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Had a horrible noise yesterday that turned out to be rust from the disc protector flaking off and sitting between the protector and disc. Truly horrible noise.
But while the wheels were off i found that there is a bit of rub on both sides (rear). Is this normal for car wheels, i could still turn the hubs by hand and when the wheel was on they turned but with a what seemed like resistance.
Is it normal to have a little rub? Thinking back i am pretty sure that i've always found car wheel to rub a bit but i'm not sure.
Silly question but you did take the handbrake off? I know that I spent 20 minutes one day trying to shift a drum when I still had the handbrake on... ๐ณ
Yeah that was the initial problem. but still rubs even when off.
It's normal for disc brakes to drag a little bit. If you can still turn the hub by hand it can't be too bad.
Are all the pads about the same thickness ? Having one thinner than the others is a good sign that there's something wrong.
Shouldn't rub at all - I'd get Kwik Fit to do a free brake check on them.
A week after I got my car (that I really like) I heard a horrible noise from the rear wheel. Expected to need recovering but it suddenly went away - must have been a stone jumping up into the brake housing. Happens with my bike sometimes too.
I thought that it was normal for there to be a bit of resistance to rotation on a car wheel - the pads don't seem to clear the discs like they do on mountain bike discs set-ups.
To see if you have a real binding problem, take the car for a decent length drive. Once you've got a fair distance (5 miles + on fast roads) stop & feel all four wheels. If one feels hot/warm then the chances are the brake on that that wheel is binding.
A mate of mine has a rear brake binding recently & his alloy wheel on the binding brake assembly was pretty toasty after a drive.....
Anyone who uses a garage or kwik fit to service brakes is soft headed. Disc brakes are one of the easiest things to service at home. Things only become complicated or rather easily done wrong is when you're messing with the actual hydraulics e.g. master/slave cylinder replacement and bleeding.
Uneven wear or rubbing is usually caused by a seized or stiff floating caliper. Remove the caliper, free off floating bushes, reassemble with copper slip. Half an hours work on caliper number two.
Get a manual for the grittier detail, but most cars are similar.
Or drive past a wall and see if you can hear any rubbing. Bit crude but it works.
No WAY I'd service my own brakes. They are massive so hard to access, have sensors that run the tyre pressure monitor system and loads of other functions and the result of an error is death for me and my family rather than a bit of a scrape (on a bike).
Surf, I respect your opinion (it's a stance lots of folk have), but size is irrelevant, all you need to do to access is remove a wheel, and sensors etc are just a proofed plug.
Death is highly unlikely. You want to see what the professionals get up to.........
Shouldn't rub at all - I'd get Kwik Fit to do a free brake check on them
I went there once for one of there free brake checks, knowing full well that the rear drums just needed new shoes, but I was short of time and happened to be near a Kwik Fit. The bloke looked the car over, looked at me, chatted with his supervisor who then came over and told me I needed a new master cylinder, pipes, front discs and pads and rear drums and shoes. I raised an eyebrow, told him he clearly knew nothing about cars, gave him my business card and asked him to give it to his manager so I could discuss his performance. Surprisingly, I never heard back so I've never been back since.
Shouldn't rub at all - I'd get Kwik Fit to do a free brake check on them.
Nonsense, there's always a hint of rub on discs and kwik fit are probably the worst people in teh world to go to so I can only assume this was a cracking trolling I've bitten on ๐ If you trust kwik-fit over your own hand you're either mechanically idiotic or vastly misguided.
With a wheel on you should get at least a couple of turns from a quick spin, as a guide. If it binds up in <2 turns you have problems with either sticking sliders or pistons (or an utterly goosed bearing).