[Closed] Moving an Oak framed twin bay garage? Do-able?

Depending on how it's constructed, it could be possible to relocate it.

If the frame is bolted together it'd be relatively straightforward to dismantle and re-erect. If it's built using traditional oak framed methods using pegs then I presume you'd have to have those drilled out. One I saw being built on a client's site recently had the frame bolted to steel footings encased in concrete in the ground, so that might be a factor.

I wouldn't have thought it would be structurally stable enough to simply lift the entirety of it though.

The costs of custom steelwork lifting frame to hold it securely and hire of crane probably offsets the costs of dismantling and rebuilding - you'd probably want to strip the slates from the roof anyway as any movement and they'll shatter.

Thanks chaps. I think that dismantling would have significantly less site impact than getting a larger crane onto the property and maneuvering it.

Are pegged green oak frames dismantle-able? And rebuildable without losing too much structural integrity?

Fairly sure you could dismantle a pegged frame building and rebuild, it'll be plenty strong, but the rebuild will be awkward.  As it dried out from green it will have warped.  That means the pegs and stuff will not line up for rebuilding and it may need new holes... And more.  Doable though I'm sure.

Having helped a friend build his large oak framed garage (traditional jobby with pegs) I would give serious consideration as to whether it's really necessary - it would be a big job and I doubt it would be quite the same once you got it back together due to what neilnevill stated.

You will be looking at a cost not significantly different to building a new one in your preferred location IMO.

You will need a new base poorer etc as if new. Labour Cost of dismantling and moving then rebuilding would be similar or more than new build. Some parts will be damaged and need replacing / fiddling with (see shrinkage point above). You will save on the oak and most of the slates (undamaged ones).

A friend of ours had a oak pegged house built. The people who built it 'unbuilt' and reassembled oak framed buildings on a reasonably regular basis.

This isnt the same company, but...

http://www.antiquebuildings.co.uk/buildingsforsale/For%20sale/forsale1.htm

Many thanks for the responses, all. Is there anything that the STW hive mind doesn't know?

By the looks of it, it wouldn't be cost effective to relocate the garage by either method, so we'll think around the edges of the issue. Or perhaps it's not quite the right property, if we have to replace a perfectly good building? Always worth exploring all the options, though.

Just came to say, that garage, that driveway AND a Landy, mmmmmmm...😍

Have you checked the price of an oak carport on ebay?

Depends on your time/skills/tools, you can dismantle and rebuild, or lag a frame inside, jack and lift.

Be aware that the holes drilled for the pegs are off set on purpose in order for the mortice and tenon joint to tighten when the peg is hammered through. The process is called draw boring.

This is one of the few areas of expertise I can lay claim to... IF it's a full oak frame, then yes, you can dismantle and relocate and rebuild, I've done a few. But, if it's one of the bullshit oak framed garages that are only oak on the front elevation, then you'll have a lot of softwood stud work scrap and will need to renew. Those companies like their nail guns.

To dismantle, its a lot of work, but very doable, there will be carpenters marks by all the joints, reference those and rebuilding will be straightforward. If you can, you want to drift out the pegs, don't drill them unless you want to plug the tenon's and re drill the draw-bore peg holes. This is where the strength of an oak frame is, the offset peg hole between the mortice and tenon pulls and locks the joint together. Typically, they are also drilled when the frame is being layed up, so it is perfectly straight and level. You could induce twist in a frame if you redrill the peg hole incorrectly, so like I say, use a short length of 16mm diameter round bar to drift out the pegs, assuming that the typical 3/4" drawn pegs were used in your original build.

Talking of which, you'll need new pegs, if it's a full and proper oak frame, you'll need a few.

For reassembly, the trick is accuracy and keeping everything absolutely level in all planes, if you do, it will slot together easily, if you don't, not even the biggest hammer will persuade it. Heavy stuff 😃