This is probably obvious to some, but not really to me...
I know what they are, and what they do...
If i do a drop off, and go though more travel than I want, do i use more HSC or LSC, what about getting more support in a berm, again, is that high or low speed compression...
As for rebound, say im getting thrown forward off the lip of a jump, i need more rebound damping, but is that high speed or low?
any examples to help me without me having to go out to specifically try these things, so I can just go for a ride, and think, huh those braking bumps were a pain I'll roll off some (HSR?) and be aware that it will have a negative effect on....
The cane creek website has quite useful descriptions of what's what:
[url= http://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/dbair-cs/4-way-adjustment ]http://www.canecreek.com/products/suspension/dbair-cs/4-way-adjustment[/url]
[url= http://www.canecreek.com/resources/products/suspension/tfg_english.pdf ]http://www.canecreek.com/resources/products/suspension/tfg_english.pdf[/url]
And somewhat usefully shows each setting on the tuning guide as between two characteristics:
HSC: Plush / resists bottom out
LSC: Supple / pedalling efficiency
HSR: Lively pop / G-out control
LSR: Plush / firm
Important to remember as well that High and Low relates to shock shaft speed not bike speed!
They've also just released a tuning app which takes one through it step by step out on the trail which sounds a good way to get head around these things.
The Cane Creek "Dailed" app mentioned above looks really good. You have to blag through the set-up stage if you are not using a Cane Creek shock, but once you have a setup entered you can then use the "tweak" button and you can select the symptom (eg. "need mo pop", or "pitching forward on takeoff") and it will tell you what to alter.
I have a CCDBA so their website and now their app is extremely useful as above
key to all this is you have to take your time in setting it up
What bike is the shock on? I'm having similar musings after setting mine up as per the spec for my bike as on the Cane Creek site, but don't want to cock it all up!
You can't really cock it up as such. Just adjust one thing at a time, a little at a time. If you don't like it put it back where it came from. And if things really get out of hand just wind them all the way in or out and count the clicks/turns back to the CC recommended base tune settings.
Talking about all of this is getting me excited about the Shockwiz tuner I should be getting soon: [url= https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dustydynamics/shockwiz-automated-suspension-tuning-for-mountain/description ]https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dustydynamics/shockwiz-automated-suspension-tuning-for-mountain/description[/url]
I've always thought of it as:
High speed C/R- too quick for me to react to (or feels like vibration) - eg wheel tracking through a rock garden
Low speed C/R - at the speed I can react to (or impacts whole body weight) - eg going through a berm or jumping.
EDIT - What's not always obvious is whether you need to change the Rebound or the Compression damping when trying to tweak setup. Too much damping on either can make a fork feel harsh, for example.
As for rebound, say im getting thrown forward off the lip of a jump, i need more rebound damping, but is that high speed or low?
Low speed.
In general, on shocks and forks with truely independant circuits - high speed for square edged hits whilst low speed affects everything else. Jumps and drops almost always see shaft speeds that are associated with low speed adjusters. So if the bike is tipping you forward on a jump look at the following
1) Sag balance
2) Rebound balance
I say balance because it could be that you are running your forks too slow. You want to tune both the front and rear using the bracketing method mentioned in these two articles
http://www.leelikesbikes.com/fox-propedal-and-suspension-bracketing.html
http://enduro-mtb.com/en/back-issue-tune-it-up-front-suspension/
You can't really cock it up as such. Just adjust one thing at a time, a little at a time. If you don't like it put it back where it came from. And if things really get out of hand just wind them all the way in or out and count the clicks/turns back to the CC recommended base tune settings.
That's not really the way to do it. The best way is to tune one thing at a time, eg LSR but go from one extreme to the other so you can get a feel for what it does. Then move inwards to the best setting by trying one click further in - on either side sequentially - writing your feelings downs so you don't get overwhelmed.
As always, the best way to solve or explain a problem is to exagerate it to highlight the salient points. This applies to suspension as well as many ofther walks of life.