Subscribe now and choose from over 30 free gifts worth up to £49 - Plus get £25 to spend in our shop
Firstly apologies to kryton57 the BMW had to go ! Lovely car but too small and way to thirsty...
bought this instead
130 tdi automatic diesel
[URL= http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q685/unfitggeezer/E2888B88-CF98-4280-B57D-9F486FA7E47C-1168-00000206B51D5BA9_zpsfgcnndjq.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q685/unfitggeezer/E2888B88-CF98-4280-B57D-9F486FA7E47C-1168-00000206B51D5BA9_zpsfgcnndjq.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
2 owners last owner over 10 years full service history lovely condition.
When I got home had a good look at the car and have noticed that by the left hand wheel its a bit oily above it is the oil cooler so I'm guessing its leaked or its leaking, is this normal for this ? Expensive fix ? bought from a trader...all bills present phoned the previous owner as number on bills and they loved the car but bought a new car.
Should I be worried ?
Thanks
Could be a split CV boot which makes a mess of the wheel.
doesn't look like a cv boot will check in the morning...
Dealer = Warranty ,take it back for repair ?
give that man a pint !
[URL= http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q685/unfitggeezer/011F988E-F804-42E6-A0BD-1E4C09D63A1C-1168-00000208C154A45F_zps7b3flqkt.jp g" target="_blank">
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/q685/unfitggeezer/011F988E-F804-42E6-A0BD-1E4C09D63A1C-1168-00000208C154A45F_zps7b3flqkt.jp g"/> [/IMG][/URL]
Will phone tomorrow out of interest what would that cost to fix ? if he's not helpful...or would this do the trick
just get the proper part and either fit yourself or get a garage to do
Its a pita to do, taking the drive shaft out involves undoing the strut, which uses a pinch bolt that will be stuck solid. Fire will be needed
Split cv boots are pants. If you get a new boot kit fitted it will last longer than you have the car. Put car on full lock if it clicks or knocks get a new joint fitted while your on.
Oops double post.
If you've caught it in time then stretchy boots (Bailcast are the softest I have found) used with a cone and lube spray over the CV joint or something like a GKN one were you knock the CV joint off.
Those split ones are rubbish, although I did have to fit one to a BMW once as an emergency job as the bolts were so rusty. More of a problem on FWD than RWD cars as there is more articulation which causes them to fail.
CV boots are one of those jobs I happily pay a garage to do. In fact I've got to the point I can't be arsed dicking about on my drive so most jobs go to the garage.
I did one recently on our Passat. It's wasn't that difficult. Six torx or splined bolts holding the inner joint on. I think it's a 16mm Allen key bolt that holds the drive shaft into the hub. Disconnect the lower ball joint, can't remember if there was an anti roll bar bush too. Drive shaft out and into the vice. I think I pulled the joint off to fit the boot.
I enjoy doing CV obits as it gives me the opportunity to use the coolest tool ever. It closes the metal band then crimps it.
[img] 
[/img]
It's probably an hour and a halfs work.
I'd definatly pursue the dealer for the repair.
Only knew because mine went recently. As above replacing the CV boot is a pain. Easiest method is to just replace the drive shaft. Your taken the hub off anyway. A tap with the mallet on the other side of the shaft and it's all off. A new shaft with CV joints and boot already fitted it's just a matter of pushing the new one into place.
Hopefully it's from a garage and under warranty so it's someone else's problem to sort out.
Will give him a polite call in the morning...and see how I go !
Thanks one and all
Normally costs me about £45 for a CV boot fitted. Will depend on where you go though. Always chickened out of doing it myself, with the fear of having a half assembled, 3 wheeled car sat outside the house, with no way of getting it to the garage once I raise the white flag.
It would be an MOT fail though, so I guess considered un-roadworthy and not fit for sale... Take it back, see what they say.
The n/s cv boot is one of the easiest ones to do. Remove wheel, remove big bolt through center of hub/bearing, remove small plastic trim(held in with t20 torx) around driveshaft where it goes through chassis leg,remove 6 bolts attaching shaft to gearbox drive flange. Shaft will now release from gearbox allowing you to lift inner end above gearbox gaining space to remove outer joint from hub, remove complete shaft from car, clamp shaft in vise and replace boot. Rebuild in reverse. Drivers side is a pain in the butt due to multi link suspension.
Simplest/cleanest option is to book it in where ever the trader will pay to do the work to bring the car up to mot standard.
Should have bought an Alfa 159 SW.... 8) 😉
My old Passat Company car (130 like yours) was utterly BOMBPROOF other than going through 4 cv joints in 230k miles. Otherwise it never missed a beat and is still going strong as a pool car. Bloody brilliant it was.
*TANNOY*
Molgrips to the forum please! Repeat: Molgrips to the forum please!
😀
Just FYI, it's a stretch bolt that holds the driveshaft into the hub, which shouldn't be reused. Replacement driveshafts come with new bolts but CV boot kits don't seem to...
New Passat B8 arriving in 2 weeks.... can't wait....
Just had my CV boots and gaiters(?) done yesterday. £333 the lot inc MOT. Seems to be a constant since owning my Golf.
what you doing to your boots to kill em.....(new car fella excepted and dont accept a slice and dice cv repair - they dont last)
my mate goes through blingo cv boots and subsequently joints as he doesnt know where underside of his car is costs him a fortune at the garage, says he wont buy another blingo because of this......anotehr mate had the same issue on a 206 back in the day
Ive never done one in - i did have to remount a boot once after i did a driveshaft seal and broke the crimp clip(btw mcmoonter HOOOOW MUCH .... i looked for a pair then decided zipties it was) - and i took the opportunity while it was open to refil with grease.
Those older passats are the job. I had one from new up to 150k on the clock and it never missed a beat. Sold it a few years back for a 2007 model and wish I never had, the newer one was a peice of shit in comparison, 2 new electronic hand brakes, siezed caliper, clutch bearing, bust radiator, leaking water bottle the list goes on. Was delighted to get rid of it last week, after 5yrs of problems enough was enough.
Not just me then.
Spoke to the trader he is sending me £80 via cheque to cover the cost...
Kryton57 - Member
Should have bought an Alfa 159 SW....
I'll wait till you sell it...if its not rusted through 😆
My old Passat had a habit of nipping drive shaft outer gaiters if on full lock going over 1" kerbing in front of my house.....or any other similar rise.....so never apply full lock on and off the driveway onto the road and you will never nip another gaiter.
One other word of advice, if you're running bikes on roof mount rails, check them annually pop off the plastic covers, look at the condition of the rubber seals between the feet of the roof rails and the roof and check the bolts are still tight. My Passat eventually rusted through the roof at rail mount points where rubber feet pads were located caused by 12 years of multiple bikes and journeys on the rails. A symptom of them perishing/failing was water in roof lining above rear view mirror.....which progressed into a lap full at its worst!
unfitgeezer - No idea where you are but if your near Leeds, I can highly recommend a garage called Smashing http://www.vwspecialists.co.uk/ brilliant little garage for VW and Audi. Great blokes and really know their stuff.
No where near Leeds...thanks though 🙂
As Ive not owned a modern diesel I have another question !
Noticed this morning after sitting all night went to start it and glow plug light illuminated and went out almost instantly I guess this is normal ??!
My old 1985 VW 1.6d glow plug light take a few seconds to go out but then again theres no computer controlling it !
Thanks all
Yupp
...Okay another question !
Asking on here as plenty of Passat owners on here and diesel owners so apologies !
It relates to the glow plug light following on from my question yesterday which its normal for the glow plug light to go out almost instantly...
... I noticed today that the glow plug light took 5 or 6 seconds to go out this was when it had been used and warm, and when starting say 10 mins later it went out instantly.
Im guessing this is all normal as well ?
Thanks in advance !
I cant say I look at my dash that much, fire it up drive off..
How much did it set you back, picked mine up few months ago, can fault it, straight through mot..ish stupid tester
okay update from 30 mins ago !
just went to shops light out straight away got back to car took 10 seconds to go out so so turned key off again same 10 seconds to go out , start then turn off then the light went out straight away ! drove home turned off then went to restart the light stayed on for 10 seconds did this twice 10 seconds again so at least its consistent ! weird car
Should I be worried ? It goes out it drives fine ! should I worry about something worth while ?
Paid £1700 101000 miles full history 2 owners.
Diesel Passat's of that era 1.9tdi's are very reliable. Make sure it's had it's water pump and cambelt done.
Ps it's not a modern diesel that's why its such a good car!
Don't worry about the light.
Schweet well mines got 80k on yours, youll have it a while. Just dont replace the suspension arms with cheap crap when the inevitably go.
RE glow plugs, I never wait for that milarcy.
cam belt done last year got bills from VW !
thought it could be a temp sensor issues but reading up on the googlebible 10 seconds is the set relay time, probably the temp sensor or battery is on way out but nothing major to worry about just yet !!?? if it goes out it goes out all is fine then !!?! I hate buying new (old) cars quirks an all that !
Just relax, I had glow plug light always flickering on when driving with my old vw 1.9tdi and never had a problem, still pulled like a small train
Mine lasted me 12 years was great car before it began to get expensive. There was a recall done on front wishbone arms however mine were fine when they were checked and failed a year later.....bit of a faff of a job as you have to drop the entire suspebsion units to get them on and set up properly so you don't rip the bushes when you put the weight of the car on them again.
As for glow plug light, from my memory the glow plugs will not activate above 10 or 5 centigrade can't remember which....just turn the key and go ( although it will be a tiny bit rough for a few seconds).
Thiis may account for any inconsistency in times for glow plug light etc!
As has been said cam belts vital which you've had done, and oil change on time with good quality oil (I used to use Mobil 1 but I think that's why mine lasted well over 250000 of hard driving untouched).
Keep your eye on the auxiliary belt and check the alternator pulley. It has a clutch mechanism in the pulley wheel that should stop the belt from going slack and bouncing.....they fail, which basically shows by spinning the pulley in both directions. If you don't replace the pulley, £48 for the part but it entails taking the front of the car to do the job and a special tool (which I still have), it will knacker up the auxiliary belt tensioner and snap it's spring costing you an additional £48 for it too.
Air mass meters can be touchy if you live in an area with speed bumps and as mine didn't have keyless central locking all my barrels fell apart and had to be replaced.
And dual mass flywheel/clutch will account for £400-£800 depending on who you get to do it.
As for glow plug light, from my memory the glow plugs will not activate abovecan't remember which....just turn the key and go ( although it will be a tiny bit rough for a few seconds).10 or 5 centigrade
Thiis may account for any inconsistency in times for glow plug light etc!
17 degrees today ! 🙄
Just by way of balance: I had a 2001 1.9TDI for 12 years. After an initial 5 years without issues I had the following issues:
Broken front suspension springs
4 lots of front suspension arms
Snapped window cable
Injector wiring loom failure
Split turbo hose
CV joints
Turbo boost sensor fail
Coolant temp sensor fail
Roof rails work loose
Blocked plenum chamber drains (hidden under battery + servo so hard to clear; why does all the rainwater coming down the windscreen end up in there?). Caused brake servo to rot through, jamming on brakes and sucking water into the oil sump.
Head gasket fail.
Whilst the car was a good load carrier it did handle like a brick.
Sensor issue then perhaps....like others I'd be tempted to either ignore it or get the fault code and replace the iffy sensor.
Thanks that's what I think
Last question I promise, taking it in for an oil change this week then I know it's done, today I noticed that the temp gauge moves around ( not over heating) normal running would be halfway which it stays at then it will move slightly lower and then up again( I get that on my 30 year old vw camper) so expect it's the same issue, been looking on a Vw forum and it's the engine temp sensor which has been mentioned on here as well.
Sound feasible ? Just want to go with as much info to my mechanic.
Very possible the sensor and or sticking thermostat which of course will mess with temp sensor. They're housed in the same bit of pipe work from memory and not difficult to change. If your mechanic has the relevant fault code reader it will have codes stored for the dodgy sensors.
Mines the same. Advise is do the stat and the plastic housing as it breaks removing old stat. Just waiting for a nice day
Great cars,had two 130 TDI sports. took them both to 140,000 before I chickened out.
things to check
pollen filter - if it gets clogged then water can seep into the car and get in the convenience module which controls the central locking and air con among other things. - convenience module is in the passenger footwell directly in the path of water from the pollen filter
front wings - if theres any corrosion on the front wheel archs, get it down to a VW dealer. it should still be covered under the VW ant-perforation and while VW haven't admitted fault they do make a contribution to the repair costs ( i got 70% on a wing that had already had paintwork done)
VCDS - brilliant diagnostic tool that replicates all of the dealer level diagnostics so you can read fault codes and do general fault finding. [url= http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/ ]http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/[/url]
VCDS lite is free and is the one you need. you can get a third party interface on ebay for about a tenner and you are away. I've got one I don't need anymore somewhere so if you want it drop me a PM.
Righto I went to the mechanic today and he plugged it into his super duper snap on machine and it came up with cFault code: P1256 = coolant temp sensor short to positive, AHHH so it was that sensor ! Good work chaps its going in next week for CV boot and sensor.
I do have yet another question !!!
Noticed that the left hand fan permanently runs and the right hand side only comes on when the ECON/AIRCON button pressed which its supposed to do.
Is the left hand fan always on ? (in the BMW it was always on ) If so then i guess it speeds up if it needs to cool engine down.
And if not then maybe that issue is connected to the faulty sensor.
Many thanks
And if not then maybe that issue is connected to the faulty sensor.
That.
pollen filter - if it gets clogged then water can seep into the car
Surely you mean the drain hole under the battery?
you can get a third party interface on ebay
And rip off the very good people at RossTech who do a lot of work making the software...
Underneath the battery tray on the bulkhead is a black one way flapped 'valve' that drains the scuttle under the battery tray of rain water, this tray rubs the full width of the car, below the plastic screen trim. The drain hole often become bunged up with pine needles and other detritus if you park under trees in the woods a lot and it's vital that you check that area drains easily....it drains down out of sight. If you have thin hands and arms you can run your hand or a small ruler say along the underside of that scuttle tray, find the drain hole pllug valve thingy in the centre line of the bulkhead and use a pokey stick/finger to loose up any pine needles/crap. If you don't do the above the under battery tray area back fills with water and it will enter your foot wells and kick plates via you cabin heater inlet. I used to have to do mine every six months without fail!
As for the fan, yep faulty sensor will cause that issue too.
Have had another look at the fan and with the key turned on engine not running the fan is stationary but turn engine on it starts to spin the fan is conected to the belts, waterpump etc.
I turned the fan when engine was off and it turns freely.
If it's not supposed to be like that then hopefully the sensor will rectify that problem.
Also had code which is probably been thrown up because of faulty coolent sensor.
Which is why the fan is on all the time !
P1672 - Volkswagen
Type Powertrain - Manufacturer Controlled DTC - Manufacturer Controlled
Description
Engine coolant blower motor, speed 1 - open circuit/short to ground
Cause
Wiring open circuit/short to ground
Try also: http://www.obd-codes.com/p1672
Oo hang on I'm a dumbf....the fan your on about is the viscous linked fan on the engine block....so yes it will freely spin and spin all the time when the engines running....chuff all to do with sensors!
And not faulty the engine fan that is....
To check the electrically driven fan leave the car ticking over until it kicks in ( normally between temp gauge showing three quarters agai n from memory). It should run for a few minutes then switch off when the engine temps back to normal. This fan will of course be influenced by the signal being received from the faulty sensor!
Phew !
So it's meant to turn when the engine is on !
Yep it's a viscous coupling 😆
What and how does that work ?
And why?
Viscous fan should not spin or spin only slowely and should be about to be stopped by hand on a cold engine
As the engine gets hot the fluid in heats up and becomes more viscous meaning the fan kicks in
A viscous fan that spins at full speed with a cold engine is a ****ed viscous fan.
And why?
Just interested
A viscous fan that spins at full speed with a cold engine is a **** viscous fan.
Its not at full speed though Im not sure Id want to stick my hand in ! But its prob running slightly fast due to the sensor ? !?!
The other fan comes on if I turn ECON off and run aircon so thats working
The viscous fan wasn't fubarred on my Passat and there is no way I would purposefully put my hand anywhere near it....those blade edges are very sharp and having once caught it accidentally, it bloody hurts!