Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 85 total)
  • Nice Cranks – What Options?
  • tomhoward
    Full Member

    They mean you don’t need to change crank if you swap between Boost, non boost or super boost frames, as its all done by the offset in the chainring (SRAM 3 bolt anyway) so you only change that.

    jameso
    Full Member

    Is worth consideration but I put even greater value on a nice readily available direct mount chainring standard.

    Is new XTR / XT direct mount option well-supported? I haven’t looked but had been wondering if XTs with an AM spider might be the next set of cranks I’d buy. Hoped it’d become better supported than previous XTR-specific ring BCDs anyway.
    I agree, being able to get new spiders or direct mount rings is a good thing. One of the reasons I got the Middleburns a while back.

    davros
    Free Member

    Oneup’s spider system works well for Shimano 12 speed and means replacement rings cost a little less. But only works with oneup rings.

    DanW
    Free Member

    Actofive as another option?

    SIGNATURE CRANKSET MTB

    Rotor?

    Hollowgrams?

    Leonardi Capo?

    Boone for something really unusual?
    Boone Twist! V2.0 Machined Aluminum Bike Cranks

    For me it is always hard to see past SRAM carbon cranks. Can be had pretty cheaply depending on the axle type required, lighter than almost anything and hassle free.

    tomhoward
    Full Member

    For me it is always hard to see past SRAM carbon cranks. Can be had pretty cheaply depending on the axle type required, lighter than almost anything and hassle free

    Here’s the ‘almost anything’ in carbon. 299g, but €1300. https://bikerumor.com/thms-new-299g-clavicula-xc-mountain-bike-cranks-222g-1-piece-road-cockpit-ultralight-schmolke-bars/

    Useless for the OP though, 170mm minimum.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    Rubber_Buccaneer
    Full Member

    I don’t doubt they are but when making these statement shouldn’t you quote your own personal specs? Like, what do you weigh? Dripping wet?

    Well yep, I weigh 10 stone but since I bought ’em all used they’ve probably also been tested by heavier people 🙂

    jameso
    Full Member

    Oneup’s spider system works well for Shimano 12 speed and means replacement rings cost a little less. But only works with oneup rings.

    Not what I’m after personally but it’s a good system, I like how it allows fast ring swaps.

    monkeyboyjc
    Full Member

    How about some light weight steel cranks?

    Check Out Cyber Cranks!

    jameso
    Full Member

    Daft name and the Q is a touch on the wide side (narrower for shorter versions?) but if these are welded straight the spec looks great,

    Integrated HT2 24mm spindle
    68mm and 73mm bottom brackets
    SRAM 3-bolt direct mount
    Optional 110mm or 104mm spider
    8mm allen key to assemble and extract
    Spring-loaded bearings
    465g incl. all hardware
    Q-Factor: 174mm (length 175mm)
    Custom lengths between 160-190mm

    CYBER CRANKS 175mm raw: 450€
    Custom Spider BCD 110mm: 55€
    Custom Length: +25€
    Powder coat white, black, silver: +25€

    Pricey but not bonkers if the quality is there.

    monkeyboyjc
    Full Member

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    Hope EVO’s are good – get them in silver so they dont scuff (paint should never be applied to cranks!)

    eewings look great but I could not justify them if they were half the price.

    Shimano have always done the best cranks for me. The old silver XT cranks basically last forever looking brand new. they are super lightweight and cheap (dont know why other brands do not use Hollow forge technique – copyright?)
    Unfortunately the latest shimano cranks all come with paint on (even xtr). I wanted the direct mount chainring option so I bought a second hand set of black M8100 cranks with minor scuffing for next to nothing. Applied caustic soda to remove the paint and now have a very fancy set of cranks. I may polish them but they are quite shiny already.

    ta11pau1
    Full Member

    I wanted the direct mount chainring option so I bought a second hand set of black M8100 cranks with minor scuffing for next to nothing. Applied caustic soda to remove the paint and now have a very fancy set of cranks. I may polish them but they are quite shiny already.

    We need pics of that!

    appltn
    Full Member

    I wanted the direct mount chainring option so I bought a second hand set of black M8100 cranks with minor scuffing for next to nothing. Applied caustic soda to remove the paint and now have a very fancy set of cranks. I may polish them but they are quite shiny already.

    We need pics of that!

    Yes, pictures please!

    I have a very boring set of GX alloy cranks which I’d like to do the same to. Does the caustic soda dissolve the anodising and then you just wipe it off or did you need to spend time sanding it? I reckon I’d go for a wire wool finish if it do it myself.

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    I’ll sort out pics tonight

    the caustic soda does a grand job of removing anodizing
    I use warm water to kick start the reaction – then its self heating
    I find the best way is to dunk for 30 seconds then use a metal scouring pad to remove the stubbern bits (not as abrasive as wire wool but that might work). I find about 4 cycles of this is usually enough.

    With the XT cranks I covered the interfaces with melted candle wax to protect them (pedal threads, chain ring and axle interface etc ). that might also not have been necessary but better safe than sorry.

    ta11pau1
    Full Member

    Hmmm, I have a buggered drive side XT crank (bent pedal threads after a mammoth pedal strike) which I could use as a test crank… 🤔😁

    honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    ndthornton

    Hope EVO’s are good – get them in silver so they dont scuff (paint should never be applied to cranks!)

    The way that the coloured Hopes are machined effectively pre-scuffs them, my black ones look good as new, all the rub happens on bits that are already raw

    jameso
    Full Member

    I have a very boring set of GX alloy cranks which I’d like to do the same to. Does the caustic soda dissolve the anodising and then you just wipe it off or did you need to spend time sanding it? I reckon I’d go for a wire wool finish if it do it myself.

    Yes, caustic soda and a polishing wheel on a drill after scrubbing the bulk of the ano off. I did some old XTs ages ago. They look great for a short while then the oxidisation dulls them. Winter road salt and cowshit eats into the Al. Some appeal to the scrubbed look though. This was the sort of thing that promised good looks and delivered much less after some use ..
    jones XTR crank

    ta11pau1
    Full Member

    That looks awesome 😎 but how do they look after a winter of use? Would keeping them as a brushed finish rather than polished help?

    singlespeedstu
    Full Member

    @jameso

    You look just like JJ in the reflection on your crank arm.😏

    jameso
    Full Member

    I think whatever you do to some extent they’ll just look like raw Al that’s been scrubbed with wire wool then oxidised and marked by dirt and all the crap on the trail. Which isn’t the worst look, I’ve seen new ‘anodised bling’ stuff that looks worse tbh

    jameso
    Full Member

    You look just like JJ in the reflection on your crank arm.😏

    Steady on..

    : )

    Just meant that Jeff’s XTRs prompted a lot of crank polishing back then. They certainly aren’t old XTs / mine!

    singlespeedstu
    Full Member

    I know mate we’ve all been there polishing our old XT cranks because of Jeff.😎

    Love the look of those steel cranks up there.
    They’d look great on my raw steel Marino.
    But suspect they rust just as badly.

    bedmaker
    Full Member

    I do like the look of those steel cranks up there.
    To answer the OP, I’m a big fan of middleburns. I’ve got a few sets, with no issues over the years. The look of them is hard to beat.
    The direct mount ring issue is a bummer, I wish they would do the sensible thing and tweak it to take the race face standard. I use spiders on mine.
    I’m selling a set of black 165s as it happens….
    I recently got a new bike with the option of EEwings at a slightly less bonkers price than rrp, I couldn’t say no🙂
    Deffo a heart over head purchase, but they are truly lush. They’ve just had a week of smashing into Alpujarran rock as a first outing, so are looking distinctly used now.

    ndthornton
    Free Member
    appltn
    Full Member

    Xt cranks, stripped not polished

    I really like this finish as it is, I wonder if I could do this and then apply some kind of clear coat / lacquer to keep them this way.

    ta11pau1
    Full Member

    I think they need to be polished to look really nice, I’ll stick with my XT’s as they are – tbh if I get a power meter one for the non-driveside it’d look a bit strange anyway!

    appltn
    Full Member

    Things over here have escalated quickly. First I found some oven cleaner under the sink, then I decided to do a spot test and see if it would do the job.

    Which it did, so…

    I’ll let you know how bad they look in about 15 minutes.

    honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    I’m maybe suggest not putting it on the axle or the axle/crank interface

    appltn
    Full Member

    Hard to see in the photo but I’ve wrapped the axle and interfaces all up in clear gorilla tape.

    ta11pau1
    Full Member

    It’s been taped off, although you can already seen the anodising being worn off on the spindle by the bottom bracket.

    appltn
    Full Member

    Looking good so far, I’ll get them with the scotchbrite this evening to clean them up and take off the apparently painted bits.

    LAT
    Full Member

    Race Face have just released a new version of the turbines.

    Engin Cycles Port Royal are expensive and uncommon.

    Middleburn are shiny and probably in stock.

    a11y
    Full Member

    Xt cranks, stripped not polished

    I really like this finish as it is, I wonder if I could do this and then apply some kind of clear coat / lacquer to keep them this way.

    I imagine any clear coat or lacquer will very quickly wear off from foot rub. What about acid etching stripped alu cranks to stop the oxiding?

    I explored similar when deciding what to do with the finish on my 2 x raw alu frame. I’ve acid etched one of them, while the other/newer frame I simply protected with a few layers of carnuba wax. Both holding up well so I assume it’d also provide a longer-lasting decent finish on raw alu cranks. Issue I had was sweat drips staining the frame previously – 9 months later it’s still looking as good as when I did it barring usual riding scars.

    I describe what I did about halfway down this thread, although the photo link is now fubared so here it is below: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/cleaning-up-raw-aluminium-how-and-with-what/

    I’m tempted to strip and acid etch the scuffed SLX cranks on this bike:

    Acid etched

    honourablegeorge
    Full Member

    That oven cleaner did an impressive job, I might try it on some oil slick saddle rails now the novelty has worn off

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    You don’t need lacquer
    The cranks in the pic have been sat there fot weeks like that. The oxide layer is barely noticeable and protects. I have been running a set of stripped one-up pedals and my liteville 301 frame is just bare aluminium…10 years old and looks like new

    configuration
    Free Member

    I have the Hope Evo cranks with a Hope BB, and they’ve been fine for a couple of years now. Very well made indeed, better than anything that’s comparable in price. They may have a slight weight penalty over some some other cranks, but I’ll take that for Hope’s legendary quality and service. Seen enough modern Shimano cranks snapped or otherwise failed. Plus you can fit various spiders to accept different bolt patterns, or fit direct mount chainrings. So very versatile.

    appltn
    Full Member

    Phwoarrr

    Really couldn’t be happier with how these came out.

    I’ll give them a go with no extra finish on top and see how they fare.

    ta11pau1
    Full Member

    Nice! Was that just finished off with a scotchbrite pad? They’ve come up very nice.

    configuration
    Free Member

    A word about stripping anodising; the anodising actually prevents oxidisation of the surface of the aluminium, so if that is stripped off, the untreated surface will naturally oxidise, leaving a dull surface. So if you want shiny, you’ll either have to keep polishing, or get it re-anodised.

Viewing 40 posts - 41 through 80 (of 85 total)

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