What is that lump of scrap?Â
50yr old but never used replica Brough Superior frame with J.A.P. vee twin engine & other Brough parts. Some rare proper Broughs can be worth a few quid.
https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-cornwall-36129038
Sold my BMWR1100S and Yamaha R6 in 2010, kids etc. Was happily obsessed with cycling until an attempt to buy a used Giant TCR frame fell through following paying off my final C2W instalment on the gravel bike. With the money earmarked for the TCR build sat about, last summer watching a documentary series about a well known pair of friends tootling about in Scandinavia on classic bikes created a lightbulb moment, and with Mrs Davy's endorsement a classic bike purchase was agreed. Summer motorcycle touring here we come (again).
Airheads are allegedly bullet proof, easy to work on and reliable - which may be true. Since purchase I've overhauled the carbs, front suspension and engine and drive train. Some I've done myself, some I've had to outsource. It has cost more than the purchase price (and some) to repair.... the old "and whilst you're in there, you may as well check x for play/wear etc... guess what, x is knackered, but it won't take long to fix and it would be daft to ignore it as I already have the engine/gearbox/final drive in bits......"
The brakes are still pants but it looks great and goes plenty fast enough.
Damn you Ewan and Charlie...
1978 BMW R100RS, with an S fairing.
[img] 
[/img]
Normally don't use the c90 at night as the headlamp is really bad but last couple of weeks I haven't had the car available. After last week's having to ride at 10mph as I couldn't see the surface on our road well enough this week saw the deployment of my halfords mtb light.
 
Â
It worked brilliantly; far, far better than the stock light, I could actually see the road ahead and didn't need the headlight on - would recommend.
Not affiliated at all to this but if there is a place like this in Dundee, there must be more of the same across the UK?
Barnstormers Used Classic Barnfind Motorcycles in Dundee Scotland
1996, my ZX7R needs its carbs replacing after a rebuild, one day it'll run again as I miss the noise.
Mmm will try again with a picture soon
Right, a question for you consideration. I've got a new O ring chain to fit to the Honda. I was watching a YouTube last night that suggested quite high friction losses for these chains, about 1hp.
Now given my 125 only had about 14hp from the factory, and likely a bit less now that's quite a large percentage. Is running a non-O ring chain a thing? Unlikely I'll be using it much in crappy weather.Â
I would imagine its really a % and I cannot believe you would notice the difference ie 1 bhp on a 100bhp bike, 0.1 bhp on a 10 bhp bike
Also once a non o ring chain is filthy and worn the losses would be high
Just a guess tho
But, given it's an old bike, would you be running at peak power and hp, i.e thrashing it, to notice a possible percentage loss?
I would imagine its really a %
My engineering mind would have it that you're still bending 50ish links around the sprockets, so no matter the input power, the losses will be the same. Engine speed should mean a bit of variation, less at lower revs.Â
Also once a non o ring chain is filthy and worn the losses would be high
That I can believe, especially from a Putoline disciple. 😁
But, given it's an old bike, would you be running at peak power and hp,
On a roads to maintain a decent speed and uphills I imagine so actually!
But no, I won't notice a difference because I'm still working through it's issues and haven't ridden it yet.
Thanks gents, I think on balance I'll just go with the chain I have for now.Â
My engineering mind would have it that you're still bending 50ish links around the sprockets, so no matter the input power, the losses will be the same. Engine speed should mean a bit of variation, less at lower revs.Â
My thought is the friction is related to the force thru the chain ie the pressure inside the links - so lower power =less force =less friction
This is the YouTube video I was watching. Presenter has a scientific background I believe. His point was definitely about rotational fiction between the compressed rubber O rings and chain plates.Â
I suspect this efficiency loss is why push bike chains haven't adopted this design, or maybe they really are just too small make this way.Â
I'm on battery roulette at the moment. Battery on the Harley went flat last week, I'd only used it a couple of times since early December and didn't have a battery tender on it. Wouldn't take a trickle charge so put it on a charger and it started. Put the tender back on it and it was fine until yesterday when the tender went from ok to showing the battery had no charge. Strangely it still started fine so I either have a dodgy tender or a fubared battery. Happy days.
Mine is on a 20 year old optimate which seems ok so far..
Put new discs and pads in yesterday.. rained today so no test ride yet to see if I've improved the terrible front brakes.. garage queen 🙄 😎Â
Mine is on a 20 year old optimate which seems ok so far..
Mine was either made by child labour or a prisoner in a Chinese re-education facility so it may be of less than high quality. I'm probably just going to get a new battery.
Did my CBT today. Not ashamed to admit I found it hard to transition from 2 bike brakes on the bars to the front brake/rear foot brake combo along with all the other controls in unfamiliar positions to a car driver.Â
In fact I even managed to fall on while doing some additional slow speed u-turn in the road practice while on the road ride part. Still gave me the certificate.Â
Double post.Â
Did my CBT today. Not ashamed to admit I found it hard to transition from 2 bike brakes on the bars to the front brake/rear foot brake combo along with all the other controls in unfamiliar positions to a car driver.Â
Try riding a motocross bike with big plastic boots on. Hardest thing I've ever done.
Now to get yourself a 125 and practice, practice, practice...also worth getting bigger bike** training to get a feel for it, It's worth it in the end, from someone just getting into it over last few years 🙂
** suggest going for lighter weight lower end big to start with;)
Yeah, I'm currently "enjoying" that particular learning curve...Did my CBT today. Not ashamed to admit I found it hard to transition from 2 bike brakes on the bars to the front brake/rear foot brake combo along with all the other controls in unfamiliar positions to a car driver.Â
Try riding a motocross bike with big plastic boots on. Hardest thing I've ever done.
Now to get yourself a 125 and practice, practice, practice.
That was the origin story of this thread cvilla. See the first photo!Â
I got it running on Saturday, but it cuts out on idle so still a little bit to do, starting with cleaning the Carburettor jets I think because it had been run around with no fuel filtration for a white.Â
Right, I've hit a bit of an issue. As part of the starting reliably improvement I decided to check the ignition timing. The picture below shows where I had to advance it to, (right hand arrow) compared to the alignment mark. (Left arrow). Should be a couple of degrees of adjustment top, this is way off!
The advance mechanism and points are mounted to the cam shaft, but I've not messed around with that so the only thing I can think is the advance mechanism is misaligned, either on the location pin or the cam is rotated on its shaft somehow. Anyone got any other suggestions? The engine rotates smoothly without any suggestion the valves are hitting the cylinder so I don't suspect cam timing.Â
Is the left arrow the timing mark or is it the tang sticking down between your two arrows?
The line in the casting just to the left of the tang.Â
My point is, are you sure that line is the timing mark, it seems odd having that tang, which looks like a timing mark.(Ianamechanic!)
The Haynes manual shows the line as the timing mark, and where there are tang type indicators on the engine they have a V notch for accuracy.
You could try to back everything off and start from scratch. Is it a timing chain, or belt? My timing chain was heavily worn which meant I ran out of adjustment and no amount of tinkering would get the timing spot on. Got that replaced (amongst other things) and the bike is now running like a tappetty swiss watch...
I'd set the ignition timing on that CB125 using the TDC mark on the crank and a light bulb to show the points opening rather than relying on any marks on the points carrier.
Talking of old motorbikes, really nice restoration video this.Â
I'd set the ignition timing on that CB125 using the TDC mark on the crank and a light bulb to show the points opening rather than relying on any marks on the points carrier.
That's the approach I've taken, and having done as Davy suggested and started again, including checking the advance mechanism was installed correctly, it's ended up in the same position.Â
Is it a timing chain, or belt? My timing chain was heavily worn which meant I ran out of adjustment and no amount of tinkering would get the timing spot on.
It is a chain. I really don't want to have to strip the engine, but a good suggestion if it continues to be flakey.Â
Think I'm just going to try and run it again later.
This conversation has genuinely helped. I'm going to check the cam timing just to make sure it's not jumped and then reset the chain tension. Looks like it's only 2 extra bolts to get the cam sprocket cover off.Â
Right, I've made my peace with the timing, it ran OK last weekend although by the time I'd understood the fundamental error in setting the idle speed/mixture, I ran out of time to actually ride it.Â
So I thought I'd just make some checks last night for this weekend and found that the front brake light switch doesn't work. 🤬 And also the throttle is sticking open again despite managing to lubricate the twist grip and route the cable nicely previously. 🤬🤬 New switch ordered, though I'm not entirely sure what to do about the throttle because it just relies on the carburettor to pull it all closed.Â
Did we get a ruling on how old is old? Regardless my present bikes are a 2005 883 sportster, a red 1996 Honda C90, a blue 1992 Honda C90 and a bsa which is a pile of old cack.
I was going to post my (even slightly older) Sportster, but I don't think it's a classic. In my head I think the definition of old/classic is the ignition system.Â
To be classic in the absolute sense of the word it has to have points (or something equally mechanical). Allowances can be made for bikes that were in production long enough that fundamentally the same bike was upgraded to some form of electronic ignition.
But if someone said "Classic Sportsbike", "Classic Trials", "Classic dirt bike" etc. Then that's different, it just has to be measurably worse than a modern one. So a 90s Fireblade is a classic. A similar age monoshock trials bike isn't, but a pre-65 is. A Yamaha XT500 is a classic dirt bike, and XT600 isn't despite arriving only 3 years later. An XT550 is the awkward missing-link, the exception that proves the rule. It's worse than a modern bike, but it's just too ugly to be a "classic".
Paid a mechanic to fettle the OP Honda, it started and went but horrible misfire at higher revs. Past tense there because now it won't even start! 🤬 Of the basic test I've done to try and diagnose before I get him back, this is the compression reading. Obviously can only do it cold, but this is low. I reckon he's cocked up the valve clearances.Â
Started changing fork seals and fitting Hagon springs on the Harley Sportster yesterday, never done fork seals before so bit trepidatious. Set up a work station outside, sockets, imperial spanners, both metric and imperial allen keys and impact. Went ok up to a point. All the bits I feared weren't that hard, although seating the new seal was a pig. Unfortunately it's a twenty one year old bike and I don't think the seals had ever been looked at let alone changed and as a result the dust seals are completely beyond saving, fortunately they don't come in the rebuild kit and obviously I only noticed this when just putting the first fork back together. So I've had to order them and put everything else on hold. On the plus side this means the little Honda c90 is getting more use.
I don't think the seals had ever been looked at let alone changed
Reminds me of changing fork oil on a mates old Suzuki T250*, a few inches of silver worm emerged from the drain hole before any oil appeared 🤨
* otherwise known as "old smokey" the worst handling bike I have ever had the misfortune to ride.
Well we've managed to **** it. Low compression put down to badly scored bores. Top end rebuild, I can do that, not horribly expensive and a new learning experience. But while investigating have managed to smash the kickstart mechanism, which means a FULL engine rebuild and who knows what other horror's may lurk. 💸💸😭
But after already spending a little chunk of cash on it, would seem a real shame to just scrap it, so I really dunno what to do.Â
I also started with a Honda 125 (2016 model) not looked after but functions, until exhaust valve broke a bit off, no compression, que a re-build (no kick start thingie tho'), all part of motorcycling experience 😉
Also 125 bikes do sell, either for commuting, cheap motorcycling or for learners, so worth it if you want to tinker.
I just dragged mine out of the shed it's been mouldering for 3 years,and... uh, pushed it to the new house, and parked it in the garden. Poor thing has never lived outdoors in its almost 3 decades, it won't know what hit it.Â
Started changing fork seals and fitting Hagon springs on the Harley Sportster yesterday, never done fork seals before so bit trepidatious. Set up a work station outside, sockets, imperial spanners, both metric and imperial allen keys and impact. Went ok up to a point. All the bits I feared weren't that hard, although seating the new seal was a pig. Unfortunately it's a twenty one year old bike and I don't think the seals had ever been looked at let alone changed and as a result the dust seals are completely beyond saving, fortunately they don't come in the rebuild kit and obviously I only noticed this when just putting the first fork back together. So I've had to order them and put everything else on hold. On the plus side this means the little Honda c90 is getting more use.
Hopefully you did better than mine's previous owner, who smashed them in with a flat headed screwdriver! No wonder they leaked.
A selection of various pieces of pipe and various fittings from B&Q to use as presses makes it a lot easier.
The only trouble I had was ending up with oil everywhere, every time you think you've drained it all, you move something and another glug of horrible oil comes out. Then rebuilding, I held the fork, filled it with oil, put it down, turned around to pick up the socket to get the top cap back on, and turned back to watch the stanchion slowly sliding down into the lowers and the oil overflowing all over the floor!  Next time I'll put a wrap of masking tape on the stanchions to stop them sliding down whilst filling them. On the upside, clearly much less friction!
At some point I think I still need to drop another ~2" of oil out of the forks as they are now too progressive with the hyperpro springs, or maybe the springs have more metal in them that displaces the oil. Either way it's still not getting the last ~2" of travel even when the (also uprated) rear shocks are nearly bottoming out.
