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5lab - Memberi've got one of those angle finder tools
sadly, I don't have the ability to cut skirting at that exact an angle, so I normally do it to the nearest 45 degs and just calk the gap
That tool is designed to set the angle on your compound mitre (chop) saw 5lab. Once set, the saw should do the cutting for you. Although TBH I don't find the angle finder to be much practical use - despite it being made by a reputable company - Trend.
I was always told not to mitre skirting in a corner but to cut one piece to fit the other with a fret saw. Could be the old fashioned way?
No, scribing the skirting at the internal corners is still how it should be done - internal mitres are very naughty. Although using a "fret saw" is probably a little old fashioned 😉
Can you take a picture of the guy in the builders merchant when you ask for some please
I like asking for Pinkgrip 🙂
It's actually pretty good stuff.............and it's pink 8)
ernie_lynch - MemberThat tool is designed to set the angle on your compound mitre (chop) saw 5lab. Once set, the saw should do the cutting for you. Although TBH I don't find the angle finder to be much practical use - despite it being made by a reputable company - Trend.
I think my problem is my mitre saw was cheap and sh*tty. It has 'stops' for 22.5 and 45 degrees, and its really difficult to get it to 'stay' in a different angle. its a handsaw, and doesn't clamp the wood to be mitred upright very well. all in all, a crappy tool.
its really difficult to get it to 'stay' in a different angle
I'm surprised you can't lock it in-between 22.5 and 45 degrees, you should be able to - there should be something to tighten up. I agree that hand mitre saws aren't a lot of good, other than for small mouldings and beads. Try clamping it down onto a solid surface, that's more important that clamping the wood imo. And don't force the saw - just let it follow its own line slowly through the wood, the weight of the saw itself should be sufficient to do that.
I had some skirting fitted by a joiner last month, and he did the internal joint that way.
Butt the first piece right into the corner.
Cut the next piece to fit the next run plus the thickness of the previous board.
Cut off the bottom (straight) piece of the end of the second run, leaving the moulding part intact.
Cut through the moulding part at 45° - to give a matching edge.
Cut away the bit left with a fret saw - not so old fashioned it seems!
