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At 46 I'm probably too old to start climbing, certainly the icy stuff anyway. Been doing a bit with the guys from our team, I'll see where it goes.
At 46 I’m probably too old to start climbing, certainly the icy stuff anyway.
I wouldn't be too worried. There are plenty of grade II gullies full of snow that are pretty safe and easy but fabulously scenic. Even I wouldn't be worried about them and I am pretty nervous, as above.
EDIT as long as conditions are good and you take the appropriate precautions for being up in the mountains obvs!
There are plenty of grade II gullies full of snow that are pretty safe and easy
Hmmmm
And yet the same gullies can be a lot trickier, and not at all safe the next day. Especially taking into account the general lack of belays.
Yes I edited my post - a lot depends on conditions.
Quite possibly the least impressive winter crag I've ever been to but a fun, low stress day to start the season on Fionn Bheinn (Achnasheen)
At 46 I’m probably too old to start climbing, certainly the icy stuff anyway
I wouldn't rule it out, it's a pretty fine line between scrambling in winter and climbing and things like general fitness and hill skills are far more important than actual climbing skills.
Keeping this going.
Anyone fancy a trip next weekend (17/18th), conditions dependant obvs.
Mibbe next winter Spin, got a winter skills course with the team in Feb in Glencoe, hoping to mibbe stay up for a few days and get some winter scrambling in too.
Cracking photos Spin and Elliptic. Just looking at them has me shivering and stamping my feet
Brilliant pics on this thread. Way braver than I could ever hope to be. Stunning pics though.
So, mid February and it hasn't been a classic has it?
Aha, Holy thread resurection. And alas Spin's comment is quite apposite. Half a mo....
So my new boots finally arrived, in the middle of a thaw. A last minute midweek rummage on the internet last week took me to some hideous hole in the ground in the Peak District for....
https://flic.kr/p/2oeDMEY
Dry Tooling... it wasn't anything like as painful as it sounds, and actually I bloody loved it. Did 4 routes including a big traverse,
https://flic.kr/p/2oeGn4w
which was bloody excellent.
Not only was it my first DT, and my first winter route for nearly ten years, it was probably only my 10th day roped climbing in the last 6 years. All the old emotions and concerns, and elations cane flooding back.
It started off as just an excuse to try the new boots, but I'll be going g back as soon as I've found some monos.
And alas Spin’s comment is quite apposite. Half a mo….
Conditions have been way better so far this year. Which obviously doesn't mean everyone has had a good season!
Yeah, I stand corrected. I was just thinking of the Lakes TBH.
I'll put some pics up when I've got a minute.
Do you have any pics of grade threes 😉
You know, something aspirational rather than... dunno the word for it.
Insane 🙂
This winter, from the top down:
Basteir Chimney on Am Basteir, a good start to the season.
Erebus on Suilven, not the best shot but a pretty special place to climb.
Team selfie on summit of Suilven. About 13hrs into the day and another 5 still to go.
P2 of Seller's Tower on Sgurr nan Clach Geala.
P3 of the same.
Heading up Liathach.
P2 of Blue Rinse on Stob Coire an Laoigh.
Topping out on the same.
Anyone out this weekend or next week?
Excellent.
Wow, good stuff
Just had a scroll back through this thread and it uncovered some memories! Fingers Ridge was on my tick-list from the first moment I walked into the Northern Corries and was one of my first grade IV's. I'd decided to be more efficient that year and had practiced coiling a rope quickly in my living room at home and was SO GLAD to ahve done so when we topped out of that route into a hoolie.
I'd also completely forgotten that I'd done Poachers Falls on Liathach as well!
Fingers Ridge was on my tick-list from the first moment I walked into the Northern Corries and was one of my first grade IV’s.
That was the 3rd time I've done it, over about 25 years. It's just a really good, fun route.
When we got to that top crux wall it was obvious the team from the day before had done the first few moves then backed off. Hidden in the rime about 20cm above their high point was a perfect horizontal axe placement which made it fairly straightforward!
Nope, I do not need another hobby to fund, nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope nope...
Tbh, I dont have the network of winter climbers to be able to grab the 'good condition ' days anyway.
Back in the day I was a climber. Summer tad was my thing. I had the head thing dialed. Most grades I lead before I seconded them. Summer climbing isn’t that bad safety wise.
I enjoyed the grade 11 ridges and gullies. My only real winter route was NE Buttress on Ben Nevis, climbed as part of a memorable 5 days in the CIC hut. I won’t do the full story. But I just didn’t have the head for winter climbing. I think objectively I could see 2 problems. Firstly the medium you’re working with is less reliable. Secondly that’s backed up by less less runners
I think objectively I could see 2 problems. Firstly the medium you’re working with is less reliable. Secondly that’s backed up by less less runners
That's definitely the case on ice, much less so for snowed up rock.
Great thread. I still dabble but used to do more back in the 90s.
I remember driving up from Newcastle to Fort William, bivying in a scrubby wood in Glen Nevis overnight then doing the epic walk in to the Ben and Climbing Green Gully. Our first proper winter route and with a 45m single rope. It was basically run-out-full-rope / belay / repeat for the full route. And I took a big block of ice to the face from a party above as well so looked like I'd been into a car crash when we walked into MacDonalds in Fort William that evening (and ordered 2 Big Mac meals each). Then drove back to Newcastle.
Happy days.
Ampthill, I think grade eleven in winter is a decent enough standard!
I think he meant grade II (grade 2)??
Got the season started last Friday in amazing weather on Fingers Ridge.
Was thinking that looked stiff for a grade 1/2, then realised I was getting my Fingers and Fiachals mixed up 🙂
Postie stuck a note through the door saying he'll try again to deliver my new Nomics tomorrow. Still can't decide if it's a stupid waste of money...
New Sportiva Cubes last year, so need to get out and use them..
If anyone fancies a bit of dry tooling at Masson or Hodge, or some proper stuff lakes or Wales if we get any then let me know
I meant II not 11
So yes grade 2 🤦♀️
Postie stuck a note through the door saying he’ll try again to deliver my new Nomics tomorrow.
I liked my old ones a lot, especially as I got them for free* but the pommel design on the new ones put me off. I have Cassin X-dream Alpine now which are great apart from the stupid name.
* a mate had 2 with wobbly heads, I fixed both and kept one, the other another mate found on The Ben.
Less good but still definitely winter (just) in the the Northern Corries.
Spin
Force of habit has me buying adze and semi hammer for the Nomics.... Is that a waste of time?
I haven't had an adze for years but i can see why you might want one. I like a hammer although with modern curved tools they're a pain to use. Ive got two hammers on current axes
Ok, useful.
On the one hand I don't want to waste fifty quid. On the other hand I imagine that faced with a need to cut a wee ledge to rest my calves half way up a pitch £500 would seem like a bargain.
Ditto placing warthogs etc.
The obvious answer is probably to not buy a totally unsuited tech ice tool like a Nomic for bimbly climbing..,.. ho hum
Hmmm
The obvious answer is probably to not buy a totally unsuited tech ice tool like a Nomic for bimbly climbing..,.. ho hum
Have you already bought the Nomics? I had Petzl Quarks for years, loved them and never felt like it was the tools that were holding me back on harder stuff. They come with a proper adze and hammer. I only got rid of mine because they were an older version and you couldn't get picks anymore.
Nomics and similar tools are lovely to climb with and I'm sure you'll enjoy them but they really only come into their own at VI and above I think. Below that grade the lack of hammer/adze, extreme curve and poor plunging performance feels like too much of a compromise.
Crampons are the same, the more technical designs are poor on less technical ground. I've got G12s and G20+ and the former are way nicer to use up to IV and far more secure on the descent.
First 3 are Lapland Buttress on Sgurr na Lapaich. The others are Temptress on Ben Wyvis.
Not a lot of snow about in the NW but more in the gorms.
Have you already bought the Nomics? I had Petzl Quarks for years, loved them and never felt like it was the tools that were holding me back on harder stuff.
Yes, bought them. But still unused, so could send them back...
They totally aren't holding me back in winter. My lack of balls/ talent holds me back. But they were useless dry tooling and I want to do more DT to get more confidence. So figured I should buy them.
Nomics and similar tools are lovely to climb with and I’m sure you’ll enjoy them but they really only come into their own at VI and above I think. Below that grade the lack of hammer/adze, extreme curve and poor plunging performance feels like too much of a compromise.
Mmm yep. I'll give them a try and see what they're like. I imagine they're horrible on easy stuff
I fully get that I'm being a total gear freak here. But if I don't it'll just get wasted on bathrooms pension or something...
Please do keep posting.
I have some pics from eldest_oab at the weekend out in Coire an t-Sneachda on Saturday, just checking I can share them.
I’m just going to keep posting, maybe it will encourage others to get out! 😀
Please do, I love seeing this stuff!
I have some pics from eldest_oab at the weekend out in Coire an t-Sneachda on Saturday, just checking I can share them.
Look forward to seeing them.
I imagine they’re horrible on easy stuff
It depends what you mean by easy stuff. Easier mixed terrain they'll be fine. Easier snowy/ice/mountaineering they're less good.