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Realistically speaking there's no way I would even consider doing it in that order. Purge, flush then when it's clean replace. Why stick a new pump in only to expose it to contaminants?
Ok, so the PS pump has failed . How are you going to pump PS fluid around th system with a broken pump?
I suppose there is probably a way using a pressurised canister , jacking up the front wheels, disconnecting the PS return line , then doing a power flush that way.
Reality is source a second hand PS pump, use that as donkey to purge the system, then buy a shiney new one once the system has been purged
And there isnt a filter in the bottom of the PS resevoir . Some owners fit a magentic filter inline instead , then change this at oil change time, supposed to increase life of all PS componants.
Yes, drive a V70.
Geetee , top left hand corner of the engine bay . Its black and oily.
Did you check GSF and ECP for parts prices?
Mine ( d5) came in at £750 for the rack and PS pump. Add in maybe £100 for PS fluid , some flexi hoses and some petrol to clean the resevoir out with.
Good mechanic should be able to do that job in 6 - 8 hrs.
hey ho.
At 9 years old you might still be able to buy the aa warranty thing that pays out up to 1k. Not going to help this time but might in the future
jambalaya - Member
Rusty what do you mean by big bills and would they apply to 5+ yr old XC-60's for example ?
I only know Volvo stuff from our V70 and looking at XC90's because the Mrs is after one as her next car.
So far our 150k mile V70 has had front wishbones, quite a few sets of discs all round (consumables), handbrake mechanism rebuilt, new handbrake cables, PAS issue, boot lock mechanism failed (rebuilt it), rear windscreen wiper motor seized (rebuilt it), front top strut bearings/ spring mounts/shock absorbers, EML on as the catalytic converter has internally failed so needs replacing/Lambda sensor, £200 of gearbox oil flushed through it x2, keyfob flippy thing broke (hassle swopping bodies over due to transponder). Needs the breather vent pipes doing when I change the water pump/timing belt at 160k. The engine is good but I deliberately bought the old school simple 2.4NA petrol.
Not overly bothered at the work needed for its mileage and life its had but Volvos have had some large glaring issues over the years including fragile 'sealed for life' auto boxes, overly complex CAMBUS/security systems (13 BCM/ECU's on a V70!!!), wiring looms being damaged by water ingress/blocked with leafs, coupled with the potential extra headaches of a 4x4 drive system on the XC models means big money for anything a garage has to deal with. They are premium technical cars and need the wallets to support them.
Good support network/forums coupled with cloned VIDA/DICE diagnostic tools means they arnt [i]too bad[/i] for upper DIY skill levels.
be more robert and less john.
Just read first few chapters, was thinking the same thing.
OP - without wanting to get on your case, it's probably worth noting that you are expected to be able to identify what's under your car bonnet as part of the driving test. Not least because things like breake and PAS fluids are pretty safety-centric to the whole driving experience. I understand you don't want to get into a long involved process of learning car maintenance but you should at least know where the important stuff is.
forgot to add to the list - 2 rear brake calipers (seized pistons), needs a front caliper (also due to sticking piston), pair of ABS reluctor rings which also lead to faffing around trying to quieten the CV joint half shafts from groaning (fit XC90 bolts to a V70 cures it). Exhaust hanger bracket snapped.
Edited to add- the alarm back up battery needs replacing (cant be bothered - have pulled #11 fuse for it)
This is on a car that has 5k oil and filter changes (only because I service our 3 vehicles myself so 5k changes makes it easy to remember) , genuine Volvo parts used everytime, is washed thoroughly underneath in winter every week, and had full Volvo service history until we bought it at 79k miles.
Still a great car though.
Rusty many thanks ... I think that's Volvo excluded it seems a long list, I am a bit surprised you are buying another. Never really spent anything on my Mitsubishi Shogun*2, Toyota*2 (inc Rav4), Audi Quattro and the only money I had to spend on my Porsche over 9 years is due to it not being driven for 6 months (battery and tip gearbox component). I tend to keep cars 10 years plus.
@squirell perhaps the OP should buy a Cayman, all that's visible is the washer fluid, radiator and oil filler caps. Then everyone would get off his case !
I'd buy another V70 because they are good value for older models, they are also galvanised so dont rust and built like absolute tanks underneath. The seats/ergonomics/interiors are also brilliant and bulletproof.
Im not so sure on buying her an XC90 my preffered option is the Honda CRV but hopefully thats quite a few years off yet. I can see ours needing a replacement box at some point but I'd spend the £2k on it and change it.
Let's be honest rnp. You gave done a bunch of that because like me your fussy and proactive.
Most folk wouldn't do half if that and it's still work grand.
Ergo most users would get the magic im not spending money on it till it needs loads at 10 years old ah wait its falling apart let's buy a new one.
Let's be honest rnp. You gave done a bunch of that because like me your fussy and proactive.Most folk wouldn't do half if that and it's still work grand.
Ergo most users would get the magic im not spending money on it till it needs loads at 10 years old ah wait its falling apart let's buy a new one.
Did you post that before you had coffee TrailRat? 😀
my phone has a really shit autocorrect apparently.
But the point was that in RNP and my world we change things proactivly but both our cars would likely fulfill most folks expectations of not needing and seemingly major anywork till 10+ years old because it starts stops and passes mot.
folks expectations of not needing and seemingly major anywork till 10+ years old because it starts stops and passes mot.
There is more than a degree of truth in that
OP I would seriously consider leaving the brakes and discs until they really are needed (sensors ?). Was advised to change on my car and it's done another 15k miles. If you change discs pads have to be done, it may well be pads are not that worn and discs are ok dor a bit.
There is more than a degree of truth in that
In someways me and RNPs condition is a curse.... in others its positive 😀