the position of the remote isn’t ideal, but i’ll live with it.

Thought one of the best things about the highline was supposed to be the remote with the ball joint to enable it to swivel to find a good position?

It is, but it’s still not under the bar where your thumb really wants it to be.

It’s a new experience, I’ve only been up and down the street so i have no doubt I’ll adapt to having a dropper post and the highline solution is probably the best on the market for 2×10. And the good thing is when/if I change to 1x the remote will easily slot into place.