[Closed] inspired by shed threads, do you think its possible for.....

If it bugs you now, it'll bug you even more in 6 months time when it'll be considerably harder to change...

nope, im over it now 🙂

went outside for a stare at it and realised that i couldnt do it the other way as theres roof joists in the way of nailing the braces to the roof beam.
plus wife likes it (oooh we can dangle pretty lights from them) so theyre there to stay. thats that then.

NO idea which is the better solution from an engineering perspective but I like them. Good work that man.

I'm a fan of those post braces. I made mine at 50cm along their longest edges so they don't steal too much space.

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They do look slightly odd but you'll probably get used to it and not even notice after a while. If they do bug you you could add some more timber on the front of the uprights going up to meet them from the floor so they don't look quite so obvious....

I'm a fan of those post braces.

that your car??

that your car??

No, some guys came to do a photoshoot here. The results were outstanding.

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aye, lovely photos, thanks for sharing.

two quick questions please as im looking to order the roof materials tomorrow.

1. googled this and cant find the info. does anyone know how thick the 38kg mineral roofing felt is please? need to order galvanised clout nails and not sure what length to go for. or should i just order the longest they do?

2. ill be nailing felt to the ply, then screwing some battens on top of it. over the 6.7m span of the roof, how many battens would you use? and would you put them at the edges too, or just a few strategically placed in the middle somewhere? and just 2x1 roofing battens yep?

thanks

I wouldn't use batons over the felt. Your just trapping water.

I wouldn't use batons over the felt. Your just trapping water

as i mentioned before, we're backed onto open fields at top of a cliff and get some howlers from time to time. wouldnt battens give me a bit more protection? i was thinking of painting adhesive over the area where the battens go so when i screw them down and the adhesive dries i get a watertight seal.
oh, and the trapping water thing. i was expecting the battens to run down the slope, not across the roof, no?

3. also on the felt situation, does the real thick stuff fold over and under easily without tearing? i have visions of it being so thick when i try and fold it over and under a 12mm bit of overhung ply, that it rips as its not pliable enough. also thinking about those places where shed felt folds over on itself so in effect theres 2 layers of felt in some corners. will it rip?
reasonable fear or ungrounded? if i may have problems with that should i go for a compromise felt, a bit lighter than the 38kg stuff im considering at the moment but still better than the crap stuff?

4. do you cut felt like you would wallpaper, to fit round corners and edges etc? you know, cut into the corners and fold over, or is that a big no-no which may lead to the cuts tearing and leading to water ingress?

thanks

having a bit of a runaround getting shiplap, on my third woodyard now.

first one gave a quote over phone, next day when i told em exact sizes i wanted itd gone up £90. they said no record of yesterdays quote, must have been a mistake, sorry.
2nd woodyard was local so i went for a look, it was untreated, so didnt take it any further. they said they could get tanalised in bit at £1.60 per metre which is way more than other quotes.

on 3rd woodyard now, gave me a quote of £220 which i was happy with, all sorted. then rang next day to say sorry we dont have those sizes in, we only have 4.8 and 3.6 and its a bit thicker at 19mm but ill honour original quote. very good of you i thought, rang back with new amounts of these sizes and its gone up £90. "ah thatll be cos theres more metres now"
"yes but i dont want the waste metres, you said youd honour original quote"
"sorry, £300 cash is lowest i can go"
so.... said ok, lets go for it. just checking, its tanalised, good quality and normal wood colour int it? no, its green.
green???

so..... im umming and ahhing now. not sure that green cladding wont look a bit cr@p. anyone seen any 'green shiplap' from a woodyard and can tell me if its just a light stain from tanalising or actually that dark green colour that some sheds are?

ill ring him later and ask, but its 30 miles away and dont want to get it here and have to say sorry, dont want it....

I was concerned about doing a hard corner when I put my EDPM on (it would probably have been fine), so I screwed roofing batterns to the underside of the edge of my OSB roof, increasing it from 18mm deep to around 50mm deep, then wrapped the rubber round both. Looks nicer (imo) too, a more 'chunky' asthetic than just wrapped around an 18mm edge

thats not a bad call, even if i just tack a bit of inch square bead round the edge, thanks.

just spoken to the bod at woodyard about the 'green' colour of the shiplap. he says yes, its an olive green colour from tanalising, but thatll fade to normal golden brown, and [i]any[/i] tanalised shiplap i get from anywhere would be the same colour. is that right??
id asked a different yard about it previously and theyd implied it was just a light tinge, hardly noticeable.

am i destined to have a green gazebo? and if so will it look ok?? :-/

The green will be gone by the spring, and yes, it's a light tint rather than a solid colour.

The green will be gone by the spring, and yes, it's a light tint rather than a solid colour.

(expect a photo of a comedy gazebo in a couple of weeks time 😉 )

thanks

mate may not be able to help for a while so i may try and do the roof myself. if so, would it matter if i got the ply on and then it rained before i could get the felt on a day or two later? or should i really wait until its a dry spell and a couple of us can get it all done in one day without anything getting wet?

oh and ive been watching youtube vids of blokes fitting shed felt (yeah i know). nobody seems to put the adhesive on the ply, only the felt overlaps, altho theyre ickle sheds rather than a large pent roof. that what you recommend too?

my roof was gonna be a lot messier than theirs, thats for sure! 😀 i was going to have adhesive being used as a sort of sealant too, so painting it past where the overlaps come to, and also thick strips painted where the battens would be screwed, so in effect a batten would 'squidge' down onto the adhesive creating a seal.

obviously all this would result in a messy looking roof with areas of adhesive showing, but as nobody can see the top of the roof at any point i was thinking it didnt matter.

im considering now that this probably isnt how its done, and so much adhesive is maybe overkill.

could i have your thoughts on this please, and also on whether the ply can be left potentially in the rain for a couple of days if the weather turns, or if it needs to all be done quickly in the dry?

thanks

Can you get a tarpaulin that you can throw over for a few date? Or even a tent fly sheet?

ive got one tarp that would cover about half of the area. ive just borrowed another mates saw and done a test cut on one of the bits of ply using a length of decking as a guide.

im thinking i can maybe get half the cuts done ready for fixing (cos im working from one end), then see how well its going as to whether i screw them up and do the remaining cuts to suit the other end.

dont know if its an old saw or its me thats crap but the test cut didnt go through 'like butter' by any means,seemed to move about a bit, the guard getting stuck etc. ive finished with a straight line tho so ill do a finish cut next and hope for the best 😯

well that was a disappointing morning...

sawing went ok, lines went where i wanted them, but i discovered when youre putting lots of sheets of 8ft x 4ft ply together, theyre not very forgiving of how square your building is (or isnt in this case).

first few went so well i even started screwing them down thinking these can be the datums theyre that good. but....as i worked down the front, it soon became apparent my 2" overhang at the front was disappearing. if i unscrewed them to make the front good then the sides would taper away.

so..... got some thinking to do. ive got a fair bit to play with at the back so i could 'push it all forward', mark an (uneven) line along the front and cut to that so it at least looks ok, but then ive got to consider the felt will need to roll over a true line really.
or i could reconsider the overhang and have none, just a big box shape, but i cant get my head around how i can finish it off to look ok. got decking planks to finish it with but theyd look better under an overhang.

decisions decisions.... any help here much appreciated.

I'd try to maintain a parallel line along the front edge and those you will see. If that means pulling the sheets forward and to the side to give you enough material to then remark and cut a line then it's the easiest solution. You might need to up in another noggin here or there to give you something to nail to.

Sometimes you have to be pragmatic

yep, thanks.

after a few hours lying in bed thinking about it, im ready for a full day at it on my own today. looks like the fronts slightly out with the sides (and joists) so if i make the front the datum, then the edges of the plyboards will run off the joists at an angle and itll bug me every time i see it.

im going to pull the sheets forward as you advise, run a pencil line all the way round at 2"+, saw to the line, replace on roof and move noggins to suit joins, screw a bit of 2x1 around the edge, then im ready for felting. phew.

was thinking of saving time by taking the saw up to the roof but feel that may be a foolish step too far 🙂

shouldnt be any issues with running the 8m lengths of felt along the width should there, rather than lots of 1m strips side by side running down the slope?

thanks

well that was a hard, hard, hard. hard day!! just finished now, had a full day at it on me own and im hurting. but...... got the roof on!

so hard on your own tho, up and down ladders all the time to fetch stuff thats on the ground, lifting ply up and down.

did as i mentioned above, started by pushing everything forwards. when i was happy everything was going to fit i screwed the centre bits down so that if i had to move anything, at least i knew where they were going back.

moved all the noggins to suit the new joins, then foolishly did what i said i wouldnt ^^^^ 😀 just couldnt face lifting more ply up and down myself, so decided to risk the circular saw on the roof. worked a treat, and im still here to tell the tale 🙂 saved a fair bit of time that.

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then i screwed a load of 2x1 all the way round the edges as recommended earlier to give the appearance of a thicker roof when the felts wrapped round it. ran out of scraps so used a few of the roof battens i intended to put up later.

then onto the felt. went fine, just took a while tho. rolled em out lengthways, cut to size, adhesive on the overlaps then clout nails for good measure. then spent ages tacking all the edges and underneaths.

ran out of time in the end but i was determined to make it waterproof today as we're away for a couple of days tomorrow.

back to it on wednesday, ill finish tacking clout nails at the back, then cut and screw decking boards just under the felt to face it all off. ooh also get a few battens left so i think ill put 4 battens up squidged into adhesive, and may also coat the joins with adhesive too, just for extra 'waterproofness'.

cheers

EDIT: was getting dark when i finished so no pics of it with felt on yet, may take one in the morning.

That's looking very shedlike. It's coming together well.

I'm taking notes........ we've got plans for next year to fill an unusable corner of the garden with a gazebo of some description.

I'll either build it myself or kidnap mcmoonter and ply him with single malt until he builds it for me.

😉

It's looking good. The 2x1's you've fixed on the underside of the ply are also there to give something solid to fit a fascia ( decorative or otherwise ) to. This serves 2 purposes..1 it tidies it up nicely and actually finishes it off.. 2. It holds the felt down which in turn stops the wind getting underneath the felt.. I can send a pic if you want..

Only lay the felt horizontally.....

yes id like to see pics thanks, im interested to see what others have done.

as for a 'decorative fascia', im planning on using simple decking boards across the top and sides, just tucked under that 2x1, screwed to the 4x2 ring beam and hiding the felt edge.

2. It holds the felt down which in turn stops the wind getting underneath the felt.

Only lay the felt horizontally....

EDIT: (not a very clear) pic of the horizontal felt just as i finished it the other day. plan on screwing two or three battens down the slope for added wind protection. think ill squidge these onto felt adhesive for a watertight seal. might look a bit messy with adhesive on show but the top of the roof cant be seen.

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Looks awesome that! Nice work.

[teachersvoice]Wear some eye and ear protection with those tools![\teachersvoice]

[teachersvoice]Wear some eye and ear protection with those tools![\teachersvoice]

H&S gone mad! I think you overestimate the risk a paintbrush represents.

😀

Looks awesome that! Nice work.

time for a bit more advice now please......

1. ive finished the decking fascias now, and was going to screw my battens in to finish the roof off. as i mentioned before, i was going to squidge them down onto some adhesive for sealing. ive offered the battens up and its become apparent that theres some bigger gaps between batten and roof that wouldnt squidge down to seal. so..... next thought was to just blob a bit of silicone sealant under where a screw would go, then screw down through that, so in effect, 4 or 5 isolated blobs of sealant per batten. be less messy too. that sound ok?

2. im also tempted to run a stripe of adhesive across each of the 3 long joins of felt overlaps. ive got adhesive underneath each overlap anyway, but that doesnt come quite to the edge so im just thinking about wind getting underneath the edges, belt and braces if you like. is it a valid concern, or will time and the sun just melt the edges together anyway so nothing to worry about? (there wasnt a clear strip of felt with no grit on these rolls like ive seen on some). and if it was a concern would fixing the battens stop the need for this anyway?

thanks

I just discovered two leaks from the felt sheet seams on a couple of sheds I built a few years ago (which is why I use EPDM now) and sorted it with some of that flashing tape. Seams [sic] to have done the trick.

This stuff...

http://www.screwfix.com/p/flashband-bostik-flashband-flashband-grey-10-x-100mm/57969

Best done with a roller and a heat gun. I'll probably get flamed by someone on here for doing it, tho...

Looks good BTW. Especially the arty sunset shot...

I just discovered two leaks from the felt sheet seams on a couple of sheds I built a few years ago

No adhesive applied during fitting which could have made the difference, I guess. Overlapped by about 5" and no visible sign of rips or tears other than a small lift around one of the tacks. I think it was just the angle of the rain and the accompanying wind as it's never happened before.

That stuff is quite cheap and it actually looks quite tidy once it's up so I was glad I did so. As you've used adhesive I doubt you'll get the same ingress past the point the adhesive sits. As for wind - didn't I read you live on a cliff edge or something? If it was me I'd slap on a few strips of that stuff just for the overkill effect but I rarely do things by the book.

I was merely suggesting it as a belt and braces approach but some will probably see it as unnecessary. And it's nice stuff to squidge down with a roller...

yeah looks like it may be a tidier option, think id need 3 rolls tho so talking £36 plus a roller (what sort of roller do you need for that stuff? and why cant you just 'tread it down'?)

also i was wondering whether it sticks well onto a gritty surface. i know as i was banging in each clout nail all the grit was bouncing up and down, so would it actually stick to the felt, or just absorb all the loose grit granules and not hold fast?

ive still got a full tin of adhesive i bought for around £25 i think which i havent broken into, so i could return that to part-fund it i spose.

thanks

Had I not already bought a roller I doubt I would've thought of using one, instead opting for a plank and some slow walking but the roller definitely pushes the stuff onto the material, especially if using a heat gun or midday sun.

As for the loose slate - not sure. Mine are over two years old so anything loose would be gone by now but I gave it a good brush with a stiff bristled variety and a lung-aching blow along the length before I laid the stuff so I guess you could follow that approach. Like I wrote - I didn't use adhesive so you'll probably be okay. The thing that I like about this stuff is its ability to cover the tacks, which in theory shouldn't leak anyway but...y'know...

Roller - something like this...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcingmap-Dampening-Applicator-Ballistic-Installation/dp/B00A8W9GWS/ref=pd_cp_263_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=EJCB30CANM476WGAA2ZE

ok thanks. gut feeling is ill just screw the battens down and use silicone sealant where the screws enter the felt. ive got that already so saves unnecessary expense.

couple more questions about treatment please.....

1. ive got some of [url= http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Painting+%26+Decorating/d150/Exterior+Wood+Care/sd3176/Ensele+End+Grain+Treatment+1L/p32693 ]this end grain treatment[/url]. been using it on the cut ends. im going to be buying untreated planed timber for beading and edging for the shiplap, shed window etc. now if i coat this planed timber in the end grain treatment, am i actually 'tanalising' it in effect? or is this stuff just sealing the ends to stop weather getting under the tanalising if you see what i mean? is tanalising the same as 'pressure treated', or is it just an added dip?

2. i was going to coat the whole structure in somethings like ronseal 5yr treatment when ive finished. is this end grain stuff better or worse than that? the timber ive used so far has all been tanalised so i cant imagine im bringing any extra protection to the party using 'tanalising end grain protection' too, sounds like id just be going over it in what its already got.

thanks

3. just got the shiplap delivered today, looks good stuff so if the weathers kind ill be getting stuck into that come monday. was just thinking tho, ill obviously be starting at the bottom, but should my first plank be about half inch off the decking, so it doesnt absorb any moisture?

bumpity bump for the post weekend stw-reading crowd......

starting the cladding tomorrow so would still appreciate answers to the above 3 questions please. oh and also....

4. any tips for cladding round tops and bottoms of shed windows (and door)? or is it just a case of the boards lie where they lie and i may have to jigsaw bits out in certain places?

thanks

DISASTER!! sat inside it waiting for the rain to stop so i could carry on cutting shiplap when.... SPLOP on my nose. looked up, THE ROOFS LEAKING!! nooooooooo! how?????

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dripping down the wood onto the decking. quick inspection and this is happening in a few places, and this is only light rain :-/

went up on the roof and all looks fine....

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theres no wind, so it cant be water driven up the slope, theres no rips in the felt, i can only think water is pooling around the clout nails and seeping in there. but its just such light rain im amazed its coming in. soooo gutted, its my baby 😀

all i could think of doing was going back up there and putting little blobs of weatherproof sealant around every nail. im using this....
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like this...
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right thing to do? anything else i can try besides re-roofing? i was so sure id done a real good job of it.

Flashing tape...? 🙂

Mine was leaking in the same manner and I put sealant over the tacks. That lifted in time and it leaked a few weeks back. Tape is holding up well - no leaks so far.

Incidentally, I found some a lot cheaper on Amazon - about a fiver a roll. Not sure if it sticks down the same as the branded stuff but it might be worth a punt.

ok thanks, ill look into that and maybe order some. for now ive got a toolstation nearby so looking at buying [url= http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Roofing+%26+Drainage/d250/Roof+Compound+%26+Waterseals/sd2809 ]one of these waterproofing products.[/url]

gut feeling is trowel mastic may be thicker and better.

its still leaking now even tho i put the silicone over the nails. should i scrape the sealant away to coat in mastic do you think, or just paste the gunk over the top of the lot?

ta

may need to run some sealant all the way along the join. it's not that much of a pitch there so quite feasible for water to capillary creep up the joint.

You can't beat felt on sheds roofs!! Lets get a waterproof membrane and then hammer nails in it. The whole thing is a bloody stupid idea. I have just done a shed roof like you and to save money used felt. Oh and guess what even with loads of mastic, it still leaks.

When I have a bit more money its all coming off and I am going with the a rubber glued down roof. Twice the price but should be fit and forget