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Which corner is the obligatory woodburner going in?
Rich_s - Member
Which corner is the obligatory woodburner going in?
He'll need 3 to take care of the damp issue 🙂
As its so uncompleted seriously have a think about double skin to keep the damp out as suggested by others
My garage is single skin stone not blocks and this time of year. rust forms so quick on
metal like overnight
My old oily lathe will red up overnight if I don't cover it with an old sleeping bag .
i have to agree with the "in denial" comment, several in trade brickies tell you its a bad job yet its allowed to carry on. i guess this all boils down to the OP's fear of upsetting the lads family that live nearby hence fhe living with the consequences stance. i would seriously just start from scratch its the right thing to do in my opinion and definitely stop the day rate farce. hope it all works out though.
oh and please please please set up a bodge cam 😉
Just been out to the garage to check my pier bonding and all is good, I can sleep tonight.
i have to agree with the "in denial" comment, several in trade brickies tell you its a bad job yet its allowed to carry on.
Given the choice between:
a) what the Engineer whose design it is and the local Builder Control inspector thinks
and
B) what random people post on the internet, most of whom are just keyboard warriors who cannot avoid joining in, but don't really have anything constructive to add.
I'm going to go with a), although I realise that will disappoint those in the b) camp.
So did you renegotiate price?
So did you renegotiate price?
B) what random people post on the internet, most of whom are just keyboard warriors who cannot avoid joining in, but don't really have anything constructive to add.
To be fair, most of the actual advice has come from experienced Brickies and a couple of people who Teach Bricklaying (hardly keyboard warriors?)!And they all seem to agree, and have demonstrated why.
The engineer who designed it isn't going to say its not an ideal design is he ?
can a i quote for central heating for it? and we ve just taken on a super bathroom fitter should you like a post ride shower.. I ve seen a telly in a shower this month as well and touch sensitive loo seats that illuminate a vanity lamp when you squat..
i dont think you can over spec a shed..
I'd have to say that if it were me I would go and get a second opinion. Another engineer at least to give you piece of mind. However, my guess is you won't because despite all the great advice you've been given (I'm ignoring the crap stuff) you haven't modified the design and build to any extent.
If I were spending the money you are I would want it insulated, damp-proofed and electrified as a minimum. What happens if you upset the missus at some point in the future and she turns round and says sleep in the shed! Then you'll be wishing it was dry and warm 🙂
I'd have to say that if it were me I would go and get a second opinion. Another engineer at least to give you piece of mind. However, my guess is you won't because despite all the great advice you've been given (I'm ignoring the crap stuff) you haven't modified the design and build to any extent.
If I were spending the money you are I would want it insulated, damp-proofed and electrified as a minimum. What happens if you upset the missus at some point in the future and she turns round and says sleep in the shed! Then you'll be wishing it was dry and warm 🙂
I struggle with long sentences
Is it finished yet?
If nothing else it's just not good aesthetically. If quarter bond was presented to me on any of my sites I'm afraid it'd get the size 10. I can't believe any good quality engineer would accept it, it's just not good practice! I admire your spirit tho footflaps and you will get your shed, I hope the rest runs smooth for you.
Best of luck.
I'd have to say that if it were me I would go and get a second opinion
I'd have to say that if it were me I would go and get a second opinion
😆
franksinatra - Member
When my parents had their extension built, my dad had a small secret box room buit in to the cavity created by the recessed fire place. It was accessed by removing logs from the recessed log store and climbing up and in . Was shelved full height, about 1.5m deep and about 5m long.
But it was there......
is this your dad??
can't believe i've just spent saturday night reading 9 pages about some bloke's garage - brilliant thread 😆
Don't forget my warning about Cambs building control being a tad shonky when it comes to structural engineering.
If you happened to have a nice orbea or cannondale I'd happily drive down and finish/put right your shed, I've got loads of holiday days to take this year, have a word with your building inspector, amend drawing to cavity wall and do away with those unsightly piers, it would be a far superior build
[i]whadda i do[/i]
not build a set of gates with nothing to stop people bypassing them?
also, is there a ramp at the front or does your car levitate?
not build a set of gates with nothing to stop people bypassing them?also, is there a ramp at the front or does your car levitate?
the gates are coming out, the cars a [i]modified[/i] DeLorean DMC-12 so no worries there
How many bodies did you need to get rid of for christ sakes.
How many bodies did you need to get rid of for christ sakes.
Business is gooooood.
PS: shhhh or your next...
Just going back to that roof design...
With a truss roof, the trusses bear the load of the roof structure & covering onto a timber wall plate which sits on top of the flank walls. The trusses are at regular spaces (usually 450 or 600mm) so spread the load of the roof along the wall. The trusses are tied from side-to-side with a joist or tie beam to stop the load pushing the walls out.
What your sketch shows is the load transferred mostly to the 2 central columns via the post and tie arrangement (it doesn't show any rafters but I guess these will appear to support the roof coverings). This will place a lot of load on those 2 piers.
There are no ties at either end of the garage to stop the roof spreading, unless the end of the ridge beam will bear on the masonry (although I wouldn't think there's enough bearing width). This would also mean that the ridge beam at the front of the garage is bearing over the door, putting all its load on the door lintel too.
Probably not explained very well above, but something is definitely missing from that sketch!
I entirely understand what you mean re the roof and that's the reason I'd questioned the engineers credentials.
Rafters!
As above I would look at the roof. The motto is KISS (keep it simple stupid). 8m span for a ridge beam ?!?!?!
I would get some trusses made up, galv strap the gable wall to the truss, strap the plate down to the wall and truss clip the truss to the wall plate.
Not too worried about the DPC. Although a better detail would have been a semi / engineering brick plinth in a strong motar. Did you put any MJs in the blockwork or bed joint reinforcement?
Brief scanned the '9' pages and very glad I don't do residental stuff.
Looks like someones filled your swimming pool with concrete 🙂
re the damp and insulation, I have a single skin garage, and in the winter it is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO cold and damp, that i was regularly putting teh bike away in there with snow and ice on it last year, and it was still there on the bike two days later! Nothing ever dries in there either and stuff does go rusty theres no doubt about it. Would love to have it warm and dry properly!
My house has a single skin garage with no DPC it's awful for damp and mould already this year. It's was pre existing when we brought the house this year but plans are to do a proper build next year. It's a shame that the build wasn't done well in the first place but there you go.
My dads a retired builder, started as a carpenter retired with a property development company. I showed to him this thread and he echoed the advice you have been given by those in the trade on here. Getting a simple build like this right shouldn't be this difficult.
Where's the pics flaps? Surely ya mans cracking on a bit now??
Cavity is definitely the way to, again my garage was single skin, had to do a major retrofit of a DPC to the inside of the walls with batons, followed by insulation and chipboard. Took a while but worked well, it's at least dry in there now and tools don't rust.
Come on Flaps, we need an update.....anything....... no work is getting done here while we're waiting! If we don't get an update soon I might have to resort to reading threads about 29ers or CX bikes.....!
Waiting.... 🙄
He's still finishing the foundations.... and looking for another bricklayer 🙂
While we're waiting … my *actual house* is single-skin … is this bad? I've always been slightly worried by it, this thread has made it worse.
single skin as in '300 years old and 3ft thick' or 'one layer of bricks with a bit of spit on the outside to weatherproof it'?
brickie probably put him in the pillars for daring to critique his speed
Yep, he's bricking him up in the wall. Already up to the shins since Monday.brickie probably put him in the pillars for daring to critique his speed
'one layer of bricks with a bit of spit on the outside to weatherproof it'?
Yeah that. That's not good is it?
it's not the ideal, but tbh, if you've not had any problems and it's stood for a while then I'd not fret too much.
…actually the original building (old cow shed) probably is/was about 300 years old. But I don't know how much of it is original. If any.
Thrown up by a bunch of cowboys with a stingy corner-cutter of a developer as far as I can gather.
it's not the ideal, but tbh, if you've not had any problems and it's stood for a while then I'd not fret too much.
Ah OK, cool. Been here 6 years or so. No damp or obvious signs of doom. I'll forget about it then 🙂
Keyboard warrior update.
Guess what i was teaching today? 🙂
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If a couple of 17 yr olds can manage to work it out, your experienced fella should have too. : )
So, just out of interest... those of you with moist & damp garages... how many air bricks or the like do you have fitted? I'm going single skin and adding 12 air bricks... I thunk.
Rusty, are they still using sand and lime mortar at college?
Remember not so fondly of having to clean all the bricks down after building and putting it in a pile ready for it to br remixed!

