Big Rings – moving to 53/39…

Not sure if I had a bad day in the office today but, has anyone riding road bikes moved from Compact to 53/29 … … and found it hard?

I tried to even it out by using a 11/28 at the back, rather than the 11/25 with the Compact, but it just felt hard today and I only used the top 4 sprockets of the cassette whilst onthe 53.

Perhaps on the plus side it’ll build up my leg strength…

I moved the other way as part of the aging process. Rode everywhere with a 53/4-39 , 12/25 for years. Unless I moved to Holland or Lincolnshire nothing would make me change back !! Embrace the compact there’s no shame 8)

Use the 39 then, if the 53 is too big.
It’s a racing set up. The 53 is useful when you are tanking along in the bunch/solo at speed, not when you are riding solo at 30kph.

It doesn’t (usually) give you any bigger ratios than compact, just means you get sightly smaller steps, which are very nice when you are barrelling along at 10/10ths.

Compact used to be paired with an 11 top sprocket, 53 with a 12 or 13.

It’s all got a bit muddled up now, people run what ever they want. Even if they can’t physically push a gear that big.

I reckon probably 2/3rds of my training was done in the 39. Could still spin a 53×12 up to 100+ rpm on the flat when i needed to. (given a nice long run up and some handy wheels to sit on at 50+kph first!)

Went the other way, from standard to compact, then to mid and back to compact and that’s in Lincolnshire

had compact, much prefer mid size, especially the larger inner ring allowing a higher cadence combined with slightly taller gears

A good point ghostlymachine. I’ve only done 1 ride on a windy day today so perhaps it’s not as instinctive due to years on a compact.

I want to use my bike for TTs this year with my modus operandum if you like being big gears on the flat I though the 53 would add speed, with the 28 at the back being very close to 34/25.

I went from standard to semi compact, and find it much better – 53/39 to 52/36. Much more useable gears and definitely wouldn’t go back.

modus operandum

steady, you’ll have flash thinking you’re (the) hoi polloi 😉

It’s just a case of getting used to riding in the big ring and top 4 cogs on the back again, sure you used to do just that until you chose to go compact, so it just feels harder ATM.

If you want to TT, thems the gear’idge.

Or put the compact back on and spin the top end out..

It’ll sound daft but I found the block ratios better with 53/39 than a compact. Then I tried a semi 52/36 and it worked even better for me in Wales. Compact on the winter bike and I know it’s going to feel tough going back. Compact does seem spinny though.
Nothing wrong with little-ringing it Kryton and unless the pace is high you’ll not find many occasions (fast tt course excluded) where you’ll be 53/11

I spent a good hour or so thinking about going the other way (standard->compact) just the other day as I was grinding up a seemingly never-ending 10-15% gradient.

Make life simpler and ride fixed instead 🙂

I absolutely hate compact chainset on the road although that might be related to the insistence of fitting 12-28 cassettes, it might be OK with an 11-23.
Always ridden 39/53 – got a 12-25 cassette with that which works perfectly up to about 20% gradients although I’d probably avoid taking on Hardknott with that gearing!

Might be borrowing a bike with a 36/52 in a couple of weeks, see how I get on with that.

Have you done any strength training before changing the rings over? If not then it’s not unreasonable to expect there to be a period of adjustment.

After all, it’s your legs that do the work, not the gears 🙂

I went from standard to semi compact, and find it much better – 53/39 to 52/36. Much more useable gears and definitely wouldn’t go back

This. Still got 53/39 on the winter bike and I’m not a fan.

Or put the compact back on and spin the top end out..

You spin out 52-11 much? Or even 50-11?

I went to a compact from a 53/39 set up (50/34). Found the 34 a bit low and the jump between rings too great so put a 36 inner ring on and really like it. Enables me to run a cassette with a nice tight ratio. In terms of top end 50-11 is very similar to 53-12 I think. Not that I use it much!

my road bike was built on a budget and I got a deal on the groupset but it came with 39/53 rings and an 11-25 cassette, which was a bit daft for a non-racer, I then got a 12-28 block which was the same ratios effectively losing the 11 and an extra on the back

I don’t think I ever needed the very top gear, the only time I really used it was coming down from the top of hartside down to Alston
the 28 gets use 🙂

although I do find that not being too proud to use the small ring makes a big difference, it’s all about the cadence and I find that the ratios aren’t as gappy, some riders on compacts end up it a right old cross chain mess

I think you have a point. I need to re-learn such gears / rings are appropriate. With summer coming and the bike used for time trials having the 53 will be good.

I’m probably beating myself up to badly for experimenting with it during an uphill lunchtime thrash into a 12mph wind. 🙂

Whut? The idea is to end up in the same ratio/cadence. A road double just gives you a different range and smaller steps. Unless you can buy an extra chunk of fitness/power and install it at the same time as moving from compact to road double.

njee20 – Member
Or put the compact back on and spin the top end out..
You spin out 52-11 much? Or even 50-11?

Me? Not often no and I’m on 50/34-28/12 because I ride a lot of hills, the range suits me perfectly. I did use 53/39-25/11 when I first bought the bike (the roadie) but changed it pretty much 3months in when I was climbing the 20/25%’ers in North Yorkshire, then checked against the CX’er and thats a 46/34-28/12 and found I rode that far better and quicker up the bumps, so changed the roadie to something close without compromising the top end when riding in a bunch with mates.
Perfect for me now, both bikes.

My opinion on K57’s dilemma is it’s just getting used to the terrain you ride on most and powering the legs up a bit to get used to it. Dare say (huge assumption here) that his cadence will drop when he fits the bigger rings but build more power as he gets used to them.. might take a while, but in the end probably become stronger for it.

I’m passed that stage now, I just ride what I like where I like and want to get over it fast.

@ Ghostlymachine – I think you and I have different interpretations of the OPs original question.

OP – I’m about to head out on my first ride on 52/36 rings having been on 50/34 for years. Have run out of gears in races a few times last year so hoping this will help. Have done a bit of deliberate grinding up hills on the winter bike in preparation for this but am still expecting a bit of re-adjustment in my gear expectations for a couple of weeks.

My opinion on K57’s dilemma is it’s just getting used to the terrain you ride on most and powering the legs up a bit to get used to it. Dare say (huge assumption here) that his cadence will drop when he fits the bigger rings but build more power as he gets used to them.. might take a while, but in the end probably become stronger for it.

Which is all good for training as I’m not a classic “Power” rider and rely on cadence for climbs. I used a previously aforementioned comparison chart when I decided to go 28/11. The bottom climbing end ratio is similar, the top end faster. The biggest issue is there’s a wider spread on the top four sprockets. Where on 50/34 I’d be on the 17t or 15t on club runs I’m now on the 19//22 and I can feel the additional muscular stress. So a chain line and fatigue issue at worst I suppose. But yes, also the 39 and 19t onwards has a far greater spread into riding the bike faster so if tired it’s more useable on said club runs.

But again, as summer approaches and TT’s happen I will benefit. The winter bike and therefore slower riding period still has compact.

I’m not going to be competitive in TT’s this year – it’s my first year and I’m trying it out. So if all that happens is that I enjoy a fast summer and my leg strength improves then I made a good choice.

If not, it’s a new set of Mid praxis rings on my 2016 Chritmas list 🙂

Ran a 53/39 combo on the road bike in the South East and felt fine…moved to Wales and now I can’t wait to get rid of the bastard thing and put a compact on instead!

Embrace the compact, although those new Shimano mid-chainsets look interesting.

I bought a 53/39 because it was cheaper and available at the time..

I ended up fitting 50/38 rings and a slightly bigger cassette to essentially get back to the same gearing range a compact would have given in the first place… Genius eh!

Lesson learned, fit the gears that suit you, don’t over-gear assuming you’ll somehow magically “nut up” overnight…

Well K57 best of luck with the TT. I think you know I don’t like them, but hey God loves a try’er.

You’re right about the top cogs, Out on the CX’er today (in flipping freezing conditions and black ice) and I span up to keep warm, you’re right, the top 4 are spaced quite far apart and there is a jump between my set..

Funny, I’ve noticed it loads before but never took it in much.. 😆

Think it’s worth having a few different rings in the spares box and ride what’s appropriate for where you’re riding and what you’re doing.

Last winter was doing a lot of z2 work and always seemed to be between the big and small rings on a standard so stuck on a 50/36 and that worked well for me with a 12-23 for the sort of riding I was doing at the time. Went back to standard rings on upping the intensity of rides.

Nice thing about the new Shimano chain sets is that you can fit compact/mid/standard rings, or mix and match a bit, all for the same crank.

Got to say though, I’d fit more appropriate chainrings over a horrid 11-28.

If you can advise me of some mid sized 110bcd chainrings for less than the £109 that praxis want…

I’ve recently done the same as you – semi compact back to standard and I’m buggered if I can tell the difference. Mind you, I’m one of those odd ones that likes 12-28.

Praxis ones probably worth the cash, and they last a lot longer than a cassette.

Think it’s worth having a few different rings in the spares box and ride what’s appropriate for where you’re riding and what you’re doing.

Hmm. I’m not far away from taking it to the Tour of Flanders.

I find 52/36 with 11-25 to be a great set up, 53/39 always ended up over gearing and compact wasn’t enough on group rides or descents. Also one of the best pieces of advice I ever had was “copy the pros cadence(s) not their ratios!”

20 odd responses and probably 20 different answers 😉

If you can advise me of some mid sized 110bcd chainrings for less than the £109 that praxis want…

50 quid…

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-fc-rs500-110mm-bcd-5-arm-outer-chainring-mj-type-black-52t-prod36393/

Is a bit annoying that Praxis seem to only sell chainrings in pairs. I’d probably have gotten some of their rings if they sold them individually.

Persevere with the 53/39 for a bit, embrace the 39…….

Semi compact is where it is at for mortals with aspirations. I’ve raced compact with 11-23, but love the 52/36 with a 28 on the Defy and a 25 on the race bike. I also have a 53/39 on the winter Defy and it always feels harder than the smaller ring options. Chain line is never as good, either as I am further up the block.

What do you have on your TT bike TiRed?

Hmmm CRC have a 12-30 Ultegra on sale at £30, maybe I should get that before the chain wears in. At the very least it’d move my most used chain line outboard and is cheaper than a new set of rings.

Hmm existing vs Compact:

http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=34,50&RZ=11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25&UF=2135&TF=96&SL=2.6&UN=MPH&GR2=DERS&KB2=39,53&RZ2=11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28&UF2=2135

Or 12-30 vs compact:

http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=34,50&RZ=11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,23,25&UF=2135&TF=96&SL=2.6&UN=MPH&GR2=DERS&KB2=39,53&RZ2=12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,27,30&UF2=2135

I’ve looked at that chart..

I’m confused. What does it actually say?

Having buggered around with it, put my ranges in, it still makes no sense to me… Prob’s I don’t know how to read it, but clearly missing something.

It’s for more educated people than us 🙂

I use the drop down at the bottom so the little triangles which represent sprockets to show “speed”. There I can see that my old Compact 11/25 has and extra gear basically at the top of the cassette than the current setup when in the big ring. So there’s a wide gap aka harder pedalling currently.

Going 12-30 gives me an even easier gear 39-30 than 34-25 I had. I would want use that on the SE as id be very slow, but I’m scared I’d be tempted.

Do what?

Appreciate cost etc but is the wrong way to go about it IMO. Especially for time trial like efforts. Stick with a close ratio cassette and then get the rings to suit.

Do what?

I can see which gear I’m using at 20mph say, so it tells me the chain line issue.

Appreciate the latter paragraph.