That is a puzzler.

In regards to your Vet weighing, if you get the chance again, don’t weight yourself with the bike and subtract what you think you weigh hop on the scales – record what they say, then do so again holding the bike – subtract one from the other – there are too many variables otherwise.

Yes it certainly Is! With regard to weighing the bike. That’s exactly what I did. Apologies if I didn’t make that clear. I weighed myself and then weighed both me and the bike and subtracted my weight. Just to clear that up!

My bike definitely weighs 16 kg. I wish I knew why.

Thanks, what wheels would you recommend? I’ve looked at Stans Flow and they seem to be good. Any other suggestions? I’m on a bit of a budget with this bike…

The new Flow S1s look good, you can get lighter wheels for the money though. Your bike uses two standards that are disappearing from high-end bikes (QR rear and standard spacing instead of boost) so you should be able to find a set of Hope Hoops or similar for less than £150 if you scour the classifieds.

The new Flow S1s look good, you can get lighter wheels for the money though. Your bike uses two standards that are disappearing from high-end bikes (QR rear and standard spacing instead of boost) so you should be able to find a set of Hope Hoops or similar for less than £150 if you scour the classifieds

Thanks, that’s good to know. Wheels are next on my list.

Are Mavic Crossrides Ok? Perhaps a bit heavy?

There are two kinds of people that would buy a Bossnut: budget conscious and beginners. Given that you’ve hopped in the upgrade train before the ink has dried on your receipt, I assume you’re not in the first camp.

Don’t bother with upgrades, the bike is a (reasonably priced, best in class, etc) lump. Enjoy it as it is, see where it gets you, then buy something more suitable.

I was in Go:Outdoors at the weekend … and it was the first time I had ever seen the Bossnut.  I have seen the reviews … and could have been tempted.

I picked it up … it was XL size (which I would need).  Blimey … it made my old Patriot look like a featherweight.

TBH, I would ride it , use it to it’s max.  Once you know it is the sport fro you , sell it on …  Buying new wheels etc seems a little bit like a waste of effort.

But also factor in that most Full suspension weigh 32lbs or more , unless it is mega expensive and whippet focused …

The OP got me curious, so I just nipped out and ‘weighed’ my bikes. ‘Weighing’ meaning the bathroom scales and subtract own weight method.

Bossnut (19”) was 16kg. I’ve added a dropper, MP540 pedals, a wider bar and a slightly bigger rear tyre, so I’m not surprised. These things add up fast.

My hardtail was 14kg. Again, not surprised as it probably has a better spec than the Bossnut and single ring etc.

I have owned one for just over a month, a large frame.  I thinks its a great full susser for the money after coming from a hardtail 29er with XCT forks. I bashed all around the UK trails alongside my mates with “proper bikes” it held its own but i suffered terribly from arm pump and being bounced about on the rougher trails especially after Landeglla. This is the moment i realised i needed a full sus, with my budget i could have bought a better bike on paper used but i preferred the peace of mind that comes from buying new, so after not much thought i headed to collect my brand new Bossnut. Its been a revelation since,  the quality of the ride just eats up rough terrain and the handling when its pointed downhill is amazing, i have the dropper and i use it a lot, different pedals, tubeless tyres and burg tech bars, recently gone to 1X10 and its amazing. It climbs well enough don’t really seem to notice the weight. Its given me so much more confidence to attack the trails and moving all over the bike to get the best of it.  The bike far exceeds my talents and for the money it can’t be bettered.

Don’t bother with upgrades, the bike is a (reasonably priced, best in class, etc) lump. Enjoy it as it is, see where it gets you, then buy something more suitable.

The frame is no worse than anything sold at £2k or so. It’s no heavier and has decent geometry – it’s cheap because GO can buy in cheap, not because they are ‘lumps’. It is heavy because most of the stuff hanging off it is heavy, similar to my Boardman. (I put a set of £200 Fulcrum wheels on that which weighed a full kg less than the originals.)

Looking at weights stated in the mags, most fs bikes around £2.5k are weighing in at around 13.5-14kg. So an extra £1500 buys you a 2kg weight saving (plus hopefully slightly improved fork and shock) but not a significantly different design of frame.

Yes, I agree it’s certainly not a lump. I was a bit shocked and disappointed yesterday when I weighed it (mainly because I was expecting it to be much lighter and I had spent a bit to improve it) but I think overall as people have said it’s pretty pointless weighing it in the first place as it only makes you feel a bit obsessive.

I’ll be riding mine again this weekend and enjoying it. I do want to upgrade the wheels next, and to be honest I enjoy upgrading and modding it to fit me better, even though it’s essentially a budget bike. It’s definitely more capable than I am.

Every time I feel like giving in to the “maybe it would ride so much better if I spent £x on a lighter component to shave half a pound off” I try to remind myself of three things.

Firstly, it’s a mountain bike in the UK. For six months of the year it increases in weight by at least a kilo every ride.

Secondly, it’s a mountain bike in the UK. Components are likely to wear out, get snapped off etc. Less painful if they’re not bling.

Thirdly, if I really wanted to, I could probably lop 15-20 lbs off of the ‘full riding weight’ by getting a bit fitter, and not drinking so much ale and eating so much yummy food.

I don’t think I’ll ever buy XTR!

True.

Some great posts above.

It’s a sound bike and deserves it’s great reviews.👍

Have fun this weekend… and with the modding. It’s addictive isn’t it? And costly.lol 😮

You could lose 1.5kg yourself in a week.  That will cost you nothing and have the advantage of improving any bike you ride.

Are Mavic Crossrides Ok? Perhaps a bit heavy?

They have the same issue as a lot of factory-built wheels – low spoke count and straight-pull spokes means they’re hard to fix if they do come out of true. Standard 32-spoke wheels are generally more tweakable and will keep rolling for years.

They have the same issue as a lot of factory-built wheels – low spoke count and straight-pull spokes means they’re hard to fix if they do come out of true. Standard 32-spoke wheels are generally more tweakable and will keep rolling for years.

Wise words.

Straight pull, bladed spokes don’t seem to make much of a difference to anything and are more expensive. Actually, scrub that, they are slightly easier to sort out seized threads on because you can hold the spoke with an adjustable spanner!

But yes, 32 tooth, regular spoked wheels are best IMO. You can’t go far wrong with Merlin for an excellent set of handbuilt wheels at decent prices.

I’ve also had a Mavic straight pull spoke rip out through a rim before – something that my rational self knows is probably a one-off, but…………

“Don’t bother with upgrades, the bike is a (reasonably priced, best in class, etc) lump. Enjoy it as it is, see where it gets you, then buy something more suitable.”

See, I’d go the other way – there’s nothing really wrong with it, which I know is a back-handed compliment, but that’s it’s USP really. It’s a contemporary bike, okay maybe not of the very latest Sram Super-boost or whatever but it’s current and fun to ride for little money – the usual argument that buying a better bike is cheaper over-all doesn’t work here because you have to spend SO much more. The Beastnut being the exception, but they all sold very quickly.

Wheels are usually the first thing to bin on a cheap bike, spend a little on a pair from Superstar or whoever and you’ll shift some weight and more importantly unsprung weight – forget the scales for moment because they’ll make it more lively (however, lively can mean less planted for new users, so heavy wheels for beginners isn’t always a bad thing).

Next I’d probably ditch the Sunrace Cassette, I know they’re well liked as a Brand but the OE looks a bit of a lump and you could easily fit the M6000 Shimano cassette, it’s lighter than the current XT cassette with the same range (11-42 instead of 11-36 the Bosnut comes with) – lose about 150g (I think) not much, but gain a lot of range to make it easy to spin up the climbs – even ditch the front mech, shifter etc and go 1×10 on a 11/42 which is more than enough for most – not a megabucks upgrade with a ‘cheap and cheerful’ narrow-wide at the front.

Straight pull, bladed spokes don’t seem to make much of a difference to anything and are more expensive. Actually, scrub that, they are slightly easier to sort out seized threads on because you can hold the spoke with an adjustable spanner!

But yes, 32 tooth, regular spoked wheels are best IMO. You can’t go far wrong with Merlin for an excellent set of handbuilt wheels at decent prices.

+1

Or learn to build your own, it’s not rocket science, your first set will probably come loose but you can re-tension and figure out what went wrong and then you’ve a new skill sorted for the future.

MTB (particularly enduro/DH) wheels are a doddle to build because the rims are so stiff, the skill comes when trying to build with 360g road rims!

If you want so save some wheel weight just get some novtec hubs off ebay, and some DT swiss rims, the DT rims are brilliant VFM if you get them from rose or bike-discount.de.

I assembled one of these for a mate two weeks ago and its not light but no worse than any other burly full susser. I’d forget weighing it and just ride it, after all we’re not roadies.

Next I’d probably ditch the Sunrace Cassette, I know they’re well liked as a Brand but the OE looks a bit of a lump and you could easily fit the M6000 Shimano cassette, it’s lighter than the current XT cassette with the same range (11-42 instead of 11-36 the Bosnut comes with) – lose about 150g (I think) not much, but gain a lot of range to make it easy to spin up the climbs – even ditch the front mech, shifter etc and go 1×10 on a 11/42 which is more than enough for most – not a megabucks upgrade with a ‘cheap and cheerful’ narrow-wide at the front.

Yes I’ve been thinking about that myself. The only thing I can’t work out is whether I would need a new rear mech compatible with the 11-42 cassette.

Thanks for the contributions everyone, there’s some good info in here.

spend a little on a pair from Superstar

Beware the Superstar pawls and ratchet ring in my experience. Mine went from A-OK to pedals going round and round in vain in the space of a couple of rides. When I took it to bits, the teeth on the ratchet were virtually unrecognisable.

Have a look at Merlin for good wheels at good prices. You won’t regret spending the extra over what you’d pay to Superstar. If you did opt for non-shimano hubs you’ll need to factor in the (negligible) cost of a six bolt rotor, though.

My two pennoth.

If it rides well – ignore the scales.  Keep riding it, but as it is a relatively low-priced bike (And excellent value.), I would replace stuff as it wears out/breaks and seek lighter replacements.  In recommending this, I am making an assumption, that in time you will want to upgrade to a more expensive bike.

As people have said already, the best bang for your buck is wheels and tyres.  I would avoid spending a lot on gears and brakes – as the losses there are much smaller.  Stems and a lot of non-exotic droppers are often much of a muchness, so I’d leave that too.  You have some decent bars already, you can lose a fair bit with pedals and sometimes with saddles.  The joy of those latter things is that they can move with you.

Main thing though, enjoy riding the bike you have.  It’s a decent machine and if it makes you grin when you are out – that’s all the matters!

The rims on the Bossnut as standard are WTB i25’s and they are supposed to weight 450g (rim only I guess). When I look at possible upgrades, such as Hope Hoops etc, many of them weigh more than 500g.

Can anyone suggest anything a bit lighter?

Actually I think I’ve got that WTB rim weight wrong. Looks like they around 530g.

One of my bikes is the Bossnut V2 in size L.

Love it. Climbs great. Fantastic trail bike. I generally don’t care too much about the weight of my bikes and never put one onto the scale. But my impression: the Bossnut V2 is not an heavy full suspension bike at all – it’s very comparable to other aluminium trail bikes. At least it “feels” like it…

Other issue maybe: if you are racing. But then you might end up with an carbon bike and a necessary budget of maybe 3k?

I don’t worry about this kind of stuff – and enjoy biking. And the Bossnut is so much fun on the trail!!!

I don’t worry about this kind of stuff – and enjoy biking. And the Bossnut is so much fun on the trail!!!

Yep, I think I’m over it. Had some great rides on it and it is a lot of fun 😉

Haha.

Great!

Cheers!

Just out of curiosity, what was wrong with the RSP plummet? mines been fine since aug ’16 and not had any real issues..

@canopy: yes – good question. Some pals told be about problems as well – but I guess these refer to older RSP designs. Assumed the ’16 and later designes are o.k.. But not sure.

Would be interested in the RSP as well. To me it looks like an o.k. design. But don’t like to have hassle…

Would be good to have some inputs!

(just for clarification. although bought in aug 2016 mine is the 2017 model, same as available in go outdoors currently)

16kg is 35lb

i used to ride a Specialized Enduro 2006 that was “upgraded” and it wasn’t far off that weight (may have been heavier at one point too). It was a great bike to ride and it made me fitter.

Ive now got a pretty good spec Starling Swoop and it’s about 32lb. But I weigh a stone n a half more. My main problem now is finding time to ride one bike even though I’ve got three in the shed

Upgrades dont always make a bike lighter – a good bike isn’t necessarily light. I don’t race cross-country on the Swoop and I don’t take the cross bike to BPW.

I don’t even know what my Trail bike (T-130) weighs ….

I had to change cranks anyway as the ones it comes with are too long for me but stuck on some spare stuff anyway.  I replaced the forks in a spending fit but didn’t weigh them and I’m not really away of the difference.

Wheels … the stock wheels just felt pants.  I had a pair of carbon wheels I tried on and the difference was night and day.  Couldn’t tell you the weight difference… but they felt much much lighter… but then I also got some cheap (£100) wheels from Superstar… (Fuel Hubs and superstar rims in a superstar sale – wouldn’t have paid full price) .. despite having to loosen and then retention all the spokes after 1 ride these feel way better than the stock wheels… and much more spritely… Looking back I wish I’d spent a bit more and got some Stans that were on sale at the time.  HOWEVER… without weighing .. just by feel the £100 wheels are closer in feel to the carbon sprightliness (if not stiffness)

I know my kids bike weighs but then he’s 25kg… and I know lifting my trail bike into the bike stand its way heavier I’d guess around 15kg??  but I don’t let that worry me… is it worth spending money… ???  For me yes because I like the bike and the frame.  I could buy something else more expensive and still need to change stuff over… and I expect stuff to get broken or wear out anyway.

Changing Revelations for Pikes?  Worked out well, especially when pointing DH…. did it save weight???  No idea?

Would be interested in the RSP as well. To me it looks like an o.k. design. But don’t like to have hassle…

Would be good to have some inputs!

My RSP plummet want south over time. If I remember it started with an issue where the cable goes into the post and then the remote completely came apart on a ride. I’m currently looking the rockshox reverb but hearing mixed reviews about them as well. For what’s it worth the RSP was fine when it was working.

Brand X Ascend. Job done. Lol

@thesoundone:

RSP: thanks! Will check the Brand X then.

Made a nice trip with my Bossnut V2 yesterday and today. Today a bit too cold and warm um now behind the oven…

Biked a lot over winter time with old hardtails which I upgraded and the Bossnut. Lots and lots of mud biking with all of them – hope they didn’t suffer too much…

Dropper, up to now: don’t have one. Stop, and push the saddle down manually – sometimes… Forget too often to do so and end up (too often) in situations where I nearly crash. Guess it’s worth the money – but assume that these things give up in mud biking quick…