Removal of Raceface Cinch Cranks

Does anyone know if this tool will remove these  Raceface Cinch Cranks ??

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-crank-extractor/rp-prod10181?gs=1&pgrid=36427643173&ptaid=pla-270205234017&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE-Shopping+QLB+Generic+Desktop&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sJvzVIlW2_dc|pcrid|161850070953|pkw||pmt||prd|31719UK

These are the Raceface Cinch Cranks:

Cranks as normal

https://photos.google.com/u/1/share/AF1QipOTIKgzvAvLz_NMLbO1yYtHUSXoQ2ycxdtT7yy0JTUT5espmzD_1DUu3a7N0kpPMQ/photo/AF1QipOgj72gncoy3UcQej1QELAMwURTODApTqejR6h2?key=ak53Q0VWTXM2VmR6QlNVZXhGUEdyN0xaTzhLeVhn

Cranks with that thing removed with allen key: About as much as you can do with an allen key:

https://photos.google.com/u/1/share/AF1QipOTIKgzvAvLz_NMLbO1yYtHUSXoQ2ycxdtT7yy0JTUT5espmzD_1DUu3a7N0kpPMQ/photo/AF1QipOdMtCFtlWJRegAvLCEok-prxdIpg9yQ1T_7al-?key=ak53Q0VWTXM2VmR6QlNVZXhGUEdyN0xaTzhLeVhn

If this is not the correct tool could anyone provide a link to the tool that I need please ? Preferrably one that allows delivery to the UK, as I live in the UK.

6mm Allen key is the correct tool – cranks are self extractors. The outer nut (8mm) stays in place – you undo the inner one with a 6mm which pushes against the outer. Really hard to undo sometimes but should come off with a bit of force. Plenty of YouTube vids show the procedure.

Not sure how they’d come off without using the correct method.

i may have got my Allen key sizes mixed , could be a 8 to undo the inside bolt.

sorry, that is the best one I can find on my phone, my kid has nicked my iPad!

skip to about 2:30 in the vid. There are better ones on YouTube !

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/raceface-aeffect-cranks-which-tool-to-remove/

6mm Allen key is the correct tool – cranks are self extractors. The outer nut (8mm) stays in place – you undo the inner one with a 6mm which pushes against the outer. Really hard to undo sometimes but should come off with a bit of force. Plenty of YouTube vids show the procedure.

Not sure how they’d come off without using the correct method.

There is nowhere for an 6mm allen key to go.

The most you can do with an allen key is remove that outer nut with the 8mm allen key.

I have been told by a few people that I need a crank extractor tool. Just need to order the right one.

What I’m trying to do is work out how to remove the cranks so that I can change the chain ring – then eventually be able to change the bottom bracket – but I’m nowhere near that far yet.

I have been told by a few people that I need a crank extractor tool. Just need to order the right one.

Need the mushroom top on the extractor tool

https://www.jejamescycles.com/bbb-powerpull-crank-puller-btl14-99990875.html

I’d read through the thread from this post as a detailed explanation has already been provided three months ago:

https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/how-do-you-remove-these-raceface-cinch-cranks/

Also: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-crank-extractor/rp-prod10181?gs=1&pgrid=36427643173&ptaid=pla-270205234017&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE-Shopping+QLB+Generic+Desktop&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid&utm_source=awin&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=Skimlinks&awc=2698_1520974283_fbc36dd6b8cbaffc5818e8524f20e319

So what I need to order are these two ?

https://www.jejamescycles.com/bbb-powerpull-crank-puller-btl14-99990875.html

Plus

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/x-tools-crank-extractor/rp-prod10181?gs=1&pgrid=36427643173&ptaid=pla-270205234017&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Chain+Reaction-UK-PLA-PLA-All-DT-SE-Shopping+QLB+Generic+Desktop&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid&utm_source=awin&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=Skimlinks&awc=2698_1520974283_fbc36dd6b8cbaffc5818e8524f20e319

I’m confused.

Yesterday I removed and refitted a cinch turbine with just an Allen key and a torque wrench (optional.)

On my Cranks, the furthest you can possibly get with an Allen Key is removing the Outer nut

Pretty sure its:

Affect is 24mm spindle and you need the extractor tool.

Turbine/Next SL/SixC are 30mm spindle and are removed with just an 8mm hex key.

Apologies -yeah, on my phone i couldn’t see that it was a crank bolt style.

RF Cinch is obviously not the type of crank, but the type of spider. As fathomer says, different Cinch crank models use different removal methods.

just the one i linked to

OK thanks I’ll get the one with the Mushroom top ordered then

Have you got the tool to remove the chainring?

No which tool do I need for this ?

Shimano Isis BB tool to remove the cinch lock ring. I got one for £3.25 on ebay

I pulled my Aeffect cranks with this:

https://www.parktool.com/product/crank-puller-for-splined-cranks-ccp-44

Then used a Shimano BB tool (icetoolz one I think) to remove the cinch ring from the crank.

Thanks for the help I managed to remove my Raceface Cinch Cranks with the new tool.

However, I’m now trying to do the same on my other bike to replace a worn out chain ring.

This bike has Raceface Aeffect cranks, is the proceedure the same as it is with the Raceface Cinch?

This is a picture of these cranks ???

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPVcHA8Tlz2LFVeI8dVPlhpVXMXXSkqwVanr0ajEbgpbOSBZwmGoQusigAaCoN_Dg/photo/AF1QipMNI7mTGkoGP47dOUJKtkO9SzXTCQsa4EfTohdF?key=MmJ3c180WUNGWmozRFBqTkhVTzJwTDhjSkVONUF3

I’ve tried to undo it with the allen key but it won’t move on this bike! I’m pulling as hard as I can and it won’t move. I’m worried about applying even more torque as it may damage it. Is the procedure just the same, and do I just need more torque ???

It is not uncommon for them to be massively over tightened, you might struggle with a normal 8mm allen key.

Position yourself so if it slips/comes loose suddenly you dont hurt yourself. Bigger lever makes life easier, I use a 8mm bit on a 600mm/2ft breaker bar on tight ones, bigger bar on really tight ones, impact gun can be handy if used with care. An old handlebar or seapost can give you extra leverage (not a recommended procedure, but effective if used with care)

8MM hex is all you need to remove the cranks. They are on super tight but nothing a tap on the hex key with a hammer doesn’t sort.

I got it off in the end but had to apply a lot of torque. The only issue I had was I was worried about damaging the bike by applying too much torque, but I got it off in the end.

Now I am wondering when it comes to Chainring and Crank installation, it requires a force of 40 Newton metres to tighten them both. However my torque wrench only goes up to 24 NM. Do I need to buy another torque wrench ? Or is it just a case of “pull as hard as you can” ? Is there a real risk of damage through over tightening the cranks ?

IME Race Face cranks need to be scarily tight otherwise they can loosen and ultimately damage the drive side spline interface.

I wouldn’t worry too much, just slide an old seatpost over the end of the allen key and go for broke.  The spline/crank interface will take the load, if the cranks turn freely without resistance then you’re golden.

I’ve decided to order a Torque Wrench that is capable of 50 NM, I’ve got no experience in torquing cranks so I’m almost certain I’d get it wrong without using the appropriate Torque Wrench.

Plus, it’s a Carbon Frame, if that makes any difference? Cranks are aluminium

This job is starting to require a lot more tools than I thought

Already had to purchase:

Crank Puller

Chain Ring Adaptor Tool

A Vice

1/2″ 50 NM Torque Wrench

Torque Wrench 1/2″ Hex Sockets

That’s without even mentioning the Chain Ring itself !

Okay I managed to complete the job a few weeks ago and put a new Drive train on.

When you put that spacer back on, on the Drive side, it has a red ring on one side. Which side should that red ring be facing ?? (i.e. Should it be facing the Frame, or away from it?)

I’ve tried searching the Web and found no answers!

Aeffect needs the crank extractor (or just undo the nut and bash it off with a rubber mallet, if you’re not mechanically sympathetic)

Turbine and others are self extracting

Red ring towards the frame.

http://www.raceface.com/media/B10187-B-Aeffect_Cinch_Installation-Web.pdf

Aeffect cranks with 24mm spindle do not require a crank extractor, 8mm hex/allen key and a dead blow hammer ( for non drive side ) is all I’ve needed to remove mine, the do have to be VERY tight or they work loose pretty easily so might take some force to loosen if it’s the 1st time they’ve been off the frame

pothead, that’s a bad idea, your essentially relying on the bearings to push the crank arm off. Sounds like a great way to **** your bearings up. A crank extractor is cheap and works much better.

Adjustable spanner on a crank puller is all I’ve used. Doddle of a job. Hardest bit is putting on/taking off the square taper/ISIS adaptor collar.

nixie, I’m gonna guess the cranks ( 2016 aeffect direct mount ) on my Mondraker have the self extracting outer cap and that not all aeffect cranks come with it. There is an 8mm inner bolt which threads into the inside of the 24mm spindle and a 10mm outer cap, when the inner bolt is loosened it pushes the drive side off the spindle by pushing against the rear of the outer cap, the non drive side then needs a little tap with the dead blow hammer to release it, and can then be removed easily by hand. I’ve had Sram GXP cranks which were removed in exactly the same way

Yeap sounds like you do. Mine don’t have that so have to use a crank extractor. I do have a spare one from an old x type crank though. Hmm

Worth a try, totally off topic but have you by any chance tried to fit crank boots ? I’ve tried a few raceface ones and the hole centre of the boot doesn’t line up with the pedal insert on the crank,  eventually gave up after repeatedly being told by silverfish that I wasn’t fitting them correctly