Have a fairly heavy cabinet to fix. 4 screw points. Wall is tiled with wooden frame and I think little bits of wood plastered over (don't know the name) not plasterboard.
Placed the cab where we want it and drilled 4 pilots, only one has hit solid wood, rest are in a void.
What is the best way to fit some sort of plasterboard plug?
I think you are going to have to find the solid beams in the walls. Sounds like you have already found one.
and I think little bits of wood plastered over (don't know the name) not plasterboard.
Lath?
I've hung similarly heavy bits of furniture to plasterboard with these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-self-drill-plasterboard-fixings-metal-35mm-100-pack/47347
I've no idea if they would work in lath though so you might be better off with the expanding style pasterboard fittings.
Or just do it properly and find the studs.
I'd remove the tiles that are going to be behind the cabinet, cut a slot in the plasterboard then slide in a couple of planks and fix them inside the wall with some "sticks like sh1t" or similar where the holes are going to fall then put in some large wood screws to fix it up.
Read [url= http://www.fischer.co.uk/PortalData/10/Resources/support/sales-documents/documents/Plasterboard_Fixings_Guide_webversion.pdf ]this[/url].
The [url= http://www.fischer.co.uk/Home/tabid-1429/tabid-1434.aspx/cpage-details/pcategory-1001133770/usetemplate-productdetails/ ]Fischer metal cavity fixing [/url] might be the solution. The recommended maximum loads for a single fixing are given in a pdf on the Downloads tab on that page.
OK might be plasterboard. Wall depth with tiles is 22mm before void which just rules out the metal fixings I just bought... grrrrrrr
Removing tiles means retiling the whole bathroom as no spares and I think I will only be able to hit one support possibly 2.
Buggering. Supposed to be a 30 min job drilling 4 holes....
Do you have a[url= https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dr-Meter-Backlight-Electronic-StudSensor-Calibration/dp/B01H1RNO7A/ref=pd_lpo_60_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=878MSN9BJDST2Q8R6QJ2 ] batten finder?[/url]
Surprising useful and accurate.
Ta for the link just bought some of those in wickes but the biggest they had was 5 x 37. Looks like an Amazon order it is....
Or can you possibly site it on a solid structural wall? That would be my preferred option.
Afraid wifey wants it above the sink, so it's that wall.
Have a baton finder thing but must say I find it quite unreliable never reassures me massively. Where I drilled today on the upper screws was both supposed to be a support....
Question on those Fischer things.... The surface is tiled so are those little teeth going to bite in? I could aim for a deeper set and set them through the wood of the cabinet but that would make it difficult to remove.
Could they crack the tile? Suppose if they did that decides I'm retiling
No more nails full tube
Job jobbed 😈
Question on those Fischer things.... The surface is tiled so are those little teeth going to bite in? I could aim for a deeper set and set them through the wood of the cabinet but that would make it difficult to remove.Could they crack the tile? Suppose if they did that decides I'm retiling
I've not had that scenario (I used them to hang a bathroom cabinet, but the wall was not tiled).
I guess the teeth could crack the tile. The function of the teeth is to stop the fixing itself rotating when tightening the bolt. Rather than just using the setting tool to squeeze the fixing with the teeth against the bare smooth surface of the tile, could you drill a couple of small pilot holes where the teeth will go, and then use the setting tool, so that rather than the teeth pressing into the tile, the edges of the pilot holes will serve the function of giving the teeth something to resist the turning of the fixing as you tighten the bolt?
could you drill a couple of small pilot holes where the teeth will go
To be clear, I mean a couple of small pilot holes in the tile. So a large hole for the fixing itself to pass through, and two small shallow holes either side of the large hole (diametrically opposed).
Presumably the cupboard is wider than at least two studs? And the issue with hitting studs is that the cupboard has fixed mounting points that don't align with studs? If my interpretation is correct, I'd be getting round that by screwing a timber batten across as many studs as possible, then fixing the cabinet to that. Ideally I'd make that batten a French cleat (google it) and mount a matching cleat on the unit.
Bathroom cupboards are not that heavy. Plastic plasterboard plugs suitable for medium weights should be good enough, but I do like things to be over engineered. I'd use these:-
I've used similar to attache a radiator to a plasterboard wall that the kids managed to pull off its fixings. The wall will give way before these do.
I have some of those fasteners on order. If that fails I'll be trying the French cleat, looks a great solution just a bit more involved
how heavy are you talking , bathroom cabinets are not usually that heavy,
a normal 8 or 6mm rawl plug through the tile works m maybe a little stixall at the same time
I'd estimate around 15kg, then add in whatever stuff the missus puts in it. Around 20kg
Heavy enough it it came off it would make a mess of the sink and tiles....
It does look like the previous owner had hung the old bigger cabinet on 2 brown rawl plugs.
Be aware that stud finders also detect pipes and cables as a solid object eg a stud,always use a combined stud and metal detector, but they dont pick up hdpe pipes, eg plastic ones
A bathroom cabinet's fixings have most of the force acting straight down so very little plugging is required. Unlike a shelf bracket where the majority of the force is trying to rip the fixings out of the wall.
If it's not plasterboard it might be Hardiebacker cement board. Very tough stuff.
Put a big screw into the hole that aligns with the stud and use brown wall plugs for the other ones. You could splurge a tube of gripfill on the back if you are of a nervous disposition. Great smell for days.