Glad you like the Wharfdale Scruff, the really hard to beat for the cash.
Since my last post on here I've added a Q Acoustic 3060S to the Denon mini system that's wired into my WFH station so we are now a 2-Subwoofer house hold.
Much Dub was appreciated on it's arrival I can tell you.
give it a work out!
@molgrips the BK subs all have dual input (independently controlled), I think
certainly their "budget" one does
You'll need a specific lead though (you can buy from them or elsewhere)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115297559935?hash=item1ad845257f:g:rd8AAOSwbgdhoP~h (this is their ebay outlet for tiny cosmetic faults)
Ta. My Echo Link has a digital crossover and a sub output, so I just realised I can plug in my AV one just to see what it's like. I think it has a stereo input, so theoretically I can plug the hifi into L and the AV into R, no?
I suspect a cheap av amp will only have a single mono in.
The bk amps do have 2 inputs, but one is high level (ie taps your speaker feed, not line level), which may not be what you're after. Otherwise a y splitter cable will probably do the job
Check the size of the thing before you buy it!
I got a Q Associates 3070 - to match the 3010 speakers - and its as big as a suitcase
high level (ie taps your speaker feed, not line level), which may not be what you’re after
I thought that was exactly what is wanted for hifi ?? (same signal, blahblah)
(IANA...)
The BK subs have separately adjustable high and low level inputs. So you can connect your surround amp to the low level (and have the ability amp set the crossover point) and the speaker level output from your high amp and adjust the volume and crossover for that at the sub.
One of my BK xls200s had an amp failure recently (bought second hand and is now 11 years old). I removed the amp panel and BK re-capped it and shipped it back to me for £45. Great service.
My echo link has line level sub output same as my av receiver
Yeah so you've got 3 line level outputs going to one sub. Imo the easiest solution is a y cable but you may end up with them unbalanced. What's the surround sound system? It may be the sub is expecting an amplified feed even over an RCA connection.
I run my echo link amp to a sub via the line level, but as pointed out above you can run the speaker cables there (as well as to the speakers) on most bk subs and it'll de-amp it (??) And accept the input
I've been looking into getting a sub recently. Bought a 2nd hand nadc355bee on eBay that is great although feel the speakers are lacking bass. The polk psw10 seems to get good reviews
It may be the sub is expecting an amplified feed even over an RCA connection.
Just had a look, current sub (Tannoy SFX) has both speaker inputs via spring terminals and RCA connectors explicitly marked line level. The current AV is connected via the line level one, left channel marked LFE.
Imo the easiest solution is a y cable but you may end up with them unbalanced
Presumably you mean a cable to plug both outputs into the same input. What do you mean about it being unbalanced?
Something like this?
+1 REL
I have a Quake and a Strata 3.
The latest small Kefs also get some good reviews.
[both are setup in a hifi system, not AV, and both use the high-level (Neutrik) connection to the amp's speaker outputs. For hifi use this is regarded as a better way to do it compared to line level.]
For hifi use this is regarded as a better way to do it compared to line level.
Why?
For hifi use this is regarded as a better way to do it compared to line level.
Less “better” more “only”. An AV amp will vary the level of the LIne level signal to the sub with the volume. A normal stereo hifi amp won’t do that - it will just send a fixed level signal regardless of the amp volume. Using the speaker level input on the sub means the sub volume will change with the amp volume.
(There may be some exceptions If a hifi amp has a specific sub output.)
it sounds better
Has anyone got an Audio Pro Addon T? Particularly paired with T20 speakers?
Less “better” more “only”. An AV amp will vary the level of the LIne level signal to the sub with the volume. A normal stereo hifi amp won’t do that – it will just send a fixed level signal regardless of the amp volume.
Well my system has neither, so I'll go and try it now. Everyone's out.
Happy SW150 owner here also. Paired with some Diamond 9.1s.
Just coming off the amp speaker outputs, two channels into one.
Works well, sounds great.
it sounds better
it shouldn't sound better. you're passing an unamplified signal in the amp, though the amplification circuitry, then to the subwoofer, then de-amplifying it just to get the original un-amplified signal (which then passes through a crossover and is reamplified again, so it can be played). Those extra signal processing steps should reduce quality, not improve it.
The specs I can find on the internet for my speakers suggests the frequency response is down to 80Hz, but clearly this applies to some sort of level and it the response doesn't just drop off immediately. The problem I had with my Tannoy AV sub is that it's a bit rubbish and far worse quality than the speakers, which aren't exactly high end anyway. With the crossover set to 50Hz and the sub turned up a bit it sounded well.. more bassy, but I'm not sure it was actually any better.
You would expect a better sub like one of the ones mentioned here would be a better option in terms of actual sound reproduction which would allow me to use higher frequencies without making it sound worse.
They did make a sub to go with my speakers (Celestion F20/S20) if I can find one used.
From what I can find online the manufacturers freq response of your speakers shows it has a 3db reduction at 60hz but given their specs and the low £120 cost that the freq response will start to roll off much higher as they only have a 130mm main drive unit, I imagine they will will start to drop off at 100hz and from an engineering perspective i can't see how any budget 130mm driver can produce 60hz, being rear ported they will be dependant on room position for any bass response. I'd set the sub freq crossover at 120hz and reduce it by 10hz till I found a happy medium.
My current AV sub then is too shit to match my speakers because it sounded absolutely rubbish with a higher crossover frequency.
I have a paradigm pdr-10... A ten inch active woofer.. It's seriously powerful but I don't think they make that particular model any more.
I'd go with a ten incher unless your room is vast.
An 8 incher, unless incredibly well optimised isn't really going to do the job
The video below may be of help in choosing a suitable sub,
@molgrips, i would be surprised if a cheap sub is doing much below 40hz, so if it doesnt work with a higher crossover it's truly junk..
@mattyfez - the advantage of a bigger cone is imo more the depth than the volume. I really noticed the upgrade from a Gemini ii to a p12, even though I was rarely maxing out the Gemini.
the advantage of a bigger cone is imo more the depth than the volume
And, I think, doing it with a lack of distortion. As well as BK XLS200 I picked up a MJ Acoustics Pro 50 MkIII from Ebay. At retail price in Black Ash the BK is £360 and the MJAcoustics now £595. Both have 10" drivers
Despite having a slightly smaller box the MJA definitely goes lower, but I've tried it on three different systems/rooms and I prefer the BK on all of them. It might not go quite as low but I can never get the Mj to "disappear" - it just doesn't mesh with the other speakers as well. I suspect that while it goes low it's a bit 'dirty' at the lower frequencies - I wonder if BK filter out the low stuff their sub can deliver but not do so well?
Hell yes. Having a Friday beer and realised the world is decent and full of people who still concentrate on the important things. Well done STW, this is a great thread.
I have been looking for an excuse to update a pair of 20+yr old Mission book standing speakers for about the last 10 years, but they sound good to me and there is nought wrong with them. But a subwoofer…
There's no replacement for displacement. (to coin a petrol head term).
A bigger woffer can always potentially sound better (when properly integrated), but an 18" sub will always lack the punch of a ten or twelve, all things being equal.
