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I've bought some second hand hardwood doors and some new Wickes hardwood frames.
The inside face of the frames is not flat. It's got a recessed area down the middle with raised edges.
I've chiselled a bit of the raised area away to clear the hinges, but it means the hinges sit flat on the recessed area, not sunk in flush like every other door and frame I have ever looked at.
If I was to sink the hinges in flush, the door would be too close to the raised area.
It looks like this at the moment.
I thought sinking the hinge in to the frame helped locate it, rather than just relying on the shear strength of the screws.
Do modern doors have a raised area along the centre of the edge to match this frame ?
Should I be using thicker hinges ?
Is there some other explanation ?
Just bumping this up in case we've got any carpenters in today.
Not my subject, but if the door closes onto it would the groove be for that fireproofing strip?
plane the raised edges so the frame is flush then recess the hinges.
Doors and frames come in a limited variety of standard sizes.
I bought these frames to match the second hand doors.
If I plane the raised edge off, it will be too big.
Thicker hinges would be the obvious solution, but looking at the pictures on Screwfix, Toolstation and elsewhere, they all look about about the same, even the heavy duty fire door hinges.
in that case... make a fillet of wood to go in the wood frame.
then recess the hinges into that
I'm more of a metal worker than a wood worker.
If I can't just buy the correct hinges, I'd rather weld a 3mm plate on the back of some standard steel hinges than try to plane a bit of hardwood down to fill the gap.
It's a standard door frame and a standard door. I can't understand why the two are not compatible.
I can't help thinking there's some obvious answer that I've overlooked that a proper carpenter could point out straight away.
i can't see properly from your photo, but i think you're describing a groove cut into the rebate of the frame to accept intumescent strip(fireproofing). first off sink your hinges into the door so that they fit just under flush with the door edge, offer your door up to the frame, mark you hing position. sink your hinges into the frame so they fit flush with the raised area, which is the actual rebate (ignore the groove for now. the cutout for the hinge should be almost as deep as the groove. then hang the door (we are assuming the frame is fitted secure, plumb and level.) if you've used correct hinges (fire door hinges, each plate is about 3mm thick) you should have about 3/4mm gap all around door
good luck
it looks like a rebate for a intumescent strip, you can get fire & smoke types that generally just fit in and fix with some sticky back tape.
you dont need to put these in, you could just put some timber in if the doors arent meant to be fire rated.
hope this helps
Yep, its hard to see in your pic but i think it is just a gap for a fire strip. Would have thought they would supply something to fill this in the frame kit? (either a fire strip or blank wood strip).
But looks like you dont need to recess the hinges. The wood strip should go flush with the hinge and the edge of the grooves.
I wondered if it was for some sort of fire strip, but I thought they were only used on internal doors. I couldn't think of a reason why smoke should be stopped from escaping through an exterior door.
B&Q do fire door hinges, but they haven't got them in store, so I can't go in and have a look before I buy.
It's no problem fitting the door as it is. I just thought that the hinges should be sunk in flush so that the wood helps locate and support them.
Mounting the hinges on the surface, relying entirely on the screws, looks like a weaker way of hanging a door to me.
You might want a fire strip on an external door to prevent fresh air being drawn in to feed to the fire. Or for insulation. Or the door might open into a conservatory or something.
think fire door hinges from screwfix are 3.2mm? in any case, your door only wants a 2-3mm gap all round, if its more than that, you'll want to move one side of the frame in
any better pictures,by the look and location of the screw holes you have got an external frame and amay be trying to hang internal doors in them, internals are thinner, usuually 1 and 3/8 wide as oposed to external which are from 1 3/4 to 2 1/4 thick on older houses.


