I need a longer nutted rear axle for a shimano coaster hub. It needs to be threaded all rhe way i think
What the hell am i looking for?
Its not m10 and it fits a track nut.
Ideally 185mm long but not that fussy if it's 175.
I'm not convinced generic axles are all the same threading etc and it HAS to be correct for the internals to work.
Help!
Have you tried sjs cycles, they're good for this sort of thing.
If it's not m10 then it's probably 3/8"
Something like this?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DFHQ7J5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Had a look earlier i thought i'd found one for 5pound donething.
Was actually 50somethjng and titanium.
Whuch would double the price of this monster.
Shimano won't be Imperial
10 X 1mm.
Don't ultimatepursuits do Shimano spares no more?
Shimano rear should be M10x1 (finer pitch than a standard bolt).
Have you got a normal Shimano rear hub (can be qr)? That will 100% be 10x1, so if your track nut screws on there then your coaster is the same.
Halfords (of all places) often have them.
Goid point mick i did check that earlier and the nut fits a shimano qr axle.
Thanks all.
Ended up buying a meter of fine thread rod to make the exacting standards i have...
If you hear a scream its gone badly...
Do you know what grade steel it is? First one Google found me was 4.8 mild steel which will probably bend rather quickly.....
Axles I've bought (to rebuild qr Shimano hubs into singlespeed) have been stamped cro-mo and probably 10.9 or better.
A large work colleague bent a cheap hub axle plopping off a kerb. First warning of it bending will hopefully 🙂 be a slack chain and binding hub bearings.
Yeah its 8.8
Bit low perhaps but i decided to risk it as its going to go from the flat to the shop and back and it cost 11pounds.
At the very least i'll learn something about tensile strength... And rolled over cut threads...
And death...
And coasterbrakes down glentress probably..
What could possibly go wrong.....
8.8 is slightly betterer i guess 🙂
Its 4 betterer.
Wait until i start butchering the frame mick...
Things will get really fruity then.
I think buying this would have been simpler http://www.velosolo.co.uk/axle.html
Frame butchering pictures required!
I quite like coaster brakes - clipless maybe better as feet bounced off flats =no brakes 🙂
I've got a 3spd Sachs coaster hub lurking in the attic for a project sometime.....
mick the frame and hub were both used as a polo bike experiment years ag0
they're now gong back together as a rat shopper for cutting about peebles so I want to but a rack on front and was thinking mounting it to the frame butcher style.
so was thinking some kind of boss brazed to the tubes a look on ceeway suggests m6 ar ethe bigger bottle style bosses but i did wonder about downtube shifter bosses instead...
the frame is an old emmelle with tange tubing and very retro geometry 😀
I like coaster brakes too, but in the UK you will still need a front brake. The Dahon Mu Uno and all Durch Roadsters look so much cleaner without it. But come accident time, I'm afraid the first thing the Polica will check as they drag your bike from under the lorry is whether it has two functioning brakes.
two functioning brakes.
Well barring damage caused by said truck it would, wouldn't it, assuming you had a front brake. It's nothing to do with a coaster rear, it's to do with not fitting [any] brakes to your bike
whoa hold up,
I will have a front brake!
Don't buy bosses off Ceeway - just braze in some regular nuts. If you can spin them in a lathe somewhere then turn off half the hex to a circle, drill holes in the head tube to suit. It holds them in place whilst brazing and gives a really strong joint (M6 to something like 9mm diameter, M8 to maybe 11-12mm diameter depending what drills you have to suit etc).
Hang on, scratch that - doesn't sound ratty enough. Just MIG on a couple of M20 nuts! And a spring loaded stick for the front brake.