is that not where they have stacked the tiles up during building?
Sorry, in Cambridgeshire. That felt damage is definitely not rot though. Basically when you load (bump) a roof you would usually walk the tiles on your shoulder up the felt and battens placing them at locations over the roof span so that when you come to lay it in there are enough in the locations you need them to be. This damage was caused by the person/a loading the roof using the gap between the dormers to gain access to the upper slopes. You walk on the sections where the battens are nailed to the joists, but as the felt is usually quite tight between joists, any heavy footed or clumsy foot placement can result in felt damage. The rubbing that you can see on the felt illustrates that this was used as a main thoroughfare, which in turn weakens the felt resulting in failure over the (relatively) sharp edge of the rafter. It sounds like the builder/roofer made a felt repair in another location with duct tape. It would be possible to do the same here, but my suggested remedy would be to find all of the areas where the felt is damaged, hopefully with access to the loft. Strip out those sections and put sections of new felt over the damage, lapping onto the section below and under the section above. This should be under the battens which will need taking off in sections (or cut at an appropriate place) and putting back after the repair. This should solve any secondary water ingress and be a lot cheaper that a whole roof repair! I would budget for 2 x roofers for 1-2 days subject to the extent of the damage, so £400-800 plus materials. If the builder/roofer doesn’t want to carry out this work, then I would find a local alternative contractor and agree for the work to be done and recharged to the builder as it amounts to leaving a job unfinished/not fit for purpose.
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DT78
Free MemberOk random out there thought, I’ve worked out why my garage is leaking. It’s the lead flashing which is regularly getting attacked by effing magpies, and they damaged it enough for the rain to start getting in.
Any pictures, lead worker by trade
@palmer77 Thank you for your detailed response - that's pretty much the conclusion I've come to. A recommended roofer is coming out tomorrow to assess the damage. When I showed him the pictures he pretty much said exactly the same as you. He said the underlay isn't the best, but a whole roof strip and replace was excessive.
As of yet I've had no response from the developer. So I'm guessing I may have to get my solicitor to send him a letter - then wait for him. Could take a while to get sorted. Not great timing with winter on the door step.
The other thing to check on that style of roof would be the dormer apex’s, and valley feet. If full lead valleys, then these should be cut and welded around the change of angle. If fibreglass sections, they’ll likely have a lead saddle. The issue with the latter is that often these are thrown in by unskilled trades and have very little effectiveness. If the area is especially windy you could get water driven up between the dormers and into any potential weak sections such as these. Worth checking against the side of the dormers too, standard flashing detail for these tiles would be 300mm cover flashing, bent 150 x 150 and affixed to the dormer and dressed into the surface of the tile. In my view this detail is never as good as individual soakers, but it is standard practice. If any of the dims are compromised though it could lead to water ingress. Always worth remembering that most leaks will start above where the water finally makes its way into the building.
