[Closed] Who knows about stud walls?

just stick rock wool inside and use the 12mm plasterboard over the top.

Use CLS timber, available from B and Q, its straight as oposed to rough sawn,insulate the voids with recyledd insulation made from pop bottles, less irritation than fibreglass.
Be careful where you nail the sole and top rails to as there may well be pipes or cables .

Thicker wall board will be stronger and resist bangs better.

oh and its lath, a lathe is used for turning circular objects. 😀

Can I add another related Q? Is there anything you can fill the cavity with to improve sound proofing. Listening to my wife go to wee in the on- suite in the middle of the night gets on my wick!

Cool, Thanks

Matt

double up the boards for sound insulation, or use proper sound boards.

project advises wisely.

Def worth spending on CLS timber. Saves messing around. And make inconspicuous marks where your studs are when it comes to hanging shit off the wall.

plop_pants - Member
Can I add another related Q? Is there anything you can fill the cavity with to improve sound proofing. Listening to my wife go to wee in the on- suite in the middle of the night gets on my wick!

Posted 5 minutes ago # Report-Post

Use rolled up copies of Singletrack, youll know theyre being put to a good use, or just tell her to shut the door.

With CLS, buy the longest lengths, and cut to size, using the offcuts for the cross pieces saves a bit of cash and timber.

If it's a lath wall, he's already got a perfectly useable stud in place.

Use 12.5 boards and double up. Cheaper and more effective than single acoustic boards.

Fill the void with isover slabs and trim to size. Probably 65mm thick, maybe 50mm.
Screw the boards to the stud, DO NOT use nails.
If you're building a new stud, again, use screws not nails. 3x2 is standard timber to use but I always try to use 4x2 if poss. It's much more solid.

Funky best reply so far.

Oh and don't buy the longest lengths, they cost more per meter. Long straight lengths are harder to get from the trees so attract a premium. They're much more difficult to handle and they go up to 4m in most places, even 6m!

If you're planning on getting it skimmed, buy 6x3 plaster boards instead of 8x4. They're far easier to work with for a diyer. If you're gonna do a dryline job, buy tapered edge boards in 8x4 size and use either easyfil or my preference, allset extra

Cheers wrighty, one pro to another 😉

[Hijack] I'm about to plasterboard a full room then have it skimmed. Are tapered boards the ones to go for then the joints can be taped etc.

Thanks

If skimmed stabdard boards i think. Tapered edge is for dry-lining, which looks crap.

Yeah you want square edge mate. Tapered edge boards form a channel along the edges when butted up. This then gets scrim tape in, them filled. On need to plaster the whole wall. If you're good, it's much faster and cleaner than skimming the whole room. Done right, it looks perfect but not as durable. It's very hard to get it right on walls, ceilings not so difficult.

Are you fixing to studs or boarding to brick?

I'm fixing to studs. It was my intention to fit the boards myself then get a plasterer to tape the joints and skim the whole room. Thanks.

Ah, you'll be reet then. Was gonna try and talk you out of it if you were dry walling on to brick. Use coarse thread drywall screws, 32 or 38mm. NOT bloody wood screws lol

White side out and cut using a decent blade on the white side first. You'll get a better edge

Cheers guys, that lot should keep me going.

Matt

Ah, you'll be reet then. Was gonna try and talk you out of it if you were dry walling on to brick. Use coarse thread drywall screws, 32 or 38mm. NOT bloody wood screws lol

White side out and cut using a decent blade on the white side first. You'll get a better edge

Still using square edge boards or tapered as I'm going for a full room plaster job??

Thanks

Square edge if you're skimming over. as mentioned above, taper edge is for drylining.

Cool. Thanks