Brakes SLX or OEM

Brakes on the TrekFuelEx are shimano 4pot – i think theyre an OEM M6000 kind of Deore-like. Ive noticed they’re not so great now its turning wet and cruappy out there. Not bad but noticable, especially the rear.

Ive got a set of SLX 2pots on the hardtail in the shed. Jusy wondering if they would be better – SLX 2pot vs OEM 4pot – or probably worse because 2pot?
Worth a try
or
Suck it up and find some better 4pot.

New pads?

Pads are the obvious thing to try.

A bleed too possibly and an inspection for micro leaks around the caliper body

Cheap OEM sbimano may well have resin pads, and somehow they have designed “resin only” rotors too.

Replacing those probably more likely ro make a real difference, worst case you have spare pads andd decent rotors for when you go SLX

They should both have servo wave levers and ceramic (or whatever they call it) pistons. They OEM brakes most likely just need some TLC

Those 6000 four pots are pretty good stoppers. I’d rather have one on the back instead of an SLX 2 pot.

Bet discs and pads will make a huge difference.

I’ve got deore 4 pots on the fs and slx 2 pots on the ht. Same sized rotors on both bikes. No really noticeable difference to me. Resin pads on all except the front slx which has sintered.
If the deore 4 pots aren’t working well I’d look at pads/discs/contamination problems as above

yep – going to give them a bleed first. IT was new in April so not really seen any crap weather until now.
I dont think theres anything wrong with the pads, not even sure what they are – resin or sintered.

And ‘Resin only’ rotors??! Seriously? How do i check on that one?

It’ll be engraved on the rotor. Can’t imagine they’d explode if used with sintered, I think it really just means ‘cheap’

look at the model number on the rotor than google it with “shimano rotor”. there is a big website full of shimano documents. that will tell you.

(hope that doesn’t sound condescending, it’s a genuine response)

or do what george suggests. much quicker!

i imagine that a sintered pad would wear out the rotor very quickly.

Been running Shimano resin-only rotors on my Hopes with sintered pads for years without any problems. I’d say they do wear out a little more quickly than the other types, but it really is marginal.I’d try a good scrubbing of the rotors with soapy water and a toothbrush, scuff them with 180 grit wet-or-dry paper, and a new set of sintered pads bedded in in clean conditions (taking for granted the calipers are aligned correctly, and not distorting the rotor when braking, pistons are clean and moving freely,and properly bled.)

Rotors are RT66 so resin or sintered ok
I’ll check but sure it’ll be a resin pad.
I think i’ll stick with these 6100s and leave the 2pots on the HT.

I wore away a very noticeable amount of a resin only Shimano rotor in 3 days in the Alps using Kevlar pads.

Enough that I reckoned the rotor might just want changing.
The pads weren’t too bad.

I think it’s just a softer (probably grippier – maybe?) steel.

Yeah I’ve got them, resin only pads. Work fine for southdowns area where I am.
But anything more I’d probably swat pads and rotors out,

Regarding the discs, it’s probably a bit like them telling us to use a quick link only once.

Covering their arses basically

Been running Shimano resin-only rotors on my Hopes with sintered pads for years without any problems

Very surprised you got away with that. The ‘resin only’ rotor on K’s road bike wore out incredibly quickly after I changed the original pads for something else (can’t remember what they were – I think a white backed Superstar pad – maybe kevlar?).