MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
Any reason why I shouldn't by a Nikkor F2.8 70-200 off Ebay eg [url= http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Nikon-80-200mm-80-200-f-2-8D-f2-8-ED-Zoom-Lens-L144_W0QQitemZ300359744297QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CamerasPhoto_CameraAccessories_CameraLensesFilters_JN?hash=item45eed5fb29 ]this one[/url]?
Half price compared with UK camera stores, so even if I get hit with full VAT at customs, its way cheaper than buying in the UK.
The lens in the link is a 80-200 f2.8 not a 70-200 f2.8 vr that I assume that you are thinking of. Having said that I personally have the 80-200 f2.8 and find it an awesome lens, I got mine a couple of years ago from http://www.onestop-digital.com/catalog/ and since then they have increased by £200 due to the falling pound but are still a lot cheaper the from the UK. I was a bit uncertain about buying from Hong Kong so I paid by credit card but it was sent (free of charge) fully tracked via Fed Ex and arrived 4 days later. Onestop digital will also pay any import charges if you are unlucky enough to incur any. The 80-200 f2.8 is currently available from them for £665.72 (£14.27 cheaper than ebay) and the 70-200 f2.8 vr for £1282.92. OK the 70-200 f2.8 vr has faster autofocus and vibration reduction but is it really worth another £617.20? I don't think so, anyway I hope this helps you decide.
Cheers Paul
Hey Cheers Paul - didn't spot that there was an 80-200 and 70-200...
How do you find the 80-200 for Sports photography - my GF plays Hockey and want the lens for match photography. My 18-200 VRII isn't fast enough and most shots come out blurred esp on overcast days.
I bought mine predominantly for motocross and find it superb and I dont find the AF a problem as long as you give it a starting point. As for your shots coming out blurred what ISO do you shoot at? I don't like to go above 400 on my D80 but if you have to make sure you have the high ISO NR turned on, try to acheive a shutter speed of at least 1/250 sec and pan the subject even if you think it isn't moving fast enough to it's surprising the difference it makes. If you shoot in raw (providing you have the software to process it ie photoshop elements 5 at least) then you can get away with under exposing your shots by quite a bit to get the required shutter speed and adjusting the exposure afterwards. Finally you can get away with using lot lower shutter speeds if you pan your subject this will give you motion blurred background which emphasises the sharp subject and using a flash set on rear curtain synch will emphasise it even more. There some photos I have taken with the lens here http://www.ephotozine.com/u65152 hope this helps.
Cheers paul

