Anticipating the forthcoming wave of hipsters readopting obselete technology, we dug out our old portable CD player.

Spins up and I even managed to get sound out of it. Unfortunately it was a touch too quiet. I tried the “up” volume button, and it didn’t work. So, I down button – it worked! Too well. We now have no volume.

So – took the case off, and tried a bit of switch cleaner in the offending switch, but still no dice. Does anyone have any thoughts as to how I can get it working? Happy just to get some volume and leave it, so slightly destructive methods are fine!

The switches are the black buttons at the front.

Any thoughts?

Some pics

Can’t get mine to work either.

Is that the KKK edition?

Don’t suppose it has a line-out as well as headphone jack?

Nope, just headphone.

I think you need to get soldering.

You could perhaps test the function by shorting the normally open connections and see if the machine registers a button press.

gofasterstripes – Member
I think you need to get soldering.

You could perhaps test the function by shorting the normally open connections and see if the machine registers a button press.

Hmm, therein lies a problem. I can’t solder for toffee, and getting at the underside appears tricky. Could I short it by pushing through the switch?

Really hard to tell what would work from here.

It looks like a portable, they’re usually made from the minimum of parts and with the same screws throughout – should imagine it’s easy enough to disassemble.

Have you tried looking on iFixit.com with the model number?

Ahh the portable cd player. 30 seconds of anti skip! Oh yeah!

Got it all apart, and had a go at shorting the switch but still nothing. Oh well…

Can you trace the tracks from the switch, or test the voltage going into the down volume button to see if the up is getting the same feed voltage?

A bit of continuity checking should give you half an idea but tbh I’m not sure it is worth it as they can probably be bought new for 47 pence nowadays.

twonks – Member

Can you trace the tracks from the switch, or test the voltage going into the down volume button to see if the up is getting the same feed voltage?

A bit of continuity checking should give you half an idea but tbh I’m not sure it is worth it as they can probably be bought new for 47 pence nowadays

Nah, that’s a bit beyond my meagre capabilities. Oh well.

Seemingly Argos do a cheapie for £12 – that’ll do!

Jesus wept. Wish I’d not buggered around with it now – it’s one of these: