Chain stretch on a 10 speed setup?
Using a chain-stretch indicator tool, I checked the condition of the SRAM 1051 on a bike I bought in April. Now, I've used the bike quite a lot, but was shocked to discover that the chain was stretched to the 2nd indicator ... i.e. It is munching the cassette & chainrings.
Is the link spacing the same on 10 & 9 speed? I ask in case I need a different tool to measure the stretch on a 10 speed,
I think the whole 'chainstretchmeasurementtoolandreplacethechainmoreoftenthanbefore' stuff is cobblers.
Still shifting ok? Then get it ridden and don't worry.
Is the link spacing the same on 10 & 9 speed? I ask in case I need a different tool to measure the stretch on a 10 speed,
The only measurement difference between a 9sp and 10sp chain is the difference in width between the plates on the links i.e. a 10 sp chain is narrower, the links themselves are the same length.
If it's showing as worn, get it changed, wearing out a chain in three months through heavy use is not unusual.
(CRIKEY) The shifting is still OK, but, if everything is wearing together, isn't there just a problem brewing?
I'm tempted to change the chain pretty sharpish (KINGTUT) as it's a X0 set-up, which looks pretty damn expensive to replace.
If you run a worn chain you will accelerate the wear on the rest of the drive chain, as you say it's XO replacing the chain at this point is your cheaper (and sensible) option.
[i]isn't there just a problem brewing[/i]
Well, I would say no.
Chains and cassettes are essentially disposable items; they wear out as a consequence of being used. You can try to measure the amount of wear and try to replace the chain before it wears the casstte, but you'll have to change both eventually.
I just ride the chain and cassette into the ground, it's surprising how long you can get out of them both. The only thing that you might get is chain suck at the front, but if it's not a problem I would suggest just getting on with it.
Thanks for the responses ... I accept I need to change the chain, but disappointed that it has worn so quickly. The new bike gets a fair bit of use, but my other bikes have faired better.
Is it an issue with 10 speed SRAM I should know? Will the KMC or Shimano options fair better?
I'm running a mix of SRAM / Shimano 10speed and am about to have to change them all (chainsuck) after 3 and a bit months. That's about normal for me when I used to run 9speed.
It's just one of those things, some chains I've had last longer than others (under the same conditions).
KMC X10 chain is my choice.
I stopped using those measuring devices, if you use the extra accurate analogue ones with a sliding scale from 0% to 1%, most chains I checked started at 0.5% and seemed to reach 0.75% incredibly quickly.
I wouldn't trust the manufacturers of the chains to tell you when to replace them either, slight conflict of interest perhaps?
13thfloormonk ... What do you use to check chain wear?
^ by that I mean, what's a good indicator that it's time for a change ... before it's too late?
Check Sheldon, I think it's 1%
I don't any more, I follow crikey's advice, which, reading your posts again, mighten't be much help if you're running a mega-bucks cassette!
I tried the 'visual inspection' approach by keeping an eye on the cassette until I noticed the first signs of wear, but the new chain skipped all over the place so I obviously can't guage wear very well 😳
Is it an issue with 10 speed ...........
yes the major issue is wear 🙂
no in all seriousness compared to 9sp the chains are so much thinner,
and compared to 8sp they are anorexic.
at .75% wear you might get away with a new chain on the old cassette - more than that its unlikly you will.
You can try a new chain -- if it skips just put the old one back on andride it into the ground as cricky suggests
Ive been using Sram-Sedis chains for years. Although Shimano chains have got better again.
I ride road and mtb.
Ive noticed the wear rate on top end Sram road chains is very bad and oil dosent hold on long. As do Sram road rings wear very quickly.
Keep an eye on the wear even without a tool you can get a good idea of wear rate by looking at the chain rollers which engage with the rings and cassette they become smaller and looser. Hence the stretch-gap inbetween links.
Replace it as it will only **** your cassette and more importantly rings which are the lions share cost of a good chainset.
For the sake of £15-£35 get a chain.
I now run Shimano Chainsets and chains on all my road bikes.
My MTB currently has a Sram chain and XX cassette no problems as yet.
Mike