“Jones” handlebars (or similar)…

Anyone on here using Jones H-bars?
Or similar?

Owing to ongoing wrist problems, I thought I’d try some handlebars with a greater amount of sweep.
I bought some On-One OG handlebars whilst they were on offer (a £10 experiment). These have a 25 degree back-sweep and I’m really liking them, although I would like them to be a bit wider. I’m wondering if I’d get on with the full-on Jones bar with 45 degree back-sweep and 710mm width?

These will be used on my longer-ride, steel hardtail.
Couple of questions:
If using Jones ‘bars, do I need to run a longer stem?
If using these ‘bars and buying a new frame, would you go for a reach figure that is slightly longer, or slightly shorter than your standard?

Thanks in advance!

I’ve done the same thing with the £10 On one OG as a trial, and also think wider would be better. Think I’m going to get some of the On One Geoff bars rather than forking out for the Jones.

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/HBOOGBV2/on-one-geoff-handlebar £30 720mm width

long time jones user here.
i never fitted a longer stem to any bike. i use a 80mm stem all the time. where i grip wide flats is kinda like where i grip my jones bars.
and bike wise, never ever thought about bike reach. when you put jones bars on top of flats or risers, the grip point is kinda the same.
it is the hand position releasing stress through the wrists and forearms which is the winner for me.

i also run a pair of ritchey kyote bars. less sweep, but so very comfy.

I have Ritchie Kyote bars.  They don’t need a longer stem as they go forward before sweeping back.  Very comfy but not so good for technical riding

As @ton. I laid my Jones Loops over my previous bars and the hand positions were almost identical so I didn’t change stem length

compare bars here.

https://whatbars.com/

I’ve got Ritchey Kyote on my gravel and commuter bikes. I run them with bar ends in the middle to give me a tucked position if I find myself with a headwind.

I cut them down from 800mm to 740mm since I just never used the full width.

I like them but I do wonder if 35deg sweep might be more comfortable than the 25deg.

I have OGs on one bike, and (first gen) Geoffs on the other. Run on the same bike, I’ve found I need a higher rise stem for the Geoffs due to the lack of rise compared to the OGs. As a guide, I use a 30 degree rise stem the same length as the one it replaced, bringing the clamp up and back a bit. I like both bars but they’re a different ride experience.

another long time jones looper here.

i actually did initially run the bars with a 110mm stem but quickly realised i was only using the very end of the bars in that set up. then switched to 45mm stem and surprise surprise, the bars usage opened up!

one other thing that maybe many folk don’t try is to run the bars upside down – so the loop curves slightly downward rather than upwards. it also helped me massively finding that ultra comfortable wrist / hand position.

As zinaru said above regarding upside down I used to run my Mary bars upside-down and they were much more comfortable
And I’ve kept same stem on my jones bars too

Wasn’t aware of the Jones bars with the rise – very interested in those.
A possible alternative is the new version of the Velo Orange Crazy bar, which now has 1.5″ of rise:

https://freshtripe.co.uk/velo-orange-crazy-bar/

Not tried a Jones bar but do have a Stooge Moto bar, 38mm rise and 17 degree sweep running on a 50mm stem. I cut them to 780mm however will eventually replace with 800mm. Leaving that aside they are comfortable…

Another Kyote user here. On a SolarisMax which is long and definitely don’t need more than a 35mm stem. As TJ said, not great for tech, but preferable to drop bars at least.

Geoff bar user here. Really like them. Experiment with angling the bars down (seem to recall Jones have a set up guide on their website). Running a 50mm stem. Had thought I should to 60mm, but after reading comments above maybe not..

Something that might have an effect on your choice of stem length is where you choose to fit your controls. The section of bar between the welded loop join and the open end is pretty long. If you fit normal grips, your controls will be quite far out – and therefore quite far back. If you fit your controls up near the welded join, they’ll be further in, but also further forward. I always had mine further forward.

I think I have some of those Goeff Bars delivered maybe years ago with an OO 29er and never used.

Stanley, if they are right for you they are yours for free. Send me your email at kryton57 at sky dot com and I’ll send pics in the morning.

Hi,
Thanks for all of these really helpful replies. I’d forgotten about the “Whatbars” website… brilliant tool.
So it seems the consensus is to run a regular length stem but, possibly, with more rise so that the ‘bars can be angled down a bit. Makes sense.
Those Ritchey ‘bars look good, particularly if I decided I didn’t need the full loop.

@Kryton… I’ll email now. Thanks for the generous offer.

I took a couple of pics out this morning. With the levers just behind the weld, they sit in roughly the same place relative to the stem as with more normal bars. The grips are a drop bar foam sleeve cut in half; I can use the brake levers from anywhere on that width of grip. Going uphill or into wind, I tend to get on the corners of the forward loop. The forward facing angle the cables leave the controls leaves plenty of room behind/under them for luggage.


The Geoff bars sit in a flat plane, little or no rise, which I’ve angled slightly down towards the rear of the bike, hence the higher angle stem. Looks a bit ungainly, but I’m 6’4″ on an XL frame, all my bikes look a bit ungainly.

I really like my Geoff bars, bought to deal with a persistent wrist issue. Currently using the Kyote bars which also alleviate the wrist issues I had. Both with Ergon grips

I have used Jones bars for while, did try some Ritchey Kyote but didn’t like them as the felt too in between ‘normal’ bars and bars like Jones (and for that matter trad Dutch bike bars) do find what once you getting into very swept bars then you do need to angle them down and you do loose a bit of bar height by doing so.