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There was a thread on here ages ago that I can't locate about nice axes...
I want a mid sized, one handed, splittery type thing to compliment my maul/logrenade set-up.
Any suggestions?
There it is... thank you Stoner for being more proficient on the internetz than me!
I have a list of all the axe/logburner/woodstore threads indexed and cross referenced on a Rolodex on my desk.
Stoner - 😆
So the only option is Gransfors... I was hoping not to break the bank...
Any other suggestions for a mid size chopper?
fiskars is a good halfway house
x11 or x17 for one handed use?
You could hand forge your own, with some help from...[url= http://www.knivesbynick.co.uk ]Knives by Nick[/url]
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I'm going on a Damascus knife making course there later in the year. Can't wait.
Happy Roselli axe owner here...
Happy Gransfors owner here
I was lucky enough to get a Gransfors for Xmas, the mrs said she got some funny looks when it was delivered to her office, I would have loved to have seen their faces as she unwrapped it at her desk.
Ok... So if I went Gransfors... for duties described...
Splitting hatchet or....
Small Forest Axe
???
Small Forest Axe, I would say, light enough to use one-handed, but with enough weight to split and cut decent sized logs.
Be careful, they are VERY sharp, proper hair-shaving sharp.
It'll have the initials of the bloke who forged the blade stamped into it, too.
Small Forest axe here too. for those ^ reasons.
I like mine.
I thought the Husqvarna axes got a good rep and were a bit cheaper than the Gransfors ones if price is a concern.
Happy B&Q-cheapy-that-I-found-in-the-shed-when-I-moved-in owner here
You didn't build your own shed...????
I think that disqualifies you from commenting on this thread...
Another yup for the Small Forest Axe. I have the Wildlife Hatchet too and it's a bit small really. Good for little jobs and yes, hair shavingly sharp. Get a stone and a strop and learn how to keep it so.
Aye small forest axe luvver here too.
One handed action, but you can give it a bit of wellie with two hands. But it wont replace a maul for the big stuff.
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Have a look at Hultafors bruks, not quite as well finished or pretty as Gransfors but less than half the price.
Mrs o wonderfully got me a hultafors splitting axe for my birthday - kindling splitting a-plenty and it is a lovely thing. Axe happiness here.
x11 or x17 for one handed use?
X11 For one-handed use. I've got the X17 and it is ideal for two-handed use; arguably just a bit too long and heavy for one-handed. Only paid about £30 for mine on eBay and its been fine for the soft pine we have but I'd certainly look at something a bit more 'STW' for heavier duty.
Any thoughts on fiskars x10? Cheap on eBay.....
Might get an x3 too for general hacking jobs and kindling
Got a nice Husqevana splitting axe for Christmas.
Now looking for a decent chopping axe.
I got a hultafors agdor medium trekking axe recently. Really nice axe and half the price of the gransfors one.
Just couldn't justify the cost increase, the hultafors is stupidly sharp and is a damn fine axe, just not as well finished as a mates gransfors
Oh no... more options!!
Bought a small axe at B&Q, load of crap. Absolutely useless on the big logs.
*still* waiting for the big maul I ordered from ebay. Have lots and lots of big logs to split. I'm actually worried we're going to run out of woodstore wood before the end of winter at the rate my wife and son are burning it. If I could just get the wood pile split and stored I'd be happy.
Still, the little axe has some uses.
[url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7398/11826142293_555834315b_c.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/53067724@N00/11826142293/ ]2013-12-29 11.49.01[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/53067724@N00/ ]Jon Wyatt[/url], on Flickr
Just don't fall off....
Have a B&Q hatchet for small logs and kindling. A butter knife would be more effective....
ourmaninthenorth - MemberHave a B&Q hatchet for small logs and kindling. A butter knife would be more effective....
Have you sharpened it at all?
[url= http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/recreational_trails/publications/fs_publications/pdf/pdf99232823.pdf ]An Axe to Grind[/url]
[quoteHave you sharpened it at all?
No. bought a coarse file and stone at the weekend, with the intention of sharpening it this w/e when the ladies of the house are out at dancing classes/birthday parties.
Thanks for the video!
Well something interesting arrived last night...
[url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7455/11851394726_ff2b78b3c4_b.jp g" target="_blank">
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/53067724@N00/11851394726/ ]parcel[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/53067724@N00/ ]Jon Wyatt[/url], on Flickr
6lb head
Axing is hard though, I tried a couple of logs last night. It's difficult to get it on target with the right amount of power. I had more success tapping the log with the axe until it stuck and then slamming it down hard but some of the wood was resistant to gentle pressure.
Tips? Sharpening you say? What do I need?
not sure you want to be sharpening a maul - its the blunt actionthat causes the split - mauls are ACE
sharpening the hatchet will make a difference though.
you just need to practice your swing.
In my view you dont need to sharpen an axe unless you are cutting across the grain. Splitting along the grain a sharp axe tends to stick more and the consequences of a miss are potentially more serious.
Ormancheep, does your axe not have a poll? Looks nice but unstable?
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This gif needs a bit of work by Jamie
I'm using a big stump of wood like that gif as a base but that's been outside in the rain for a year or so. It's a bit soft and so if I miss and hit that the axe sticks right in it, can't see it lasting long unless my aim improves.
remember dont so much throw your back into the axe as let the weight of the axe do the work .
start throwing it at the wood and youll put your back out.
sharpening the hatchet will make a difference though.
To what - losing your fingers when you're making kindling ?
I made a short vid exactly for these kind of debates but haven't put it online yet. I have a busy day so I'll try and arrange it later - keep 'em peeled.
My little no-name rubber handled, full tang hatchet cost £7 ten years ago and gets used almost every day. From a practical point of view an expensive axe is no better than a cheap one IME.
a resonably sharp hatchet needs next to no force to make kindling - you dont need to swing it from afar meaning you dont risk missing your target - if they cannot miss their fingers from 2-3 inches i dont think they should be cutting fire wood with a real axe yet and should continue to practice with a plastic one - before i sharpened it it pretty much always needed 8-10 inches swing to split as its so light and was blunt like a hammer! - i dont mean sharp as my cutting axe but its sharper than my maul.
I use my splitting maul to cut kindling anyway as the weight of the head means it needs similarly little force. - it lives in the firewood shed - although i should really move my hatchet there also.... and i normally just split a log for kindling on the spot - takes a couple of minutes and lights better freshly split imo
a resonably sharp hatchet needs next to no force to make kindling
Wholeheartedly agree. In my vid you'll see how little effort I use. I also give a clear view of exactly how sharp (or blunt) it is before pivoting my wrist to split. Sometimes, when I require it, my kindling is [[i]french waiter[/i]] wafer thin ![[i]/french waiter[/i]]. It really doesn't need to be sharp - as Sweepy wrote, it just requires a cut down the grain to split most wood with ease.
Anyway - I'll put up the vid later.
maybe its depends on what your burning as well ....
im using quite alot of knotty waste wood from rustymacs kitchen for kindling
To what - losing your fingers when you're making kindling ?
Only if you're a completely ham-fisted clot. Only hold the stick when you tap the top with the axe edge, enough for the stick to be stuck on the edge when you lift it up, then tap it hard on the block so the axe weight splits the stick. Easy-peasy. If the axe is blunt, it won't get the initial cut going properly, and even a maul needs a decent edge to start the split going, otherwise it'll bounce off or crush the wood, instead of splitting it. It doesn't need to be razor sharp, though, just not blunt, regularly touching up the edge with a fine file will do, or a carborunum stone.
I have a Gransfors Small Forest Axe and got their small splitting axe for Christmas... Incredible difference.
SFA is ace at what it is designed for, such as limbing felled trees etc, but the SSA is brilliant at splitting... I have now got through my entire woodpile since Christmas going through stuff that the SFA got stuck in really easily...