Home Forums Bike Forum Best None-Ghetto Fat bike Tubeless Setup

  • This topic has 13 replies, 11 voices, and was last updated 6 years ago by JoeG.
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  • Best None-Ghetto Fat bike Tubeless Setup
  • ndthornton
    Free Member

    As the title – what’s the best setup?

    I currently run On one fat wheels (70mm) with on one floater 4″ tyre
    I self drilled the wheels to save weight
    I have tried bodging tubeless in many ways and haven’t got it to work at sufficiently low pressures (sub 5PSI ).

    The bead interface is the problem – its just not designed for tubeless – It has a sloping profile and lacks the wide horizontal area and tight tolerances you get with for example a Stans rim.

    When I tried not taping over the bead seat the tyre burped all of the time at low pressures. when I taped over the bead seat to create a tighter fit I snapped the tyre bead (that was a scary moment!)

    Obvious choice is Stans Hugo – but they are just too narrow for me – I don’t want to loose volume or tyre shape.

    I have looked at many tubeless wheels but all of them are vague on tubeless suitability and don’t tend to give a close up view of the tyre profile.

    Any experience of what works best?
    I’m not bothered by cut out rims – this hasn’t been my problem
    I’m not interested in ghetto techniques – I want a proper tubeless setup

    Cheers

    nedrapier
    Full Member

    Don’t know about “best”. depends on buget, and what your feelings are about carbon.

    I’d probably go for a DT wheelset.

    I’ve got Surly Marge Lights. No probs tubeless, currently on Jumbo Jims.

    shermer75
    Free Member

    Not a fat bike set up but I feel your pain with the rim profile- I had the same with some Sun Ringle Inferno 23s. I tried all manner of taping shenannigans, nothing worked, I eventually sold them and got something else!

    IvanMTB
    Free Member

    Hi,

    Buy Fatlab rims.Strong, TLR and no cutouts to cover.

    Just valve and tubeless strip of your choice.

    Cheers!
    I.

    monkeyboyjc
    Full Member

    I think you’ll struggle with the rim / tyre choice getting tubeless. I gave up when I had floaters after the 3Rd attempt.

    Ended up getting fatlab rims (55mm) and Nates -seated both wheels with the first pop of the airshot.

    Northwind
    Full Member

    I have BR710s, and it’s a bit up and down. They’re not properly tubeless ready so it does take more effort to inflate than it ought to- if you want it to be straightforward you need to fit tubes or a fatty stripper. I have mine with just tape but it was a ballache to do, I wouldn’t want to do it without a compressor. But they’re very good rims, tough enough, sensible weight, I’m happy overall. I’ve had Minions and assorted Jumbo Jims on them and they’ve all worked perfectly once fitted.

    I think with fatbikes your usage is really important, a lot of fatbike advice especially older stuff assumes you’re doing traditional fatbiking, snow and sand and bikepacking and that and just doesn’t work at all if you’re a bloody fool enduro racing on it like I am.

    richardthird
    Full Member

    FWIW I think for UK trail riding with 4″ tyres, a 52mm Hugo etc would work great!   I actually run even narrower and lighter Scraper i45s, easiest and most reliable tubeless ever with both Snakeskin Jims and Minions, both 4″.

    I just taped over the spoke holes with 1″ Gorilla.

    ndthornton
    Free Member

    I like the look of the FatLab rim profile. Though I might have to drill holes in it for my colourful rim tape (why wouldn’t you!).

    Northwind
    Iv looked at the BR710. What was the taping strategy?
    How low pressure can you go without burping?

    IvanMTB
    Free Member

    Sure thing you can drill them but that is slightly missing the point of easy and simple TL conversion…

    Better gave them custom painting, like mine 😀

    https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4501/36881966213_c8597f79b9_c.jpg

    https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4455/37551606831_a1c666b3f3_b.jpg

    Cheers!
    I.

    bedmaker
    Full Member

    Best I’ve used is a Nextie carbon.

    Really tight, tyre pings into the beadlock and stays there unless you jump on it to remove.

    Just a wrap of any old tape required to coever the spoke holes.

    Didn’t like Torridon rock much though…

    vincienup
    Free Member

    DT 2250’s (same wheels as 710s but sold in a pair).  They can be a little soft though if you get much bottoming out.  TBH, I’d seriously recommend joining ‘UK Fat Bike Club’ on that Facebook and asking the same question.  I’m guessing the answers in no particular order will be DT, Nextie and ICANN though.

    tillydog
    Free Member

    Mulefut rims work great tubeless (80mm wide) – Water proof Scapa 3160 duct tape over the rim strip to seal (buy 4″ and trim to fit the rim).

    Northwind
    Full Member

    “Northwind
    Iv looked at the BR710. What was the taping strategy?
    How low pressure can you go without burping?”

    Mine are actually different at each end, and kind of longwinded because I wanted yellow tape and I couldn’t find what I wanted off the peg. So, I got a roll of wide PVC tape “marking tape” I think it was called. It was too wide, so I cut it a little narrower, then I did one wrap of tape which is essentially the outside- the side you can see- with the sticky side up- so it wasn’t yet stuck to anything. Then I gorilla taped around the side on the first wheel. On the other, I just used another wrap of PVC tape. I’m not sure either is better or worse tbh, the gorilla tape was easier though

    JoeG
    Free Member

    SunRingle Mulefut rims are fantastic. Not too expensive. All that they need is a rim strip and tape to go tubeless. There’s a bead lock that is easy to seat, but still holds the bead firmly. They’re what I run on my Fatty.

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