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Monster Cross build… check my work
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nametaken137Free Member
Hi all,
I recently bought a dirt cheap hybrid bike to do my first conversion on and wanted some input before I start purchasing all the parts. I will also keep this forum open to post my build progress so you can see the transformation.
I am starting off with a Carrera Prava LTD (https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/hybrid-bikes/carrera-parva-mens-hybrid-bike-black) and intend to transform it into a monster cross bike for commuting.
Current specs:
- Frame: Aluminium
- Forks: Aluminium
- Gears: 21 speed Shimano Tourney
- Brakes: Tektro Alloy V-Brakes
- Wheels: Larger 27.5″ wheels 1.95″ width
- Handlebars: 62cm width 31.8mm OD
Parts I intend to replace:
- Handlebars: 44cm width 31.8mm OD Zipp Service Course-70 Ergo Drop Handlebars (https://bit.ly/2xR0Ab3)
- Gear levers: Shimano Tourney ST-A073 7-Speed Triple STI Lever Set (https://bit.ly/2zJIBF4)
- Brakes: Problem solver travel agent (https://bit.ly/2OqdWoh) x2
The travel adjusters will mean I won’t have to buy new brakes. Although, if anyone can recommend new brakes that will work with this setup, please do! I had a thought that these might work but I am unsure… (http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tektro-r559-extra-long-drop-brake-caliper-set/)
Let me know your comments!
Joshua
joemmoFree MemberFun project – here are some thoughts in no particular order.
You could get cheaper and more suitable bars IMHO. Planet-x have a Selcof flared drop for £15 for example
Are you sure the STI levers will work with the front mech? Need to check as the cable pull for flat bar mechs is often different.
If you have to buy new drop bar levers could you get a 9 speed set, fit a 9 speed freewheel and go for a 1×9 setup? For a commuter bike like this it would be ideal.
TrailriderJimFree MemberBetter (and cheaper) still, just buy some bar ends. Don’t get why drops beat narrow flats with ends. Especially for off road riding.
cynic-alFree MemberWhat joe said. Flared drops are better off road, if that’s where you might ride it.
And flats and drops are a world apart.
nametaken137Free MemberJoe, thanks for the recommendation on the cheaper drop handles. Looks like a much better option…
I know that the cable tension for the new brake levers will be much different for drop, but the travel agents will sort that out from what research I have done. Not sure on the effects of using this lever set with the 7-speed shifter. Good spot, from the research I’ve just done it looks like it isn’t compatible.
This likely means that I’ll have to buy 9-speed levers and a 9-speed freewheel + derailleur instead right? Any recommendations? The benefit to this is the levers are cheaper for 9 speed and like you said it will give me more options to cycle when I commute. Really great catch!
nametaken137Free Member@TrailriderJim I mainly want to do the work for the fun of the project and to learn more about conversions and bike mechanics. Also, I think the final result will be a lot of fun to ride and have.
<div class=”bbp-author-role”></div>scaredypantsFull Memberyou’ll want the bike as it is (with flat bars) to feel a bit too short, otherwise you’ll be overstretched when you fit drops
joemmoFree MemberYes I was going to say you might need a different length stem. You shouldn’t need a different rear mech though, 7,8 & 9 speed are compatible.
nametaken137Free Memberthanks for your comments, everyone. ill measure it all tomorrow and find an appropriate stem. might it be easier to get a 7 speed road bike derailleur ?
epicycloFull Memberscaredypants
you’ll want the bike as it is (with flat bars) to feel a bit too short, otherwise you’ll be overstretched when you fit drops
Or you could fit a shorter stem…
I never consider a handlebar on its own. It’s always as a bar and stem combo.
Basically if you have a riding position that is comfortable now, then if you can replicate the distance from your seatpost to the middle of your favoured hand position with another bar and stem, you are going to be close. Then the consideration is the angle of the handgrips which is entirely a personal choice like saddles.
Trailrider Jim above raises the question of drops versus flat bars with bar ends. It’s a fair point because if you have a good bar end position, you’ll probably find that you’ll end up with the drop portion of a dropbar in exactly the same position, so why use more metal to achieve it?
I would do it because in the drops I do not have to move my hands to reach the brakes, and because being hooked into a drop feels more secure to me than a bar end. (I don’t use the top of the bar, just the drop or the hoods, but others may vary).
joemmoFree MemberYou can use any Shimano 7/8/9 speed rear derailleur with any 7/8/9 shifters MTB or road. 10 speed road will also work with these but not 10 speed MTB. The number of sprockets on the freewheel has to match the shifter of course.. and you need the right chain.
Also factor in to your cost:
– New cables – they might not be long enough for drop bars but could be ok.
This website is straight outta the 90s bit has lots of useful info..
– Handlebar tape.
– mini v brakes if the converters don’t work well
Best to wait until you can sit on the bike with bars and levers on before you decide on how long the stem needs to be.
nametaken137Free MemberGreat to hear that the lever, brake and mech combos work joemmo. The levers luckily come with cables so I can fit those. The website is incredibly helpful and absolutely straight out of the 90’s! I’ll be looking into tape much later in the build process and am open to recommendations again.
I have been thinking more about the brakes and the converters. Because I want to get a set of mudguards at some point i am going to need a lot more clearance than the current brake set allows. I am looking for a set of mini brakes instead that provide this and will be compatible with the dropbars. What do you think?
Thanks everyone for your help so far!
scaredypantsFull MemberOr you could fit a shorter stem…
I never consider a handlebar on its own. It’s always as a bar and stem combo.
hmmm, original stem doesn’t look all that long to me so you’d be going pretty damn short to compensate and “road” bikes feel like shite with really short stems IME
nametaken137Free MemberUPDATE:
So the build has gone very well so far. brakes have been correctly adjusted and travel agents have been fitted. The rear gears are all changing well enough (some very small tweaks left). I did buy a new stem, thank you for that recommendation.
Only issue left to sort is the front mech. I did need a new piece in the end. I bought this one today and have had a play trying to fit it. However, I am now doubting whether I bought the right one. I can get it change up and down two gears but never three.
nametaken137Free MemberUPDATE:
So after some issues with the front mech the bike is finished!
Unfortunately, there is only one front mech for gear set I had on the bike and the mech needed to be positioned exactly where there was a bolt on point. My workaround was to file it down and reattach mech, which worked out well enough.
Here it is all finished and ready for a bikepacking adventure.
Thanks for all your help in end!
rOcKeTdOgFull Membermonster cross you say, I say gargantuan gravel
View this post on InstagramA post shared by Low Speed Adventurer (@rocketdoguk) on
epicycloFull Membereddiebaby
Still not got that pic posting sorted?I was curious too, so I extracted the pic.
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