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A couple more stupid questions. I cut the first/introductory ride short, is there anyway I can go back and complete it?
And not really a Zwift question but a setup question..... Due to confined space I’m running my bike with the bars straight but the wheel turned 90 degrees, obviously it isn’t stable, does anyone do a qr fork stand/support? I’ve spotted some that are for use on rollers, but I can’t find anything for turbo use
Thanks!
Not a question but definitely stupid🤪 on my 5th week of zwift build me up.... only just discovered the 100% plus or minus under the workout details increased the difficulty... I thought it was the font size for old buggers! Wondering why it doesn't get easier to read!
On the bright side I'm working 10% harder so must be getting better?
@scotroutes My laptop (10th gen i5) will run zwift at 1080p but I have to drop down to 720p to capture it to video. I'm sure it's picking up on one of the lowest graphics settings, but I never notice any substandard visuals. I'd only upgrade if I was much more fussed about the fancy graphics that are available if you get a proper GPU (I don't care) or if I wanted to record/stream in full HD (I might do this incidentally, but not as the sole motivation). So a recent 2nd hand laptop is in principle fine for zwift.
BUT especially if it's just for zwift, it'll be more economical to get a used small business desktop (HP LFF thing, ebay is flooded with them permanently) and stick a Nvidia gpu in it. Total cost can be pretty low if you are patient.
If you select a Zwift course and complete it what happens when you reach the finish and carry on riding. Does it take you around the same course again?
@shinton yes usually it will continue on a second lap unless you manually select a different direction with the arrow keys on the app or screen, when you are approaching a junction.
@oopnorth cheers for that. Daughter did Greater London Loop yesterday and wants to do a similar work out around New York tomorrow. Looks like 2 laps around Park Perimeter Loop should do it.
Latest questions from new!
I’m running Zwift on iPad 7 with Companion on iPhone
1. What is ERP? Zwift says i should turn it off for sprints using companion app but I can’t see how to do this? Does it matter?
2. On the left under the intervals is a green star and number like 3/25. What does this indicate?
3. Is it normal for Zwift to burn 50% of iPad battery in one 50 min session?
4. What sort of witchcraft do I have to employ to get a heart rate readout from an Apple Watch which says it’s connected in Zwift app but says unpaired on the actual watch
5. How does Zwift know my cadence? I’m using a taxc trainer that doesn’t have cadence sensor on it? Is it magic?
Cheers
1. ERG - ergonometer mode. Trainer sets resistance. Obviously can't work for all out sprinting.
2. How well you stuck to the target power.
3. Yep.
4. Dunno.
5. The trainer estimates cadence by looking for power peaks.
I've a question, why when on the turbo do my strengths and weaknesses seem to swap?
Being over 96 kg, in real life I'm stronger on the flats and downhill than climbs obviously. I'm not a terrible climber and when I had a singlespeed I could stomp up most stuff but obviously I'm definitely stronger on the flat.
In Zwift I seem to be way stronger on the climbs than on the flat, it's like I run out of gears.
I also struggle on a climb when the trainer goes past it's maximum gradient the resistance feels too low and I have to spin faster than I'd want to maintain power.
It's a Tacx flow, I have noticed the cadence is no where near correct, which made the MTB low cadence training impossible.
Are you using your MTB on the trainer?
Ultimately you might need to change to a smaller cassette.
On my road bike, unfortunately. I think I just need a better than entry level trainer.
It’s a Tacx flow, I have noticed the cadence is no where near correct, which made the MTB low cadence training impossible.
I've got a wheel-on BKool, and had the same problem which I solved by getting a cheap Ant+ cadence sensor. The BKool estimation was way off and basically completely useless. I'm not sure if it's the case with the Flow, but the BKool is also pretty crap if you stand up - the back wheel slips on the roller and the power sensor takes a couple of seconds to adjust.
@Houns - get something like this and mount it on a block of wood?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/VOSAREA-Mountain-Release-Bicycle-Transporting/dp/B08DV742CV/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=151EJSLRZ8MUP&dchild=1&keywords=quick+release+fork+mount
Couple of questions from the session I’ve just done. I rode knickerbocker, I haven’t changed any of my settings however on some of the descents the trainer resistance really kicked in, then the opposite on some of the climbs the resistance really backed off. How come? My previous 4/5 rides since I first started haven’t done this
Secondly is there anyway of seeing how many km you have left on a ride?
Mogrim I think that’s going to have to be my solution
Hmm do I need to RTFM? I’ve just done a workout/training plan, ‘back to fitness up and down’. The cool downs were harder than the actual ramps... I had to stay a steady 70 watts for 5 minutes, however the resistance on my trainer cranked right up that I had to shift in to 1st gear and pedal at 28rpm (counted whilst using the timer) and I could only manage to get my watts down to the high 80’s due to the resistance being so high. What’s going on here? Same with my point above, I would’ve thought the resistance would’ve backed right off? (I was in erg mode for the training)
You're in erg mode, the slower you pedal the harder the resistance gets. It's stupid and I hate it. Speed up, and the resistance will fall away.
Erg mode doesn't keep the resistance constant, it keeps the power you need to generate constant. So if you slow down, it has to increase the resistance.
Ok I get that for the training plans (even though that means pedalling for 70 watts is a harder effort than pedalling for 150 watts) but for my previous post it was happening on a normal route, I hadn’t changed any of the settings since the previous rides where I didn’t have this issue at all....So now when I hit the descent and expect a breather I’ve got to really crank the pedals to move along
0-100W is a really difficult range for most turbo trainers. It sounds like it might be worth re-calibrating it because 70W as a target seems unusually low - it's the bike equivalent of a very slow walking pace.
You could try a custom workout with some steps ranging from 50W > 200W and see if it behaves as you'd expect.
Erg mode problems can be powered through usually... or anticipated so change gear just before cadence change required... I was in same boat pedalling squares and ready to sell turbo but with a bit of practice you can overcome it!
Cheers for the tips, I’ll have another spin later and have a play around with it
Anyone running a mini PC for Zwift? Just wondering what sort of graphics performance I'd need.
Houns, dump the erg mode - it's kack. What you were in there was a death spiral, saved by only needing 70 watts. Imagine what it would've done if you'd needed double/treble that.
Scotroutes, graphics is pretty much all zwift needs, I believe, although I think they advise/require a certain level of chip too. Should be some minimum spec up somewhere if you google (they used to have a sort of checker page where you could type in your kit)
Agreed re the erg mode, I only use this during training, it makes my training plan impossible as I just have to skip past the cool down/rest periods (or just keeping spinning along at 100+ watts for a rest) I have since done a calibration via the Tacx utility app, the calibration on Zwift just doesn’t work, the issue I was getting during regular route riding seems to have improved
How do you add a pace partner mid ride?
If you are riding a route used by Pace Partners, you will get a pre-warning up the top of your screen that a PP juggernaut is approaching, for instance the ~2.5W/Kg Coco Cadence on the Tempus Fugit course. Simply join the juggernaut and if you want the XP multiplier, don't stray too far ahead or behind the pace partner (which I find is easier said than done).
I have two followers / friends on Zwift. Get me, Mr Popular. I'm quite happy for them to follow me and, I guess, at some point we might do a social ride or race together. I was pretty surprised last night though to learn that they get a notification on their phones the second I hop on my turbo.
How on earth do I turn this off? I don't wear a tinfoil hat but there is no reason why I would want to share with them the second I start a workout.
I’ve got a random Latvian following me, she gives me a ride-on every ride
(That wasn’t meant to sound so wrong)
scotroutes - I'm using an i5 based Intel NUC, about three years old. Works fine and is bolted to the back of the monitor on the VESA mount.
Has anyone worked out how to consistently get an Apple watch to connect to use as a hr?
I'm using a Macbook connected to my trainer and iPhone with Zwift companion app.
First time it worked, second time it didnt.
Has anyone worked out how to consistently get an Apple watch to connect to use as a hr?
I’m using a Macbook connected to my trainer and iPhone with Zwift companion app.
First time it worked, second time it didnt.
I've given up trying. I am using iPad for Zwift (as MacBook can never find my turbo) and Companion running on iPhone. I've tried the various guides and YouTube tutorials but watch usually says Unpaired. Very occasionally it will work for a minute or so before giving up. I don't have the patience for it.
From what I can see the connection is meant to be be watch to phone, phone to companion, companion to Zwift (via shared Wi-Fi network). The order or connecting devices is important but, as I say, I can't make it work reliably. If you work it out I'll be interested to know.
From what I can see the connection is meant to be be watch to phone, phone to companion, companion to Zwift (via shared Wi-Fi network). The order or connecting devices is important but, as I say, I can’t make it work reliably. If you work it out I’ll be interested to know.
That was my understanding too. I just got it to work again correctly whilst "watching". I'll try again on a ride and let you know.
Novice Zwift racing questions!
On race day, I click the link from my calendar (on either the macbook or the companion app?) and that takes me to the race right?
How early in advance can I join the link?
If, say I join 15 mins before, does it put me in some virtual holding room (I've seen some people on turbo trainers??) where I can warm up whilst connecting my Apple watch etc?
Thanks!
Hi @vanilla83 not quite.
Enter the game normally, as if you are going freeriding. Get paired etc, and get right into the game. You have to be in game to join a race. It's quicker, but not essential, to choose the world you'll be racing in (if it's available that day).
Shortly before the race, a join event button will pop up. Press that to get into the virtual holding room on virtual turbo trainer you've seen, the start pen.
If you don't press it, it autopresses itself with a few minutes to go.
The start is a manic sprint. Spin up with 10-15 seconds to go because everyone launches like that on zero. It'll settle. Hang on until then if you can.
Is anyone zwifting on an old small factor office PC (optiplex, HP prodesk etc, ebay is flooded with them) with a nvidia gpu?
I want to get one and put a 1050ti GPU in it but there's masses of info out there ranging from "definitely won't fit or work in any of them" to "will be fine in any of them". If you are doing it, can you share what machine you put what GPU in?
I'm not on facebook, where reliable information on this issue apparently resides.
@savoyad thats really helpful thanks!
Doing that then means I don't have to re-pair when I join the event then?
I’m not on facebook, where reliable information on this issue apparently resides.
Not sure about that statement - Facebook is a lot of things but worse than here for a source of reliable information - start a post about it perhaps to capture the attention of the non-zwifting IT nerds?
Zwift makes weird demands on hardware though @robbo1234biking, so outside zwift chat helpful answers are swamped by otherwise correct ones about better/cheaper/more sensible gpus for squeezing into these machines which don't, alas, work well with zwift. I see a future where my wife is mysteriously inclined to joining the zwift pc master race group on facebook.
I am happy to post up a specific question if you have one @savoyad? There is a guy who does a lot with the hardware side of things on the Facebook group who would likely know the answer.
I really just want to know which of the SFF units will work with a 1050ti - particularly want to know for
dell optiplex 7010
hp prodesk 400 G1
HP G4
It would be nice of you to ask @robbo1234biking. There are so many variants, and which I'm interested in depends what's about to finish on ebay from day to day, almost like making the choice is a new hobby rather than an actual attempt to buy something. I fear you'll get "it depends" (what year? what serial number on the PSU? Is it version 2.54a or b?) answers, at which point feel free to just tell me to do my own research!
@robbo1234biking @savoyad I'd be really interested in understanding this as well. I currently take my laptop into the garage for Zwift, so a relatively cheap setup that could sit there permanently would be really interesting
I am awaiting joining the group. Once they have let me in I will ask the question and post the (sensible) responses here.
Here's a left field question. My adult daughter is using my zwift account to do a few work outs but as mentioned in a previous post is pedalling my 13st instead of her 9st. Her partner wants to have a go tomorrow and is the same weight as me and I will set him up on a course my daughter has already ridden. There's already been a bit of banter on who is the fastest so is there a way of re-calculating my daughters time on Watopia KOM based on her 9st weight?
There is a tool called "Sauce" for strava which includes a "perf predictor" which allows you to calculate how you might improve your time by increasing power, decreasing weight, reducing drag etc. that might help you.
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/sauce-for-strava/eigiefcapdcdmncdghkeahgfmnobigha?hl=en
@shinton
Change your weight to 17st before her partner rides so they are both carrying 4st extra. You could add a little more as you'll want your daughter to win.
I like that idea kentishman! In fact I think it should be based on a percentage increase in body weight 🙂
Do I need a cadence sensor?
I've only had Zwift a few weeks and got an Elite Zumo. When riding, the cadence barely seems to change on the screen but afterwards, in the data, it does show changes.
Is the Zumo guessing?
Would a proper cadence sensor make it more accurate?
And does it get easier?? I'm relatively fit but did the Haute Route over the weekend and its absolutely killed me!