Forum menu
I've always enjoyed modelling and I definitely enjoy the end result but what I cannot stand is painting. It just doesn't seem to work...ever. How do I make it happen?
I just bought this [img]
[/img] and after giving it a base coat of black spray paint I just cannot seem to get the colour correct. Which paint is best?
Why did you give it a base coat of black? General rule is go lighter to darker, painting on black will always 'tint' the colours on top.
It's the only spray I had in lol.
It even had the paint with it...
Follow the paint chart, use decent paint and practice - like most things in life.
Traditionally, undercoat has always been neutral grey, or occasionally, white. Never black, especially when the base plastic is grey...
Don't paint it...hang it in the garden and airgun it to bits....the joy of modelling is in the making 8)
Think there's a few on here that are really into their modelling* with some stunning examples they've produced. Sure they'll be along soon
*keep it clean please!
harrier GR3 in green & grey. IIRC the undersurfaces were a paler shade of grey than the upper surfaces.
if you're spraying, you'll need bigger pots of paint than those little thimbles.
Don't add the undercarriage, it's a bugger to mask. same goes for brittle bits, leave them until after. If a modern military aircraft, the underwing pylons often get in the way of the decals, so if that's the case, leave those off for now as well.
mask off the cockpit canopy with Maskol & spray the whole thing with the palest shade of grey. Then mask off the demarcation between upper and lower surfaces with Tamiya masking tape - not the 2in wide decorator's masking, although you can use that on the undersides of the wings/stabiliser. spray the upper surface the next darkest shade of grey.
mask off the bits you want to keep in camouflage grey, again using Maskol - just paint it on using a cotton bud (it eats paintbrushes), in the camouflage pattern - and when the maskol is dry, spray the whole upper surface green. Allow plenty of drying time in between each coat. Peel off the maskol and masking tape to reveal the camouflage patterns.
next - the decals. .
I spray the whole kit with a coat of gloss, then when that's dry, apply the decals. Spray another coat of gloss, then a coat of matt if it's a military kit.
Remove the masking from the cockpit canopy and add the undercarriage & any other small breakables. Finito
here's one I did earlier; I did the camo pattern freehand:
[IMG]
[/IMG]
my old man builds tons of models and says that Tamiya paint is the best and well worth the money
Sod the model! Dunlop Tortex plectrums? Show us your guitar(s) 🙂
the picks are there for scale 😉 my guitars are nowt to write home about, it's all in the name...
It's a MiG-21 in 1:48 scale, by Academy IIRC. I find 1:72 a bit fiddly for planes and 1:32 or bigger, too big.
I like AFVs in 1:48 and 1:35, cars in 1:24, bikes in 1:12
I made this the other day, it had been sitting in my son's room waiting for him to make but he's not shown any interest.
SE5a which is a boring name for a very nice bi-plane.
I sprayed it white first, gave a really nice base to paint on, but it was a fairly simple job really, only took a couple of hours.
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8518/8353923429_db69f456b2_b.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8518/8353923429_db69f456b2_b.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url=
[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/10675959@N02/ ]nickgilling[/url], on Flickr
nice 🙂
OP, you may be able to clean off the paint you've applied so far so you can start again.
Good idea to wash the model before you start. You want it to be free of grease etc before you start painting. Use a sinkful of luke-warm water, a little washing up liquid and maybe an old toothbrush. Obviously best to do this before you've added any small fiddly bits, or applied any water based paint. Put the sink plug in obviously. Wash the model, rinse and leave it a day to air-dry, protected from dust if possible.
Before applying, mix the paint really well - ie until you start getting bored. And then mix it some more. Consider thinning the paint - those little pots you get in gift sets can be quite thick IME. Several thin coats always better than one heavy coat. And the little brushes you have there probably aren't the best, either - definitely invest in some more if you want to get more into the hobby.
Plenty of friendly modelling forums out there where you'll probably get better advice.
Cool. Loads of great advice guys thanks. It was only a tenner to buy that kit so I can just kinda...paint it I guess and IDK maybe fly it from the top floor of a London skyrise next time I'm visitng...
I understand that those paints are definitely not the best. I was kinda hoping some-one could suggest me a highly recommended brand for good even coats. Try and try again. I enjoy putting it all together I just want to make a really good job painting it. Thanks for all the advice.
Humbrol
Debenhams were/are doing a half metre long spitfire for £18 from £60 if that's your cup of tea!
Revell, Tamiya, Humbrol acrylics are all good. Humbrol paint codes are what Airfix use but there are colour conversion charts available.
I used to do these a lot as a kid and can't think for the life of me why you'd need to undercoat them!
The paints are designed to go on plastic and the models just sit on a shelf getting dusty, so the paint ain't going anywhere is it.
I always undercoat mine with a Halfords acrylic grey primer spray can.
If you're brush painting it I'd use Humbrol paint well thinned, it's better to do a couple of thin coats rather than one thick one. Tamiya paints are great for spraying but dry a bit too quickly for brush painting.
Just finished this one over the Christmas break, sorry not a military kit.
I have had this kit for a few years, but never had the time to build it, forgot how much fun they are to make, must be 35 years since I did the last one, made a few mistakes, but found the Tamiya acrylics paints great to use, no primer needed, dry quick.
Now I need to do the other two classic Mini's kits I have 😉
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8356576831_4152e2c13b_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8378/8356576831_4152e2c13b_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/scotiedog/8356576831/ ]7[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/scotiedog/ ]scotiedog[/url], on Flickr
Tamiya 1:24 Mini Cooper 1275S Rally Model Kit
always been fond of Tamiya acrylics, water soluble and brushes last longer (forever) as there's not the build up of crud you can get with enamels.
Can someone please explain the appeal of these things to grown men?*
* and yes, models do appeal to me - but the rational bit of my brain asks "why?"
[i]Can someone please explain the appeal of these things to grown men?*[/i]
I wondered that - but my father-in-law does them, he's in his 70s and he's a member of a modelling club.
I think it's whats known as a "Hobby". 🙂
(I used to dislike the building part, but I was awesome at painting the little details (about 35 years ago, when I could still see))
Use decent brushes - get them from an artist supply shop, the ones sold in model/hobby shops are generally very cheap and nasty. Decent brushed are not cheap but they will keep their shape, and not shed bristles. If you can afford sable brushes so much the better.
A trick miniature painters use when the model is to be mainly darker colours is to use black undercoat, which then provides you with your deepest level of shadow when you're shading it. You then paint the model by building up progressive layers (normally 2 for a quickish job) of lighter colours. (*Note this method not suitable for those who are just looking for a "paint by numbers" approach)Traditionally, undercoat has always been neutral grey, or occasionally, white. Never black, especially when the base plastic is grey...
The other best "trick" for making a model look great in minimal time is highlighting by "drybrushing". Takes a bit of practice to get the technique but once you have it it's dead quick and gives excellent results. An undercoat, 2 layers of colour and one or two applications of drybrushing can give awesome results and really make a model look great compared to just flat colours.
I would recommend looking at some miniatures (warhammer, etc) painting websites/forums for tips and to look at examples of incredible painting. You can take models to the next level by incorporating dirt/rust/corrosion effects which are actually quite simple to do.
I'm in no rush to actually finish the job, it's just 'there' in it's place, being added to bit by bit and hence there is no rush, I'd like to do the job well. I shall maybe give up a bit on this one and just paint it green/grey freehand camo with a brush for now and purchase another kit before the end of the month to start in February...
I might even make a "Watch my progress through the year" series thing to see how I've progressed...perhaps on an actual modelling forum though...maybe...
In regards to the Mini, looks awesome! I like all types of models, not just military, but I just like jets and planes alot, so will probably do more some red arrows one time and other military planes.
Can anyone suggest me a website to buy some model kits? Is Airfix pretty well regarded or are there better ones?
Get yourself down to the local model shop (if one still exists), browse the shelves, rush home with kit in brown paper bag and spend rest of day making it. 🙂
I keep looking at getting a model to build, but always get put off when you see the list of 15 colours required that are going to cost £40 for a £10 model.
Probably not gonna do one very often, so hard to justify the cost.
I know most of the colours are for the details, but if I was to do one, I'd want to do it right.
What do most people do, just ignore the tiny dots of paint or pay for every colour?
Can someone please explain the appeal of these things to grown men?
Never trust a man that doesn't have a hobby. Hitler didn't have any hobbies, you know.
Tamiya are/were the best kits IMO.
I know most of the colours are for the details, but if I was to do one, I'd want to do it right.
What do most people do, just ignore the tiny dots of paint or pay for every colour?
To be honest, I like to get the colour right in the sense that, if it's a Ferrari, I'm gonna paint it red, because it should be red, not pink because I have lots of pink paint spare. I wouldn't spend time painting tiny (5mm?) areas that are only going to be noticed after someone's picked it up and been looking for a while. Of course things like the tyre of the Harrier I will paint black etc. You get the idea lol.
[i]rush home with kit in brown paper bag and spend rest of day making it. [/i]
Yeah, let the bloody kids starve! 🙂
Older airfix cats can be appalling. Newer ones in red boxes much better. Revell, Tamiya, Academy, Italeri, Hasegawa, Trumpeter all good.
I'll sort a link for online model shop when I get home, but you should be able to find Model Zone with a bit of googling.
I started making these lil kits (AMT / ERTL) when the Mrs went back to work on nights, and I had to stay home to look after the lil un's.
Kindga got carried away buying 70's and 80's Kits from the USA on Ebay and ended up buying a *"AT-AT-Ron" from Australia for 1000$Aus He's the BIG fella at the front (Stands about 18"-24" high!).
* a AT-AT-Ron is a "kit" in the loosest sense, a guy called Ron (don't know his surname) was a prop maker on the original films, and made a few "spare" casts from the original moulds when they finished filming, he then sold them on slowly over the years.... so this a "replica" in the truest sense of the word of a ACTUAL screen used AT-AT.
I think that's Pretty AWESOME 😀
Make lovely pets too...
john_drummer - Membergreen & grey.
Nice. 😉
[url= http://www.scale-models.co.uk/forum.php ]Friendly scale modelling forum[/url]...
...they'll sort you out with everything you need - great online shop too (I'm not affiliated!).
Here's one I made earlier, happy modelling!
Nice Spit munkster!
"Can anyone suggest me a website to buy some model kits? Is Airfix pretty well regarded or are there better ones?"
+1 for munkster's link, I've used them loads of times. very quick delivery.
This is also a good shop with quick delivery http://www.hannants.co.uk/
Decide what model you want to build and then find out which company makes the best kit of it, they all have their good and bad kits.
adi66 - you don't hang about on here by any chance do you?
[url= http://www.therpf.com/ ]http://www.therpf.com/[/url]
If not there is some amazing work on here, some guys really get into making their AT-AT's as exact as possible (by exact I mean "as the model in the film" - I'm well aware they don't exist in real life)
That is a lovely spit.
Have been resisting the temptation to get a 1:48 Bf109F in desert colours 😳
I've just bought that Spit munkster lol. 1:48 Revell. Damn the standards have been set high...
How about a Typhoon....
[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8358212831_8c1e10600d_z.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8358212831_8c1e10600d_z.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/jimmygrainger/8358212831/ ]Typhoon[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/jimmygrainger/ ]jimmyg352[/url], on Flickr
From this site...
http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?act=idx
[i]Can someone please explain the appeal of these things to grown men?*
* and yes, models do appeal to me - but the rational bit of my brain asks "why?"[/i]
It's like Harleys innit. 'If I have to explain, you wouldn't understand'
My Spitfire is actually by ICM (but indeed 1:48!) - wouldn't recommend the kit personally - bit of a swine to put together from a "fit" point of view.
