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I am also impressed and happy that you have decided to fix not replace. I feel some affinity 🙂
Sorted out the timing belt with the handy tool, which was easier than I expected as access to the crank sprocket can be had from the wheelarch.
Tried starting, and no luck unfortunately. It turns over fine, but it's not firing. Not sure how much turning over it would need to get the fuel through through the lines? I've tried it for about 5-10s each time, maybe 10 times. Don't want to cook the battery so have left it for now.
The warning messages include 'Emissions Workshop!', 'Stop - Oil Pressure' and 'Engine Fault'. It is letting me try starting, but either the fuel's not made it through yet or is not being allowed through. I expect I need a VAGCOM cable before I can go much further with it.
Immobiliser stopping fuel getting past the stop solenoid ?
Do you have a fuel bleeding sequence / procedure? It's worth checking all the fuel connections , filter unions and seals
High five for giving this a bash.
Forgive me if you've already posted this information but i'm viewing on my mobile, can you list the original car model & year & engine type/code and list the engine type/code for the replacement engine and whether or not you've also swapped the ECU. I'll give my mate a call t'morn (he's a genius with VW diesel engines amongst his rally/race car prep business) and quiz him regarding possible issues. I'll post up on here whatever he advises.
Thanks pal! It's a 2008 Passat 1.9TDi. Was a BXE, now has a BKC. I've not swapped the ECU, as per some advice on another forum I read. New engine came with pretty much everything (alternator, pumps etc), I just swapped the turbo over and all the tubes and wiring looms.
I'm going to prime the tandem fuel pump as it seems likely that might be airlocked.
Be mindful of excessive engine cranking as the Diesel pump relies on lubrication from the fuel passing through, I'll get back to you via this thread tomorrow.
Just sucked some fuel through the pump, so I think it's not an airlock. Bit more reading around suggests any number of sensor problems might prevent it from firing. Will get the mobile diagnostics folk out to scan the error codes.
somafunk - Member
Be mindful of excessive engine cranking as the Diesel pump relies on lubrication from the fuel passing through, I'll get back to you via this thread tomorrow.
Not wanting to criticise, SF, but the PD engines are lubricated via engine oil, not diesel.
Very happy to be corrected on my lack of knowledge 😀 regarding the PD pumps, I now know something i didn't have full knowledge of beforehand - It would take a special breed of person to automatically jump on the defensive and i feel STW have enough of "those" without adding my name into the mix.
Cheers Cody.
The quick fix/check is to give it a sniff off 'easy start'*. And I mean a sniff - don't dump the entire can into the air intake. It should at least pop and fart. This will confirm your timing/mechanical side is good to go (more or less).
Marko
*Not an approved method, but it cuts down the diagnostic time.
If you've changed the engine ecu, it definitely isn't going to start!
You'll need to re-pair the immo, and also update the VIN data
Not changed the ECU, so I think the immobiliser side of things should be ok.
Hi
Have you got a hot glow plug ?
If you can check the current to ensure they are hot, or pop one out and switch on the ignition. With these air temps it should be red hot in seconds.
As its a CR can you crack a fuel rail banjo or union to see if there is diesel going round the system?
If Yes and Yes then its either ECU not telling the injectors to open, possible imobiliser /anti theft issue, or your timing is out and the fuel is going in a millisecond too late. ( white exhaust fumes and smelly derv smell )
Not sure about glow plugs, but I'd heard that they're only used in really cold weather - are they actually needed for starting normally?
It's not Common Rail, but PD. Not sure if that affects a more detailed look at the fuel system.
I think (hope!) the timing is spot on now, and I suspect a computer fault is the problem. There's nothing coming out the exhaust when trying to start.
Glow plug irrelevant.
Like I said give it a 'sniff' before wasting time/money on a suspect ECU problem.
My big concern is that there is a wiring issue with the change from the BXE engine to the BKC engine. I can get you the pin outs from both ECU's when I'm at work if that will help - (PM if you need these).
Marko
OK, I'll give the spray a try, thanks. From what I'd read, the two engines shouldn't need any wiring or computer changes, but that assumes all the electrical stuff on the new one is working correctly.
Glow plugs are always used. A DI engine will start without them - eventually - but it doesn't mean they aren't important.The reason you don't have to wait for them any more is because they come on when you unlock the doors.
IT BLOODY WORKS!
Rather embarrassingly, there was a loose connection on the main engine loom.
I'm off driving now. Huge thanks to everyone who's contributed on this thread, I probably wouldn't have taken this on without your help.
Cheers!
Woo woo! That's great. Well done.
Bit misleading. My PD engine (BKC) starts fine with the glow plugs disconnected - a bit 'cloudy' for sure, but no starting issues.
Also I can't see how unlocking the doors would command the glow plugs on. Surely you'd just end up with a flat battery especially if you were a seriel door unlocker/locker? I've got a common rail VAG product to look at tomorrow so I'll check your theory/information.
Most non-starts/poor running issues I've seen on PD engines have all been due to the loom in the head. This usually throws up a fault code. The oil eventually seeps into the wiring and corrupts the 'go' signal.
If you are using the loom from the new engine (and after you've tried a sniff) I'd swap the loom in the head over. Easy enough to do and it will rule it out as an issue.
Also have a good look at the level/temp sensor in the sump. They are in a vulnerable position and it might have been damaged in the breakers? Mine went short circuit recently, blew a fuse and would not start.
Hth
Marko
Well done that man, see modern cars aren't that bad!!
Well by jesus the boys done good. I tip my hat to you good sir.
Winner. Have that beer now.
Edit : I should've read the recent posts before i typed out my 10 line reply.....but it's all good news so i see, well done Mowgli...treat yo'self to a well earned beer and the self satisfaction of fixing something 😀
Result! V happy for you.
Good work fella
Also I can't see how unlocking the doors would command the glow plugs on. Surely you'd just end up with a flat battery especially if you were a seriel door unlocker/locker? I've got a common rail VAG product to look at tomorrow so I'll check your theory/information.
Unlocking (or opening) a door does loads of stuff on a modern car. Fuel pumps fire up, computers wake up, the sat nav starts acquiring satellites, the headlights run a self test...
I'd bet that most people who go to a car and unlock it after it's been sat for a while have some intention of driving it. Because it's a car. 30 seconds of glow plugs won't drain the battery.
You can tell in cold weather because you can hear relays clicking as high power consumers connect to the battery, and partly because if you spend ages fannying around getting stuff out of the car and then go to start it, you have to wait for a glow plug cycle before the computer will turn the engine over.
Feel good factors are seldom as good as when an engine transplant works. Woo hoo!
Thanks all. Can confirm it drives. Very similar to how it was before, perhaps slightly less grunt (if possible from a 105hp!) but goes reasonably well. Bit smokey when cold, and the Emission Workshop! warning is still there, but I suspect this needs to be cleared manually even if the fault has gone away. Tried disconnecting the battery for 15 mins but it remains. However it's the only fault left so I'm not too bothered for now.
Thanks again everyone.
Well done sir! Respect!
Awesome!
Just goes to show that even in these days of computers and shit for cars never forget the basics.
Fuel air and current (IE check your wiring in a diesels case-fir a petrol it would be spark)
Well done sir! Respect!
This 🙂
You have just completed one of the most complex jobs you will probably ever do on a car, you Sir are now in a very exclusive club.
Well done that man. Go and have that beer.
Regardless of how many engines I've done (In dealership with all tools/tech data) you can't beat that Yessss! feeling when it lives for the first time 😀 Props to ya OP 🙂
Unlocking (or opening) a door does loads of stuff on a modern ca
Sure does, but on VAG group product it DOES NOT fire up the glow plugs*. KOEO required.
*Checked on a 05 plate Touran with BKC PD engine and 2013 Caddy with CAYD CR engine.