A quick question for the roadies out there – I might be looking for a new road frame soon. I currently ride a 2015 Specialized Roubaix in size 58cm. I sometimes feel that the reach might be slightly too long. Looking at the Specialized size guide I fall between 56cm and 58cm – my questions is if you have the option to go big or small which way should you fall?

I fall between 56cm and 58cm – my questions is if you have the option to go big or small which way should you fall?

I’d go and sit on both, see what I could do with the saddle & stem then decide.

^^ What he said. Bought a couple of cheap road bikes in on line sales and ended up with a size problem I couldn’t get comfy on.

Go to your LBs and have them fit it for you ?

I’d generally go on the small size and use a longer stem if I was between sizes. Also bear in mind one manufacturer’s 58 is different from another’s

my questions is if you have the option to go big or small which way should you fall?

Neither, I would get a frame the correct size
(For me 565 effective top tube, 130 stem. Would only ever knock 5mm off the TT and also make note of seat angle which would maybe allow 5mm of leeway)

The trend among the pro’s is to go for a smaller frame size and a larger stem. This can work but you do tend to end up with a more extreme position as the smaller frame will generally have a shorter head tube.

Personally, I like that kind of position, but if you don’t a larger frame and smaller stem may work better.

Roadbike or racing bike?

If it was road I’d go slightly big for comfort.

Racing? Whatever the sponsor provides… 🙂

I’ve got an XL Defy, at 192cm it’s a bit too long really. Should really have gone L but a bad back meant I wanted the extra length on the headtube but as a result I’ve got a 90mm stem and 70mm reach bars and it’s still about 10mm too long. It also has about 25mm layback on the seatpost (D fuse shape so can’t change it) which doesn’t help, don’t forget to bear that in mind, this is the bit I didn’t consider when comparing to my old Cube. Not the end of the world but I’ve never had a problem with bikes being too big before. So yeah, try before you buy if you can.

If you don’t know what you’re looking at on the geometry charts to compare between manufacturers and know what fits you then a proper bike fit may be money well spent.

What you should be trying to achieve is a well balanced position in terms of your weight distribution. The problem with opting for a frame that is too big for you is you may end up using an inline seatpost and a short stem; both of which may make it difficult to achieve a well balanced position.

Alot of it will also come down to your physical proportions aswell. I am tall, but have long limbs, so I find a “smaller” frame and a 140mm stem works well, otherwise I feel that there’s not enough weight on the front wheel. However, someone like Peter Sagan (who’s quite a bit shorter than me) could also achieve a well balanced position on my bike (using a shorter stem) because he’s got short limbs and a long torso.

There’s alot to be said with regards to sizing a bike around your preferred stem length. It’s as good a way as any to start. If you’re on a size 58cm then you’re probably quite tall so I’d expect you to be running at least a 120mm stem. If you’re using shorter, I’d say your bike is too big and you should go for a smaller frame, or work on your fit on your current bike; buy some cheap stems off ebay and experiment.

But, I’ve just had a look at the Roubaix geo, and all I can say is wow, just wow. Along with “the head tube is **** massive.” I’m a vastly experienced forum user, in all disciplines; this means I can tell that a bike will ride like shite just by looking at the numbers. And I can tell the Roubaix is shite. I can’t see how you’d be able to achieve a good fit on that bike. A 225mm head tube length, along with whatever headset top cap spacer they provide (20mm?) and a 6 degree stem – that’s just going to force you into an uncomfortable “upright” position. It’s not a wonder you feel the reach is too long, you’re being forced to reach because the bike has forced you to sit like you’re on a bar stool. Pefect for the sorts of people who spend half their lives sat on a bar stool, but not so good if you’re an amateur athlete chasing gold medal times….

Look at the pros; they all ride “aggressive” positions, yet they perform for hours at a time, day after day, at the peak of what is physically possible. Do you think they’re uncomfortable? Of course not; they just ride bikes that fit them….not one of these new wave “Endurance” bikes that were just marketed to enable golfers to get into cycling.

I mail ordered a bike that turned out to big it was sold as a 55 but the ETT is 578 I cant ride it even with a 60mm stem on it and I cant find a buyer for it here, its an expensive lesson.

Depends how high your bars are currently. If you can afford to have a couple of spacers under the stem of the smaller bike (or just get used to the lower bars) then get the smaller frame.

I’d always go smaller. If the bike’s too big then there’s not much you can do to make it fit.

Bear in mind that if you drop the bars they will also go forwards due to the angle of the steerer.

But, I’ve just had a look at the Roubaix geo, and all I can say is wow, just wow. Along with “the head tube is **** massive.” I’m a vastly experienced forum user, in all disciplines; this means I can tell that a bike will ride like shite just by looking at the numbers. And I can tell the Roubaix is shite. I can’t see how you’d be able to achieve a good fit on that bike. A 225mm head tube length, along with whatever headset top cap spacer they provide (20mm?) and a 6 degree stem – that’s just going to force you into an uncomfortable “upright” position. It’s not a wonder you feel the reach is too long, you’re being forced to reach because the bike has forced you to sit like you’re on a bar stool. Pefect for the sorts of people who spend half their lives sat on a bar stool, but not so good if you’re an amateur athlete chasing gold medal times….

Look at the pros; they all ride “aggressive” positions, yet they perform for hours at a time, day after day, at the peak of what is physically possible. Do you think they’re uncomfortable? Of course not; they just ride bikes that fit them….not one of these new wave “Endurance” bikes that were just marketed to enable golfers to get into cycling.

What bollocks. Endurance bikes, along with compact chainsets, SIS, carbon frames, decent brakes and saddles and all the rest are what has brought so many “born again” cyclists back to road cycling. When you’re in your 50s or 60s and still wanting to go cycling you will not be wanting a slammed race bike, unless you only ride for an hour at a time. Roubaix is one of the most popular bikes around and if you ever condescend to ride one you’ll find it fast but amazingly comfortable over long distances.

Oh, and if you really knew anything about bike fit you’d know that a more racy bike with lower bars makes you feel stretched out, not an endurance bike with higher bars. Did you really mean to write that twaddle?

You can make a smaller bike bigger (see most pro riders) but not a large bike smaller (shorter stem = twitchier handling) I’d go 56cm

davidtaylforth – an interesting new approach. First half considered advice, second half old school trolling. Not sure it works to be honest. 4/10.

Bet you love the new found forum pastime of critiquing your posts. Fun, fun, fun!

If in doubt, size down. A longer stem will put a little more weight on the front and the bike will handle better for it. Very long headtubes – and 22cm is huge – will mean that as you become more used to a position, so your options will be limited.

A stem of 120 is perfectly respectable on a bike, but going down to 80 means your frame is too big (unless you have a very small frame).

I ride a medium Defy, which has nice race geometry, with a 120 stem instead of the stock 100 (I was right between sizes). For you, i’d suggest a M/L frame as another option to the Roubaix.

The Roubaix is widely known for “COMFORT race” geometry, and I think ultimately limiting long-term. The defy is really “comfort RACE” with a different emphasis.

If in doubt, size down.

No, just get the right size, and if that means giving up on your ‘dream’ bike because you need a 57 and they only do 56 & 58 then so be it.

So to the OP go and look at companies that do 57 as a frame size.

The only time you don’t follow this rule is the situation epicyclo states – Racing? Whatever the sponsor provides…

Roubaix is one of the most popular bikes around and if you ever condescend to ride one you’ll find it fast but amazingly comfortable over long distances.

I’ve ridden one; it handled like an oil tanker.

Oh, and if you really knew anything about bike fit you’d know that a more racy bike with lower bars makes you feel stretched out, not an endurance bike with higher bars. Did you really mean to write that twaddle?

THe chap on the Bianchi is riding a bike similar to the Roubaix. Long head tube, lots of spacers. But look how stretched he is; he can’t even reach the hoods properly!

It sounds like you should go back and revist your fit before criticizing me.

But, I’ve just had a look at the Roubaix geo, and all I can say is wow, just wow. Along with “the head tube is **** massive.”

20cm for my ideal 565 TT. its to tall for me and i’m not a super elite racer, just have reasonable flexibility (160 HT, no spacers flipped (the right way) 6º stem

THe chap on the Bianchi is riding a bike similar to the Roubaix. Long head tube, lots of spacers. But look how stretched he is; he can’t even reach the hoods properly!

It sounds like you should go back and revist your fit before criticizing me.
Good effort bringing pics to the mix 😉 It’s cute

The only real way to see if a bike fits it to get on it. The rest is BS and internet idiots. Your proportions, legs, arms & torso are yours so it will impact whats good for you. If you can’t find a spec to get on then it’s a very bad/good year for them

THe chap on the Bianchi is riding a bike similar to the Roubaix. Long head tube, lots of spacers. But look how stretched he is; he can’t even reach the hoods properly!

he could easily if he bothered to stop admiring the view and chatting while nodding along. 🙄

I think he’s got his arse off the back of the saddle but don’t tell David T that….

I’m the same, between a 54 and a 56cm Specialized, so I bought a 55cm KTM.

They come in odd number sizes and suit my proportions better, maybe worth a look for you?

The only real way to see if a bike fits it to get on it. The rest is BS and internet idiots. Your proportions, legs, arms & torso are yours so it will impact whats good for you. If you can’t find a spec to get on then it’s a very bad/good year for them

“Internet idiots” 😀 I honestly think most on here could learn alot from me 😉

Although seriously; you just need to know your numbers. I’ve owned/ridden bikes from a size 56cm right up to an XL Giant TCR which is over 60cm. All were comfy; some handled better than others.

Sitting on a bike in a shop won’t tell you much.

lol so you have no idea what you want/need/fits 😉
Do you charge by the hour or minute DT?

lol so you have no idea what you want/need/fits
Do you charge by the hour or minute DT?

😀

I know exactly what fits. My point was; if you know your numbers, you can make most bikes “fit”.

What size helmet do you wear?

What size helmet do you wear?

It’s a custom size; I couldn’t find one big enough for my head.

bet it’s polished though

I’m the same, between a 54 and a 56cm Specialized, so I bought a 55cm KTM

not that simple either, as different manufacturers have different geometries and sizing standards. My road bikes vary between 52cm and 56cm claimed sizes (manufacturers sizing by seat tube), but all have a ~55cm ETT.

+1 for try them and get the decent bike shop input too.

People often start off on a longer bike due to being used to the position from MTBing then go shorter as they get used to roadie-ing. A shorter set up does encourage you to get down in the drops more but if it’s short then this will be no good too.

Try a few bikes if you can.

Good luck.

No, just get the right size, and if that means giving up on your ‘dream’ bike because you need a 57 and they only do 56 & 58 then so be it.

For the sake of an extra cm on the stem? That advice used to be true when frames came in 1cm increments and swapping stems took an age with a nice quill stem. I’m exactly between sizes for my Defy. My Propels all have longer TTs, so they have shorter stems. Modern bikes can fit a much wider range of sizes.

But a smaller frame will still handle better due to weight balance. All other things being equal of course (which they seldom are).

@davidtaylforth – are you just trolling or do you actually believe the crap you’re posting?

The Roubaix is a pretty dull bike to ride (at least my 2009 56cm version is, I imagine more recent and S-works versions are better) but it in no way handles like an oil tanker. It’s not twitchy but a decent rider won’t be much, if any, slower descending on it vs a more aggressive geometry frame.

Comparing positions with pros is retarded unless you’re racing yourself. First off pros ride their bikes a hell of a lot more than we do, they also do core strength & flexibility training – both result in them being able to get comfortable in a more extreme position than most of us could. Part of the reason they go the extra mile with core and flexibility is to get a more aero position – again something fairly pointless unless you’re racing.

As well as the Roubaix I have a medium Look 695, the geometry on paper between the two is very different but the fit of my bikes is the same (mostly through raising the 695 stem and already having a slight neg rise stem on the Roubaix). After years of just fitting my bikes on feel I had a professional bike fit a couple of years ago – the only changes resulting from it was a recommendation to move the Roubaix saddle forward 0.5cm and the 695 back 0.5cm, all the other contact points etc. were the same. The point is relatively minor saddle, seat post and stem adjustments can have a big effect so getting your knickers in a twist over a head tube size shows you clearly don’t know what you’re talking about.

are you just trolling or do you actually believe the crap you’re posting?

Of course I believe it; I live it.

THe problem is, it’s an internet forum. Most people on here don’t ride their bikes enough, and are scared to try things out for themselves. Instead, they search for an answer from the internet, or a magazine. Your next line about “core strength and flexibility” tells me you probably read bike radar or cycling plus?

Core strength to just sit and pedal a push bike? Really, if you need great core strength to do that, then I think you’re doing something wrong. I’m sure it helps the pros due to the intensity and duration of their cycling, but for the average joe? Nah! People have been riding and racing bikes for over a hundred years; were “core strength and flexibility” even words back then?

I’d say the question was correctly answered in the first reply. Surely, since you already have a 58, your first step is to try sliding your saddle forward a few mm, and/or raising the bars a touch, and/or trying a 10mm shorter stem?

You’ve got 4 parameters really, the vertical height of the saddle from the BB and the distance behind the BB, then the stack and reach.

Pick whichever frame best accommodates your measurements for these parameters without going silly long/short on the stem or needing a massive stack of spacers or a silly seat post. If neither does, then find another frame.

Also the more you ride you’ll generally end up evolving to a longer and lower position so worth giving that a bit of consideration too.

Other than that… what davidtaylforth said 🙂

Other than that… what davidtaylforth said

😀 Yikes; risky move that 😉

mrblobby’s bike is a good example though. If it looks right, it usually is. Plus, he doesn’t need a cbblegbblr seatpost since he’s not sitting on it like he’s at the bar.

That looks right but at the same time just looking at it makes my back ache. I couldn’t cope with that saddle to bar drop. Horses for courses, innit.

That looks right but at the same time just looking at it makes my back ache. I couldn’t cope with that saddle to bar drop. Horses for courses, innit.

Worth pointing out that I didn’t start with that position on a road bike. Spent a couple of years slowly evolving to it. Can ride on the drops all day in that position now, but it probably would have killed me a couple of years ago.

A good example of sizing though as I went for a M/L to get the low stack and run a 140 stem to get the reach I need. Had I gone for a L I’d not have been able to get the front as low (what with limited choice of Overdrive stem.)

We aren’t all as flexible as DT and mrB. Here’s my standard set up with the same four numbers on all my bikes

I see a lot of riders like Mr Bianchi up there, who ride with locked elbows on the hoods and bars too far away. Bar height is really about flexibility (I’m not), but reach is as important. Bringing the bars in, and sometimes up, makes it easier to ride on the drops. In races, I almost never see locked elbows.

So it is easy to be convinced that a larger frame is a better fit, but even for comfort bikes (see below) that is not always the case. Just know your measurements. I prefer saddle drop to stack and saddle nose to bars for reach as they are easier to measure accurately.

A “comfort” bike: