How much difference do they make over normal 9mm QR forks, will I notice much difference?. I'm look at new forks, possibly Pikes or 55R's. I've only ever had QR axle forks and don't whether to just get a 44R 100-140mm or go with a 20mm fork. It would be for a hardtail and I'll use a 180mm rotor.

I too have only ever used QR forks, but the suggestion from all the reading I've done (both on here from people who have used them and in magazines etc) is that a bolt-through axle does make a difference, particularly when it comes to wheel deflection.
Personally I want to upgrade at some point, but probably wait until secondhand prices are more affordable.

Two aspects – one is the stiffness – theoretically it should be there but I for one cannot feel it alto many state they can.

The other is security. With a 20 mm axle you know your wheel is held in strongly. Thats the bit I like. I would never go back to qr forks.

cant vouch for 26", but on a 29er the stiffness improvement was very noticeable.

Im also with TJ – having closely followed the Pinder v Fox case in court my personal choice is to not use QR on a disc braked bike again if at all possible.

20mm appeals to me in the same way as it does for TJ and Stoner. Surprisingly I noticed 20mm axle more when I'm climbing. Perhaps (and I'm guessing here) the fork is more resistant to deflection and grips a bit harder as a consequence. Dunno, could be placebo to make me feel better about shelling out for £600 fork… 😉

thirded TJ and stoners comments. I've had my front Q/R come loose on more than one occasion on an alpine descent. Never ended in an accident yet thanks possibly to the lawyer lips and me hearing the tinkling that sounds like a loose spoke as the wheel/disc moves around, and stopping to check it out.

My new bike has a 20mm bolt-thru. Dont care whether its stiffer or not!

Worth it in every way, IMO.
If only for the reasons TJ and Stoner say, then it's still worth it.

Also, I'd add that RS' Maxle makes wheel removel and insetion faster and easier as well.

People have been underplaying the improvement in steering accuracy here.

The safety thing is a nice plus for me, but the way the fork goes where I point it much better is the main draw.

I went 20mm and got oversize bars and much bigger tyre all at the same time. There is definitely a difference somewhere there. The Maxle does appear to be very secure.

People have been underplaying the improvement in steering accuracy here.

I think that's rather implied in the overwhelming vote of confidence in the improvement in "stiffness".

I wouldn't buy another non-bolt thru front wheel of fork

About time frames went bolt thru on the rear as standard

I'm with Big dummy – too much changed at once for me to know what to attribute where.

One negative for me. My current bike carrying arrangement is a fork mounted bike rack (you take the front wheel off and plug it into the rack). 20mm axles means buying one of these

Is there a definitive list of all the current axle technologies out there? I've heard all sorts mentioned. 9mm, 12mm, 15mm, 20mm, maxle… some of these are probably the same but I'm a little confused. Must be a pain for hub manufacturers!

Front hub "standards"

30mm – Foes
1" – Oddesy BMX forks in the 90's
25mm – Specialized
24mm – Maverick
20mm – Everyone
15mm – Fox (developed with shimano and a moderate takeup form hub manufacturers)
14mm – nutted BMX axels
9mm – QR (10mm in shimano hubs, but still fits)
n.b. the length of the axel is different as well as the diameter, but i cant list them all.

Rear
10mm x120mm – track hubs, usualy nutted
10mm x126mm – old skool roadie
10mm x130mm – new skool roadie
10mm x132.5 – cotic road rat frame, no one makes this hub, its meant to bend arround 130/135mm hubs.
10mm x135mm- MTB QR or nutted
12mm x135mm- bolt though
12mm x150mm – bolt through with a wider hub to reduce dish (comprimise between 135mm and 165mm)
12mm x165mm – bolt through with a dishless wheel, gives a rubbish chainline though

you missed 142mm the new x12 standard!
http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=1&pk=1314

BMX also comes in 10mm nutted (usually with spaces in 12mm axle slots on the front)

Also doesn't Hope do a 10mm x 135mm bolted hub

I notice the difference a lot, QR front I just seem to get a bit of wondering front wheel syndrome, 20mm just seems to go exactly where you point it! im my case, I just point it in the wrong direction 🙂

yer hope does, i think thats to run in place of QR systems on a 9mm QR bike

thanks for the replies, never had a qr come undone in all my years of riding but from reading the above it looks like it's worth going with the 20mm axle when I change….

or go magura………

very stiff forks

the dropouts are more angled (less disk brake force)

And the lawyer tabs are huggggggggggggeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

One trouble I'm finding is that most of the 20mm front wheels are aimed at the DH/FR guys with not much in the lightweight XC department, just bear in mind that you're not going to get a front wheel at Shimano Deore prices.

Apart from that they do seem to hold their line very well particularly through rooty stuff & for only a slight weight increase I'd say it was worth the trade off.

(Hopefully Hope will make a Maxle Lite aftermarket in a nice bright colour to match their ProII hubs.)

There are also bolt-on hubs (as opposed to bolt through hubs).

Bolt on hubs are where bolts screw into the axle, clamping it in place in the dropout. Phil Wood do bolt on hubs where the bolt is surrounded by a sleeve in order to fit the drop out. The Hope bolt-on rears use a bolt with the correct diameter to fit the drop-out with no sleeve needed.

You can see what I think is the ultimate example of a bolt-on hub here. I wish they made them for mtb!

Now somewhat embarrassing fanboi site here… I failed to take into account the rise of disk brake technology!