[Closed] Rate my Brickie....

some amount of money spent on that structure. better built than some houses, must be some bikes in there, did my garage into a gym,workshop sauna years ago, lucky im a carpenter and cost me peanuts, enjoy though the escapism rocks

In sheltered areas 9" walls are accepted as being weather resistant,
however as far as I can remember Celotex shouldn't be applied to 4" walls

Went passed on the train today and was pleased to see the roof on - but have you painted the render pink or were my eyes decieved ?

however as far as I can remember Celotex shouldn't be applied to 4" walls

Never heard that before.

What's the reason ?

better built than some houses, must be some bikes in there

not bikes 🙂

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I've been enjoying following this thread thanks footflaps. I have got planning permission now to pull our old outbuilding down and rebuild it. I am impressed by your roof structure and would like to do something similar, I'm guessing you had a structural engineer to work out size of rsj and do you have any cross beams to make it like an A frame or don't you need any?

Thanks and keep pics coming

Went passed on the train today and was pleased to see the roof on - but have you painted the render pink or were my eyes decieved ?

Errr yes. But we can't see the painted sides. We had a sunny weekend, so nipped round to Ridgeons and the trade masonry paint had either Black, White, Grey or something called Suffolk - so we went for that. Turns out it's Suffolk Pink - we were quite surprised. NB Trade paint tins are all just white with a name on....

In sheltered areas 9" walls are accepted as being weather resistant,

Pretty much all Victorian houses are 9" walls, and they are everywhere in the UK - make very nice dry houses.....

however as far as I can remember Celotex shouldn't be applied to 4" walls

Utter nonsense. Cellotex is an polyisocyanurate closed cell foam bonded between two sheets of aluminium. Last time I checked, aluminnum wasn't water soluble and neither is the foam. As for damp pouring through 4" of concrete, we're having a rather wet autumn right now, and I've got a very dry workshop shell.....

It's even more nonsense eg when you build a standard cavity wall house, guess what you have in the gap right next to the 4" wall - a layer of celotex or equivalent....

A PINK mancave? 😆 😆 😆

A PINK mancave?

Er yes... I've had quite a lot of stick from the neighbours about it...

As for progress, I've just finished a 14 hour shift fitting the bloody stuff - horrible to work with - fine dust everywhere. I now have the lung function of a squirrel.

The first phase is 100mm in between the pillars, to make the walls flush. 70mm in between rafters. Then phase 2 is 50mm bonded to 12.5mm plaster board (damp proof board) will go flush over everything. So final depths will be 150mm on 4" walls. 50mm on pillars. 120mm on the roof and 100mm on the floor.

[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8072/8255304147_bd6d53344d.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8072/8255304147_bd6d53344d.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8255304147/ ]8 Dec 2012 17:00[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr

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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8255305093/ ]8 Dec 2012 17:00[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr

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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8256378874/ ]8 Dec 2012 14:26[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr

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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8255303493/ ]8 Dec 2012 19:55[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr

Jeezo- are you allergic to kryptonite but looking to store your collection somewhere??

Jeezo- are you allergic to kryptonite but looking to store your collection somewhere??

I intend to heat the workshop using a candle, so need to get my U value right down......

EDIT plus you seal the whole thing up with aluminium tape to stop any drafts between / around the panels - basically the Celotex forms a vapour barrier. By the time it's done, they'll be something insane like 400m of tape on there as there are so many panels in the roof...

Brilliant stuff.

Will you be doing tours once complete 😀

Ultimate man cave.

The world's first Passiv Schuppen.

I've been doing it wrong all these years 🙄
How you fixing top layer of board flaps? You dabbed the first layer on the walls?

Top layer will screw through to the rafters. For the walls I'll bond it to the brick pillars, the piers are 1.7m apart and the boards are 2.4m long. They'll bow a bit in the middle, if it looks terrible, I'll just cut out a middle stud, be pretty quick to fit.

[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8258394476_842199275c.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8485/8258394476_842199275c.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8258394476/ ]First insulation later complete[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr

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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8257325375/ ]First insulation later complete[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr

Nealglover,
manufacturers details apparently,had it pointed out to me by building control surveyor

Footflaps - Fisher make wall fixing plugs ( Termofix) for insulation boards that are ace. See if you can get a box - they do them in screw in wood, screw into masonry with rawl-plug attached and hammer fix epoxy. Means you should not have any bowing anywhere.
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By the time it's done, they'll be something insane like 400m of tape on there

I think the phrase 'something insane like' can be used as a prefix to all your quantities 🙂

After the nuclear winter has passed, the only building standing will be Fortress Footlaps.

NORAD will be flattened, but Fortress Footflaps will still be standing.

p.s [url= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cheyenne_Mountain_nuclear_bunker ]NORAD[/url] is built under a friggin' mountain.

Cheers Matt, looking for long fixings was next on my to-do list....

manufacturers details apparently,had it pointed out to me by building control surveyor

Nothing in the 96 page product guide building control gave me when I asked about it. I did all my U value calculations using Celotex's online calculators and it was quite happy with 100mm block.

The only possible relevant reference, in the 96 page guide, is: "Please note that where existing walls are subject to the ingress of excessive moisture, it is recommended that Celotex PL4000 should be installed using mechanical fixings rather than a direct bonding technique."

*glitchy bump*

Jeez that celotex must of cost more than my garage

Pink? I don't geddit? It's twistin my melon man

Footflaps, how much has it all cost?
"something insane like..".

Bike shed (over)built by a Footflaps ancestor a long time ago:
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Must be into at least week 13 of this build (mega-structure)

having not really looked since page 2... did he sack the first brickie? This thread needs a "Previously on Rate my Brickie" at the top of each page

Don't listen to them Footflaps, I love your bunker.

Seriously, great thread - over engineering porn.

having not really looked since page 2... did he sack the first brickie?

Yes. The replacement was most excellent.

It's twistin my melon man

You know you talk so hip man

I'm having a large episode of Man-Jealousy towards your workshop flaps!! It makes my new 18' cedar workshop look very insignificant!!

On the plus side, I ordered it after you started, and have been in for nearly 2 months 🙂

OK, Thanks to matt_outandabout , I've been looking at fixings and have found a whole range which mean I can fix 150mm Celotex + 12.5mm plasterboard direct to concrete with no stud framework:

200 of something similar to these turn up tomorrow (215mm long, 10mm pilot hole in concrete and hammer in).

[url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8349/8261648402_cb08b87301.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8349/8261648402_cb08b87301.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8261648402/ ]Untitled[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr

Footflaps, you are having a 'Grand opening' when its done? 🙂

These grand projects are never really finished, they just slow down exponentially as the 'designer' gets worn down by the whole thing...

Flaps, those fixings are great. I have used those for 150mm insulation loads of times and they are really fast and easy.

Very strong too. Get a slightly smaller pilot bit just in case though, depending on the substrate a smaller hole than specced sometimes works better.

And don't forget to tape over the heads 😉

And don't forget to tape over the heads

They are fab things and much under-known about. None of this daft dot n dab or studding out.

Can you put some pics up of those fixing things in action can't get my head around the collar bit unless it comes off?

Go steady with the drill, set a depth guide up or youll be through the other side!

I'll try them out in the spare blocks I have first to suss them out. Will post lots of photos. I'll tape over the heads and then skim over the lot (but probably not this side of xmas for the skiming).

collar bit unless it comes off?

If you mean the plastic circle thing - that stays in the foam, slightly indented, to spread the load. Anything narrower will just pull through as the foam is so soft.

NB Had the PB lined Celotex boards arrive today and I can't carry them on my own as their weight to strength ratio was too high so my hand pulled through the board when I upped them on one edge to get through gates, leaving a massive hand sized dent in the side of them. Have to be carried by two people to spread the load enough to not deform them. Mrs FF was very helpful and shifted 28 of them with me into the WS. The first two I did on my own and are hand print deformed.

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[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/brf/8261465630/ ]Plaster Board backed Celotex (PB4050) arriving - two palletes worth![/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/brf/ ]brf[/url], on Flickr

Go steady with the drill, set a depth guide up or youll be through the other side!

I think my DeWalt SDS is dying, as it really struggles with the concrete blocks, so over drilling is not a concern at the moment. It really didn't like fitting the fixings for the door - 150mm x M10 was really slowing it down.

Can you put some pics up of those fixing things in action can't get my head around the collar bit unless it comes off?