Forum menu
My truck decided I should fettle the suspension a little. The broken link is now welded, plated and welded again so should all slip back together easily....
[url= https://i.postimg.cc/mkCSCKMJ/broken-suspension.jp g" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/mkCSCKMJ/broken-suspension.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
*EDIT The two diagrams should have a green tick of the left one and a red cross on the right one. I currently have the problem on the right and want the solution on the left *EDIT
... however. The bolt (Red arrow) slides smoothly through one side of the chassis bracket (green), continues through the orange bushing in the end of the previously broken link bar (blue) and out through the other side of the chassis bracket (green) where is it secured with a nut.
Unfortunately I cannot get the hole in the bushing to line up with the hole in the bracket. The bushing hole is about 2mm further back than the chassis bracket. It is close, a 6mm bolt (a screwdriver actually) goes through everything correctly but I would prefer to reuse the original 10mm bolt so they have to line up exactly.
Raising and lowering the truck by the chassis or by the suspension arm moves the hole up and down but not forward and backwards which is what I need.
Any ideas?
Have you tried using a punch to line it up?
Daughter says she uses a brodle
Ratchet strap from the axle to something solid?
That was what I tried with the screwdriver. I guess I could get an old 10mm bolt and grind it to a bit of a point so its nose will fit through and then hammer in home to get them aligned.
Actually, if I cut the head off the pointy bolt before hammering it in place to get stuff aligned, I could then use the real bolt like a drift to push it out the otherside whilst getting correctly positioned. I think that might work!
WTF is a brodle?
From Wikipedia - first/third-person singular subjunctive I; singular imperative.
I think I might also try reversing a bit and stamping on the brakes to push the axle, I am not sure there is anything that soldin on the truck to attach a ratchet strap to.
It's a pointy length of metal. Long enough to get some leverage on. Thick enough not to bend . Might have 2 ds in it.
Large punch.
Based on the feedback I am first going to reverse the truck onto the drive so the bonnet is up hill which will hopefully push the rear suspension forward a bit. If that doesn't work on it's own I will make a tapered drift that I can push into the hole from one side and then push right the way through with the actual bolt.
Thanks all!
Aye need a podger.
Or get someone on a wheel brace to roll the suspension in.
Check your mot testers cool with welding though. Some hate seeing it on suspension components
Think its a South Yorkshire term. Going back to when the mines were open all the Fitters had a selection in their tool bags.
Shove a taper punch in the back and the bolt into the front. Leather the bolt as needed to made it through.
Don’t do it on the ground. You’ll not drag a tyre over the ground. Needs to be in the air
Tracey, it's a broddler.
I'm an ex-pit fitter and yes, I had one in my toolbag.
A bar (by whatever name you use) or a clamp if there's access. And do it with the vehicle off the ground and don't fully tighten until it's back on the ground.
Hate to be a party pooper as I love a good bodge but if it broke, and you've welded it back up it's likely to be slightly shorter. How much that matters depends on the suspension design but I wouldn't be surprised if that broke again fairly soon if you can get the bolt back in.
The other side snapped in the same place a few years ago. Apparently it is a common fault on the Fourtrak. I welded that and it has been through a couple of MOTs without issue. There doesn't appear to be any problems as it is welded and then extra bracing plates added on 2 sides so it is more and thicker metal than before. I know it is not ideal but it is an old truck that is used for <5,000 miles a year to take tools to dig days and art to market. It doesn't do off roading or long, continuous journeys that will really stress it.
I think the weight needs taking off that axle by jacking and blocking both wheels and then you should get enough wiggle room to use your pilot drift followed by the bolt?
MC is right, welded repairs on suspension components are officially a dangerous fail regardless of how it's done. Course, not everyone's going to spot it, or fail it even if they do.