Question for wheel builders. Hurry up and help you geeks.

Rebuilding a wheel with new dt 5.1d rim and hope pro 2 rear. Done the dt spoke calculator bit and it says I need 259's with 14mm nips. 3 intersection. Measuring old spokes from the same original set up but with 12mm nips and most are 260. One is 261 and 9 are 259. Is this just down to a shonky build. CRC only sell 258 or 260 but with 14mm nips. Do I get 258's because they come with 14mm nips or just go with 260's. Do spokes stretch much. Could they all have been 258 or 259. Discuss. And show your workings. ❓

260 sounds ok. a mm each way is usually no problem.

I got both but I think the 260's will be fine for all in hindsight 🙂 a few mms don't matter that much really as long as they are not way too short if you know what I mean 😉

Even though I will be gaining 2mm with the larger nipple size? Ooh er.

built the exact same wheelset about 5 months ago. got 258 and 260 set but I don't think I noticed much of a difference int eh end and I got the 14mm nipples I think as well. I'll check what I ordered off CRC….

DT Swiss EX 5.1 XC-FR Disc Rim – 32h Black 26inch Presta
DT Swiss EX 5.1 XC-FR Disc Rim – 32h Black 26inch Presta
DT Swiss Competition Stainless DB Spokes – Black 2mm-1.8mm Set of 36 & Nipples
DT Swiss Competition Stainless DB Spokes – Black 2mm-1.8mm Set of 36 & Nipples

Oh CRC chose the spokes for me but I suggested 258 and 260 and I think thats what I got sent IIRC?

Just checked my email

The spokes I found out were 258 and 260mm (pack of each) for the 14mm nipples

according to your email, DT suggest 259 with 14mm. You'd only be 1mm up, which should be fine.

**** knows how the original spokes ended up at different lengths though, buit it could be 'oops out of 259s we've got a few 261s in stock though' or it could be a nasty stretch – TBH I don't know how much you can get, but 2mm sounds like a long way.

I've built quite a few wheels in my time but have no proper training so it's all a bit 'seat of the pants', I am doing the proper DT swiss training (as part of cytech training) this autumn, ask me then, I'll be full of unrealistic answers 🙂

Thanks peeps, 260 it is then. Are the nipples any good. Brass or aluminum. Ive never heard of that rim foxy. The only one on there I can see is the 5.1D

its the 5.1D 😉 Nipples good and brass.

Great. Just one more thing, would it not be better to go 1mm shorter than 1mm longer seeing that the nips will be 2mm longer. Could running out of thread happen or am I over complicating matters.

there is a small amount inside the nipples which dont have any thread on it so I wouldn't have though its a problem! i.e. thread doesn't go all the up inside the nipple IIRC. Def go for the 1mm longer IMHO 🙂

you get more threads on the spoke, so it could be stronger with a longer nipple[1]

I've been impressed by the DT rims, they seem strong, light and oddly enough, well priced[2]

[1]fnarrr
[2]this is theoretically impossible

Purchased. Cheers all. Now back to Sheldon Browns. 😉

kneels. Sheldon is god. /kneels

Ooh one more thing. Lube the nipples yes but I hear people mentioning thread lock. Is this wise.

I was reading somewhere that advised linseed oil on the grounds that it lubes while you're building the wheel, then sets. I like the idea, mainly because it smells nice.

I usually GT85 the nipples, then use spokelock after the build is complete

I take it spoke lock goes down the hole at the top of the nipple inside the rim.

I didn't bother with spoke lock – just oiled the nipples but each to their own 🙂

I just oil them with something light (GT85 for example..) If you build them tight the small amount of leftover lubricant shouldn't make a difference (and hasn't on my wheels).

I think i remember R.Musson (check out his Wheelpro guide, will answer all your questions above, £9 well spent) suggesting just to use oil, as a well built wheel doesn't need threadlock.

Are you building them now Swedey or am I still doing it?

as a well built wheel doesn't need threadlock.

Not always, heavily dished hubs, light spokes or few of them can mean threadlock is a good idea, but only on the NDS. Grease other spoke threads and oil all nipple/ferrules so you can get good even tension and minimise twist.

I personally would err on the side of slightly shorter spoke length as you could quite easily run out of thread and start winding the non threaded part of the spoke into the thread in the nipple damaging it. If your spokes are 2mm longer than the calculated length this could start happening but please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong… 😀

I use Duck oil to lubricate the spoke threads and eyelets, only cos thats what I've got… 🙂

I always round spoke lengths up to the nearest even number. Go short and you may end up with thread poking out of your, ahem, nipples (snigger… sorry). Apart from anything else that's a crap look. 1mm or so either way won't have any effect.

And if you build the wheel properly you won't need thread lock, linseed oil or any of that crap, just use a bit of ordinary lube oil and lace it up nice and tight, right to the point where you think the nipples won't take any more is about right.

Do you squeeze the oil out of a live duck or just a fresh one. Does the duck give its oil easily or does it need gentle persuation / fingering. Will a mallard be ok for this build.

As mike p says really…

You'll have around 4mm difference between the thread showing and too far in on 12mm nipples and around 5mm on 14mm nips so rounding up or down to the nearest even length available. I'd probably would have gone for the 258's with the 14mm nipples but I'm sure you'll be fine with the 260's…

Not sure about fowl fingering as it came pre extracted in a nice shiny tin but apparently (so I've been told) mallards are tight fe*kers and may need felatio and probable cuddling and a little small talk afterwards… 😀

well thanks for the help chaps. Spokes on drive side too long by ur, about 2mm i guess. Fail. Start again. 258's required with 14mm nips. To be fair the new spokes actually measured 261 so that has'nt helped.

Nothing to say for your selves eh. I hope you all feel very stupid indeed. Pulls spoke key out of plaster board and retrieves wheel from neighbours hedge 🙁

Stop whinging you fag.

Hi Swede, I did the same build last week, 135mm Pro II rear hub, 5.1DT rim, 58mm Comp spokes drive side, 60mm Comp spokes offside, and 14mm spokes on a x3 coss, all from CRC, worked great. Not even any slightly too short or long So it should work!! A Hope Hoop would be 61mm and 59mm but with 12mm nips

Sends spoke key skipping across pond. (It belongs to Ayatollahofniche). You are calling me a fag. Quote " nipples make ney difference " you sir are a purveyor and demonstrator of the curious gentlemans electrical anal pleasurers and lubricants. And that is a fact.