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[Closed] climbingtrackworld - advice on new shoes

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Flying Buttress Direct on Stanage which used to be HVS, 5b, and is now given E1.

Can never see why, lots of protection which has got better over the years - Classic HVS 🙂 (from the done it and it wasn't that hard camp)

even on grit, you can't generalise too much about the nature of a route just from the grading.

This +E4 🙂
Each route on it's merits and it's modern regrade.


 
Posted : 30/05/2013 11:00 pm
 Spin
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Well a typical E4, 5c on grit has a few RPs or a loosely fitting rock to protect hard moves with a long fall to the ground if they pull out.

And to complicate matters I could tell you about a few E45c's that are well protected.


 
Posted : 30/05/2013 11:06 pm
 Spin
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However, if you are saying that a UK technical grade (for the hardest move) is likely to give a broadly similar level of difficulty to a problem with the same Font grade you are wrong

I'm convinced (and I'm not alone) that many font 6a's in font are roughly british 6a regardless of what the comparison tables say. Obviously as you go up the grades it drifts away from parity.


 
Posted : 30/05/2013 11:14 pm
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And to complicate matters I could tell you about a few E45c's that are well protected.

Go on then, on grit of course so the length isn't the factor. Old friends was given E4, 5c before Friends when there was a rock on a sling below what you call the crux move though for me it was a relief to get to dry rock with big holds. IMO a lot of routes could have been downgraded when Friends appeared.


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 10:46 am
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It's turned into UKC on here! 🙂


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 10:57 am
 Spin
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Go on then, on grit of course so the length isn't the factor

[url= http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28226 ]Wellington Crack[/url]


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 11:16 am
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didn't the late 80s / early 90's Yorkshire Grit guide (the hardcover blue one) have 3 grades?
E for overall, UK technical and a P rating for protection?


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 11:35 am
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The OP want some information on shoes - note this is different to 'discussions' on climbing grades...


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 11:44 am
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He's bought his shoes now. (And has probably left the thread crying into his chalk bag)


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 11:52 am
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jamj1974 - [s]Member[/s] Interpreter

ok will stop it now


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 12:04 pm
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shut up and enjoy the climbs

... yawn.


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 12:19 pm
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16m of sustained climbing on grit, there had to be one somewhere, Spin. Ta.

I thought the P in the Yorkshire guide was for "prang".


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 2:49 pm
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He's bought his shoes now. (And has probably left the thread crying into his chalk bag)

I have not got a blinking clue what you lot have been on about, and I have a potty mouth.

I only wanted to buy some new shoes 😥


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 2:57 pm
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spawn +1


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 3:00 pm
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I'm very sorry for swearing 😳

I'm a grown man and should know better


 
Posted : 31/05/2013 3:55 pm
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