[Closed] best all - year chain oil ?

Putoline wax, a bit of extra faff but good for at least 500 miles in all conditions (that you would actually want to ride in).

The only time its washed off mid ride I also trashed 3 sets of brake pads, a bottom bracket, and the drivechain inside 20 miles, it was a bit wet.

Pros:
Lasts ages
Doesnt wash off in normal conditions
Resists mud (it'll do weeks/months of typical uk winter muddy evening rides)
Chains last noticeably longer as they're not run dry like when normal lubes wash off.
A tin lasts basicly forever, mines now at least 9 years old.

Cons:
High initial cost
A cheap mini (1l or less) deep fat fryer makes it less of a faff.
Involves 220C molten wax which tends to burn you if you splash it.
Everyone will try and convince you that their liquid lube is just as good.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123866142538

As Tinas says - plus you get much improved chain life and its so much cheaper.

IME the only think that knackers it is peaty soils - I think the acid strips it out

I've been using this for all year round application. It's pretty good.

https://www.juicelubes.co.uk/chain-lubes/viking-juice/

I use Rock and Roll Extreme all year. Good for about 100 miles of wet gunk. Couple or few hundred in just wet.

Viking juice.

I am so evangelical about this stuff I will offer to treat anyones chain for them - either locals or by post

We know TJ. You can't help yourself.

🙂

I also trashed 3 sets of brake pads, a bottom bracket, and the drivechain inside 20 miles

How the actual F,,k did you manage that, and not even think of giving up after , I presume, 13 miles and fishing the 3rd set of spare pads out of your voluminous back pack?

Did you forget to put the wheels on?

progold or progold extreme, metal friction reducer formula
and can be used to clean the chain too. For a thin lube it surprisingly stays put. I've used Pedros and muc off in the past, but now I won't use anything else.

Rock n roll extreme or gold wax one
Or the majority of the time as it’s great value a litre for £16 weldtite tf2 extreme

GT-85, every bike all year, every year. I've had about 3000 miles out of the chain on my T-130 without a slip.

How the actual F,,k did you manage that, and not even think of giving up after , I presume, 13 miles and fishing the 3rd set of spare pads out of your voluminous back pack?

Did you forget to put the wheels on?

Torrential rain + (old) Swinley + a lot of riders churning it up.

It was a race so there was pride at stake! Didn't finish but wasnt first to scratch.

I'm with weeksy. Wash it, quick spray and I'm done. It doesn't collect grit or clog up the jockey wheels.

+1 for GT-85.

must last about 3 rides

Why, may I ask?

I wouldn't risk not wiping and re-lubing after any vaguely wet ride personally.

You probably do want to look into the Putoline thing if that's a firm requirement.

Been using Muc Off C3 Wet Ceramic in recent years (£7.50 for 1 litre bottle IIRC!), which is great for longivity, because previously I used Progold Prolink and was unaware of how easy it came off in the rain and wrecked my fatbike's original chain in ~500 miles!

However, the C3 Wet comes with its own challenge, turning into a thick black paste.

Thinking I might get some nice dry oil for the road bike...

The green one

squirt

Finish Line Red and their wee applicator bottle.

Doesn't last three rides but frankly wiping the applicator thing over the chain after every ride isn't a massive hardship, and the chain is much less gunky than was traditional with the Green.

I'm with TINAS and TJ, Wax for the win.
It's been a proper revelation to me I honestly can't understand why it's not more widely adopted, especially in the UK where bikes do get ridden year round...

TBH you're as well just dunking your chain in any old oil as you are using any of the overpriced, colourful, little dribbly bottles (I've done both) either it turns into a grinding paste or it washes away after 10 minutes of spray...

If you're just after a wet lube that's reasonably priced and not massively gunky then this is my winter option of choice...
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/weldtite-tf2-performance-oil/rp-prod5960

Can't guarantee it'll last three rides but I've found it a good compromise.

I honestly can’t understand why it’s not more widely adopted

Because it's an expensive, messy, faffy method that will clog your mech pulley wheels and clog your cassette (unless you spend more time wiping the excess off) and permanently stain any fabric in comes into contact with, that probably gives marginal improvement over normal lubes at best, and in extremis is really no better than most off the shelf dropper lubes. For me at least, having tried many, I've found one that is the opposite of all of those. I may have to apply a bit more, but as it's part of my cleaning routine, I don't notice, and my chain and cassette last well enough.

Give it a go by all means, and if it works for you, hoorah! but it's not the ideal solution for everyone, despite it's users often evangelical proclamations of it's magical properties. 😉

nickc - it does not clog up jockey wheels or cassettes. although each application takes longer it lasts so much longer that there is a time saving overall - and a huge cost saving.

It is horrid stuff for staining tho - I'll give you that 🙂

Another here that wasn't that impressed by Putoline wax.

It's smelly, faffy, time consuming and found that in my winter riding conditions it didn't last appreciably longer than anything else, which made the whole time and effort pointless - basically the opposite of what TJ just said.

After years of chains in rotation in degreaser and an oil bath, I switched to Wickens & Soderstrum, which has now morphed into Peaty's link lube. Yes, I now run a dropper bottle on my chain after every ride, but the transmission runs so clean it requires no pre-cleaning beyond a hose over it as I clean the rest of the bike. Best of both worlds for my particular regime.

Here's an example of putoline doing its job. I bikepacked 200 miles to SSUK, the first 10 hours/100miles of that was in the pouring rain. The chain was still lubed and working fine at the end of the weekend ~350 miles later.

Try that with a different lube!

I use any old oil I have to hand, engine oil, anything (used olive oil when on holidays as nothing else available). Clean chain properly after each spin and apply oil sparingly, just enough on a cloth to stop the chain going brown. Works a charm. Worst mistake I used to make was putting too much oil on the chain.

Contrastingly, in the worst excesses of winter when I tried it, it was done in about 25 miles of sandy clay based mud. Easily as good as anything else and probably more so, but not worth the rigmarole for the small improvement.

I use Rock and Roll Extreme all year.

Good reminder, just ordered some more....

Squirt mostly, but I have just run out of my last lot so have some Smoove to try. Assume it's pretty much similar?

I've been using Smoove all summer and it works really well,can go around 6 rides before hearing chain noise and need to re apply-chains are wearing sower too.Not sure how it will hold up when winter digs it's heals in though-time will tell. I like the idea of Putoline if it does hold up in the bad,wet conditions-and frequent bike washing that goes along with it.

Squirt

80w90

nickc – it does not clog up jockey wheels or cassettes.

It doesn't after you've completely wiped off all the excess stuff, which may or may not have happened the first time I used it, I couldn't possibly comment...Ahem.

Having read previous lube threads I've now fully converted to Putoline and think it's the best option for me on both MTB's and commuter.
It's not really time consuming if you build it into your bike service regime as by the time you have finished cleaning it's ready to go back on. Every 2 months is about right maybe a bit less in the winter.
Compared with the liquid lubes I've used previously there is no build up and if it is required a stiff brush cleans the cassette in seconds.
It's also a useful way of disposing of the wifes used yankee candles, my chain currently smells of Egyptian cotton 🙂

Are you mixing putoline with the candle wax?

Sort of......when we have the remains of a candle to dispose of I just drop it into the melted Putoline.

I use Boeshield T-9. It lasts for a good few rides, even if you wipe the chain after each ride.

Are people serious about using GT-85??! That's not a lube, is it?

gt 85 does contain light oil - and will be nearly as effective as the other oils you put on the outside of a chain. It may even be more effective than some as the solvents in it should allow it to penetrate the rollers where the oil is really needed

This is the beauty of the putoline - it fills the space around the rollers with a wax that then stays there giving the long lasting lubrication

Putoline is designed for motocross bikes which put their chains under far greater stress than an MTB

Are people serious about using GT-85??! That’s not a lube, is it?

Well I've been using it summer and winter for 15+ years, it's never let me down and I've had 1 chain issue in 15+ years which has a snap and a massive climb.
So yes, I'm serious

Oh OK. I'm suprised people use it for lube. I use it for a quick degrease, loosen the muck before washing. But might try it sometime though!

I like FinishLine Dry, the red one. It pasts at least a ride or 2 in the rain and is relatively mess free.

Have been riding for years and think tried every one above, lots ok, some even good. Touring bike gets engine oil, put on and wiped down, has lasted years. Posh road bike a ceramic but gets wiped and re oiled most rides.
MTBs are now all on Boeshield T-9, getting it from the Mudhugger guys, this stuff is excellent and exceeding all previous oils, waxes, etc..

https://zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/

Couple of questions about that zerofrictioncycling website.

1) can anyone explain that last graph? I seems to show that the molten wax goes from first to last after a few hundred km's on a single application? I'm guessing that's showing that the wax eventually wears off whereas a liquid lube in lab conditions doesn't?

2) Interesting that he heats his wax to only 90C, I've always got putoline upto the max my fryer would do (220C, at which point the wax starts to smoke as you're around it's ignition temp) so that it would be as low viscosity as possible. I wonder if I'd be better doing it in a bowl submerged in a water bath instead. Or if his wax is significantly lower viscosity.

It does backup what TJ and others have been saying for years though, motlen wax is in another league compared to traditional lubes.

if he is only heating the wax to 90 its not getting hot enough to do the job properly. Its needs to be much hotter to get it thin enough to penetrate the rollers. Its hardly molten at 90

Putoline also contains a bunch of friction modifiers - its not just wax.

+1 for c3 ceramic ..expensive but get about 1k out of a chain and so far not goosed a chain ring in thousands of miles...if I lube it right(not hard!!) I'll get about 1k but more likely 800 miles(pretty good considering where its stored.. )..but the sludge is the worst...and if its cleaned badly till ruin a chain in no time at all..

Snake oil is the best (most posts above seem to agree) 🙂

if he is only heating the wax to 90 its not getting hot enough to do the job properly. Its needs to be much hotter to get it thin enough to penetrate the rollers. Its hardly molten at 90

Putoline also contains a bunch of friction modifiers – its not just wax.

I get the impression the website and the wax are the same person? Could be lower molecular weight wax to bring the melting point down.

Putoline describes itself as having graphite in the wax but given the stink I'm guessing there's sulphur compounds too. It'd be interesting to know what's in the speedwax, they do a race additive which costs a bit more, wonder if it's something more exotic like tungsten disulphide?

The wax - It is interesting stuff but we have toured on bikes, commuted on bikes, raced xc, dh and enduros, raced motorbikes and race cars with chains and when some of the lubes are so good and easy why go to all the trouble? Our experience is chains are best clean, so clean and light oil and they usually bite the dust or need changing for other reasons, long before wearing out or stretching too much over all.
Most likely reason to change in this house is parts of the chain are too stretched or have broken once or twice.
Though my touring bike is 7 or 8 speed (can’t remember) gets oiled with engine oil and is years old! And for authenticity we waxed the 1951 AJS 500 chain!

I used to so much now riding in the 90's than I do now and I have to confess, I only ever used GT85 to lube them without any ill effects.

Now?

I'm a fully paid up snake oil buyer. For better or worse.

I use what ever oil is on offer at my lbs. I use it little and often, usually after evert ride. Dry the chain, oil it, remove excess. I have a couple of oil tester tubes that are small and go in my bag in case I need to re apply mid ride.

From time to time i remove the chain and completely clean and lube.

Life's too short to spend my nights brewing a witches potion and dipping my chain.

Although, TJ what's your address for my chains? I have 4 bikes 😂

Damascus - PM and I'll happily give you my address and treat 4 chains for you. Take me ten mins and cost almost nothing. Seriously.

From time to time i remove the chain and completely clean and lube.

Life’s too short to spend my nights brewing a witches potion and dipping my chain.

The main benefit of wax is you only have to do the former occasionally. And its one step, theres no cleaning involved. The only thing that needs removing is any water (otherwise it will boil).

And you can do as many bikes as you have at the same time.

To paraphrase your own comment, lifes too short to clean chains!

Squirt.

It's not that good a thread.

Dirty boy!

 I seems to show that the molten wax goes from first to last after a few hundred km’s on a single application?

He says why in one of his (very comprehensive) pdfs. While wax is very good at coating the chain, he thinks it has life span issues especially in harsh/wet conditions, as because the wax is solid, it's eventually abraded off (by having gritting water thrown at it) and washed off the chain, so you go from very lubed to no lube at all* in a short time frame. I think even TJ has suggested that a wet peaty ride will see the end of his wax applications.

*He goes onto say that liquid drip lubes also suffer this, but as long as there is 'some' liquid remaining, there will be some lubrication (although this is part lubrication/part liquid sandpaper)

He pretty much rates wax over everything, but concludes that all lubes will wash off given enough of a harsh environment.

Yep, thats my experience, although its worth pointing out that if the conditions have washed the wax off, then everything else would probably be gone too!

Interesting that squirt lasts so much longer when applied in layers (as per the instructions).

I wonder whats in the silca lube that makes it so good (at least in a lab test to the death scenario).

It's a pretty interesting website. Yes, you're right, gritty wet conditions will get rid of any lube in short order is pretty much the takeaway. I think his testing is mostly roadie perspective though. Although he does offer opinions on the best sort of lube for different disciplines CX, Road and XC) and it's mostly for racing; he constantly references watts lost or gained.

I think on reflection the advice: Keep your drivetrain as clean as you can, and choose a lubrication strategy that you'll keep up with, is probably more important than what type of lube you choose from a mountain bike perspective, as a couple of hours in the winter is probably going to strip everything off, and you'll have to re-apply regardless.

Although it's clear that wax is the best overall option. in terms of price and effectiveness, even if it's a pest to apply.

What sort of lifespan are Putoline users getting compared to wet lubes, either in hours/weeks/days or mileage?

Never had a problem with drivetrain life until I started riding an eMTB (which is saving me a lot of time commuting whilst also being great fun). It’s harder to clean and lube because turning the cranks backwards doesn’t turn the chainring and the greater load seems to mean rapid wear when the lube is missing or dirty. I’ve destroyed two chains and cassettes in 1200 miles...

Chief

I get around a thousand miles on the road in winter, more in summer, a couple of hundred miles offroad at least unless the acidic soils strip it out. For example I did a 350 mile 50 / 50 road / offroad tour in decent conditions. Lubed before I went, still plenty left upon return

I think my chainlife is around 4X as long. chainrings longevity is not so greatly improved

as because the wax is solid, it’s eventually abraded off (by having gritting water thrown at it) and washed off the chain,

This is missing the point - the wax comes off the outside of the chain yes - but it remains in the rollers where you need it. sometimes I have had the chains starting to rust on the outside but still full of wax in the rollers which is easily dealt with by a wipe with an oily rag

again I will make the offer - post me a chain and I'll treat it for you

“again I will make the offer – post me a chain and I’ll treat it for you”

Can I send you two?!!

I’m replacing all but the chainring tomorrow because it’s worn to the point it won’t shift properly under load and my plan had been to revert to my previous method of running two chains, keeping one in paraffin and lubing the other with Finishline Wet and swapping them every month or so.

It’s harder to clean and lube because turning the cranks backwards doesn’t turn the chainring

Put a 5mm allen key in one of the chainring bolts.
Problem solved.

This is missing the point

His test, not my words. It looks like he knows what he's talking about. don't worry about it.

cheif no problem - pm me for an address

“Put a 5mm allen key in one of the chainring bolts.
Problem solved.”

This is a good trick!

“cheif no problem – pm me for an address”

Thank you, I will!

putoline in small fat fryer.
Easy and Very effective. Lasts months.

I've used Purple Extreme for years in all weathers. Can get a bit black but never gunky and doesn't wash off easily. Now using Fenwicks professional which is so far so good

I've used most stuff over the years. But a tin of Putoline is arriving tomorrow. Trails are nice and wet and gritty, let's see how it goes 🙂

The key issue for me is how well it allows wet grit to leave the chain. In the grit we get here, the chain ends up with a suspension of grit all over and inside it. If the wax stays on as promised here then the gritty water should bead off and not end up saturating the chain. We'll see.

Don't burn your house down Moley!

Awaits "the red lights come on my fryer" epic molgrips thread.

Can I send you two?!!

Its as quick to do 2/3/4/5/6/7/8/9/10+ as it is one, just chuck them all in the pot at the same time.

Great if you have n+1 issues!

no PM yet chief

I think I'm going to give the putoline a go this winter. Riding more in the Surrey Hills to avoid the South Downs clag the last couple of years and haven't really found a chain lube that can cope with the sandy soil there.

Out of interest, how long does the tin last?

the last tin I had lasted 10 years or so. I have just started my second tin. its a kilo of wax and each application is a few grammes of wax

Forever. Mines now at least 10 years old and the level hasn't noticeably dropped.

But it has got contaminated and gone a bit more greasy and less waxy. Think a phase of cleaning chains in white spirit (which then ends up in the wax) might be the cause. So ive begrugingly ordered a new tin.

Ill keep the old wax to top it up sometime arround 2050!

the last tin I had lasted 10 years or so.

Blimey, that's bloody good. I'm going to use a camping stove as no leccy in the garage, so I'll no doubt manage to knock it all over the floor on my first attempt 🙂

I've ordered a tin for £23 (inc delv) from dirtbikebitz , (just in case anyone else is looking for some).

Don't use an open flame. I wait for a dry day and run an extension out the window.

Can I just add a note of caution here. Science officer whos opinion I respect did not find the same advantages as I do. I have never really got to the bottom of why he didn't.

I heat my tin on the gas hob with no issues. Just do not leave it unattended