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[Closed] Why is my house so cold?

 hora
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[#3425467]

100% double-glazed
30c combi-boiler with all recent radiators
No drafts
Front (double-entrance/porch) has a draft seal all round and double-glazed.
Rear room, hallway, stairs and landing are wooden-floored but no gaps.
The living room- v.thick underlay and thick carpet yet its the coldest room.
The loft is insulated (checked)
The walls are pre 1930 brick and we've been told cavity wall insulation isn't possible.

Warm if you keep heating on however literally as soon as it goes off the house is freezing which says to me the house is very inefficient and shouldn't lose heat that quickly. Really scratching my head here.

Anything I can do?!!!


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:14 pm
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Run the heating for longer so as to warm the actual structure inside the house. There are many tons of interior walls, fittings and furniture and it takes several days for all of this mass to warm up. If you keep turning off the heating you don't give it a chance.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:17 pm
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Time to get your thermals out hora

*wolf whistles at hora*


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:18 pm
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Also is it at all damp? Humid air feels colder than equally cold dry air.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:22 pm
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Use heavy curtains and make sure you close them all when it.s dark


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:26 pm
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Haunted.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:26 pm
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The loft is insulated (checked)

how deep? needs to be 300mm ish

100% double-glazed

thick curtains with thermal lining help

with all recent radiators

put a foil reflector on the wall behind the radiator


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:27 pm
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No draughts = no ventilation = damp? Get a dehumidifier?


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:27 pm
 hora
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Lowey. We've got a farmyard figurine toy kit that is almost impossible to fit back into its plastic case and close.

Earlier this week it was neatly packed away. Very neatly and mrshora asked me 3 times if I did it. No.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:30 pm
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my house is cold too, but thats because we just had the fireplace tiled.

Tiler didnt tell us we wouldnt be able to have the fire on for 3 weeks!!!, if I had known that I would have waited until bloody spring!!!!

Me the Mrs and cats are missing the fire!!!! brrrrrrrr!!!


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:33 pm
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No draughts = no ventilation = damp? Get a dehumidifier?

I see what you mean, but draughts and ventilation are two very different things really.

A draught is not controllable and makes your house very cold.
Ventilation is controllable and won't (unless you want it to)


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:34 pm
 hora
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Dehumidifer? Might give it a whirl and hire one from HSS.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:34 pm
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Dehumidifiers are great - you'll be amazed at how much water they pull out!

You may as well buy one as you'll get a good one for around £100

It's also great for drying out your freshly washed clothes - speeds up the process.

Oh! and...

The walls are pre 1930 brick and we've been told cavity wall insulation isn't possible.

DON'T! The cavity is there for a reason. Leave it be.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:49 pm
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I'd say you just need to keep heating the fabric of the house, and just accept the heating bills. I dont run my heating during the day, and on friday night the house wouldn't warm up

With single leaf wall construction I think your only option for significant improvements are to dry line the internal walls with thermal plastboard, or build a cavity, i.e a second wall, seen it done, but I do wonder what the payback would be!


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:54 pm
 hora
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"It's also great for drying out your freshly washed clothes - speeds up the process"

Damp clothes/hard for them to dry indoors at the mo'. Hmmm I'll have a look at argos/amazon etc


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:55 pm
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Why shouldnt Hora's cavity be filled....?

( I dont usually like double entendre's but I do like to slip one in every now and again... )


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 6:56 pm
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Why shouldnt Hora's cavity be filled....?

Pre 1930s and there's unlikely to be a proper cavity to fill


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:00 pm
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I dont usually like double entendre's but I do like to slip one in every now and again.

Oh do you now! 😉


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:01 pm
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Put a jumper on you northern ponce 🙂


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:02 pm
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DON'T! The cavity is there for a reason. Leave it be.

Pathetic, speak to any expert. You need insulation.
Why is it not possible?
Age of the double glazing? Old stuff is thin compared to modern units.
Ditto to the loft insulation, wants to be 300mm. If it's less get more and go 90 deg i.e. across the joists
Dry lining could be an answer


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:02 pm
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Here's the one we got Hora

[url= http://www.amazon.co.uk/Delonghi-148110002-DeLonghi-Compact-Dehumidifier/dp/B000BP81DW ]Amazon link[/url]

I can highly reccomend it, great little unit. Have a look about as I'm sure we paid just under £100 a couple of years ago.

Honestly, you'll be shocked at how much water it pulls!

EDIT:

[url= http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Delonghi-DEM-10-Dehumidifier-NEW-Box-/120821725287?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item1c21893867 ]on Ebay for £105 posted[/url]


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:03 pm
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lol my house is the same !!!! its a victorian terrace and quite big....ech room has high ceilings... so its freezing in winter and warm in summer....lol..
as i type now in the back room my right hand feels like its died...ruddy frostbite i tell ya..


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:06 pm
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How much are you willing to spend on improvements?


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:08 pm
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Keep doors shut upstairs to prevent heat moving to the top of the house.

Tuck curtains behind the radiators to direct heat into the room, rather than into the window.

Got an unused fireplace? I can feel a draft going up mine, you can get a chimney balloon that blocks the chimney, it has a couple of gaps to ensure it remains ventilated and will melt if you light a fire/turn on the gas fire. I just have an empty hearth so I don't have the worry of keeping a gas appliance ventilated so am planning to use the cheap method, apparently you can use the foil inner from a wine box and inflate it in the chimney, with a bit of plastic pipe tucked in the corner to keep some airflow. (the proper thing costs about £25!)


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:14 pm
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My landlord gave us a dehumidifier when I complained about the fact there was enough condensation on my walls that it was running down and getting my stuff wet!
Not only do I now have drier stuff, no more mould and un-infected sinuses I have a much warmer room - although you have to run it regularly so might add on to your bills a bit (I have no idea how much it costs to run - we just accept a big bill cos with 5 students we use lots of power!).
Definitely helps for clothes drying too!


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:20 pm
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Hora, get in touch with teh Energy Saving Trust.. they have loads of grants and stuff...

www.energysavingtrust.org.uk

Really helpful


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:27 pm
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Why is it not possible

perhaps - like my house - there isn't a cavity just a 9" solid wall?


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:33 pm
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Maybe its because your in the Cardboard Box outside the house your describing


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:35 pm
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For flips sake people: The outside temperature's just dropped by 15deg, there is not much heat being stored in the brick your house is built of simply because up untill now it wasn't necessary to heat much to warm the house up.
If you wan't your cavity filled I can highly recommend Leith Docks for this..might be a bit far just for one evening though..


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:40 pm
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try heating on a lower setting but on for longer?


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:44 pm
 hora
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Chickenman true

Grantway eh??


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:44 pm
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chickenman - Member
For flips sake people: The outside temperature's just dropped by 15deg,

[So Hora is lodging in the Wheelie Bin !]


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:46 pm
 hora
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My box is bigger than yours grantway.....and its branded


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:53 pm
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The walls and floors. At best a standard 30s wall is R = 0.5 The floor if it's 25mm boards over a ventilated air space will be around R= 0.3.

If you have 200mm of rock wool or fibreglass in the roof that will be around R = 5 to give you a comparison.

Insulate the walls on the inside or outside depending on space restrictions and budget, 100mm of polystyrene, wood fibre or polyester will bring your wall up to R = 3+. Put 100mm of polyester between the floor joints for R = 3.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:54 pm
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Hora, are you in Greater Manchester? Try [url] http://www.getmetoasty.com/ [/url]
I had a head full of broken biscuits when we were being briefed but all the Greater Manchester council staff were hauled in to be told about it, promote it at every opportunity blah,blah
I seem to remember you get a free survey, cavity wall if needed is free and loft insulation if needed is a maximum charge of £60.
I think AGMA (Association of Greater Manchester Authorities) underwrite it but get 10% more than the cost back fron central govt.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:54 pm
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try heating on a lower setting but on for longer?

[img] http://www.smileys4me.com/getsmiley.php?show=1788 [/img]

+ what chickenman said, but nothing is really going to have a positive effect as long as the garden is being heated up.
This worth a look [url= http://action21.co.uk/existing_buildings.html ]http://action21.co.uk/[/url] as well as the EST stuff.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 7:56 pm
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Is it a solid concrete floor or wooden with joists underneath? Could be a void that is sucking the heat too.

Don't jump to it being condensation. You usually see signs of that like damp patches, condensation on frames / windows in the morning etc


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:04 pm
 hora
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We do get a fair bit of condensation on all upstairs windows (especially) in a morning. Why upstairs? Its abit of a worry when you hear hora jnr coughing like a smoker so I think a dehumidifer is essential.

It is a void under the floor with vents built into the outside walls.

Looking at it, I 'think' its lime? Looks like it at the base of the underfloor void.

Monksie will do. Thank you.

Internal wall lining? Recently decorated so want to avoid


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:12 pm
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Second foil behind radiators.. ESP if on an external wall. Radiators under windows used to be the done thing but think it just leaks heat? Think you can get interior insulating platerboard or panels that go onto exterior of property adding a good 50mm of insulation.. All the housing associations are doing it up here to the council houses..


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:12 pm
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We do get a fair bit of condensation on all upstairs windows in a morning. Why upstairs?

Heat rises.

Plus I'm guessing your bedrooms are upstairs? The human body produces a lot of H2O as a byproduct of breating.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:19 pm
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Do you have small vents built in to the frame of the windows? These need to be open to allow some air flow and prevent condensation. A dehumidifier is no substitute for proper ventilation.

The void under the floorboards is sucking heat. It is a crap job but suggest insulation under there as Edukator mentioned. Very similar to a case study I looked at the other month. You need to lift the floorboards - sorry.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:25 pm
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Or dig access from the outside or from a trap you make in the floor.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:30 pm
 hora
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Tootall - How about a plastic undersheet that sits ontop of the floorbboards similar to pond-liner? (If such a product exists)

I don't like bare floorboards anyway and was thinking of a jute or coir weave carpet in the hallway/stairs/landing and backroom


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:30 pm
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I live in a Victorian terrace. I notice that the front room is a lot colder than the rear. The front is a wooden floor and the rear is concrete. I was advised by an architect to put some insulation in the cellar under the wooden floor. Didn't bother but probably not expensive. (I have some plasterboard type stuff as a ceiling in cellar so insulation could go in here).

[Hijack]BTW house is for sale if anyone interested in something near Derby city centre and nice park [/Hijack]


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:36 pm
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With the best of the multi-layer insulators (layers of aluminium, polythene and polyester) you can get R = 2.3 for only 30mm. It's impermeable though. My favourite insulator at the moment in potentially damp situations is recycled polyester. I've got the thicker R = 3.05 version of [url= http://www.castorama.fr/store/Isolant-fibre-polyester-80mm-prod5850002.html?navAction=push&navCount=6 ]this polyester[/url] under my floor boards.


 
Posted : 04/12/2011 8:41 pm
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