[Closed] X0 clutch mech, am I being stupid?

You press the button with the padlock symbol on it and push it foreword to turn the clutch off so you can get the wheel off etc (the mech will be locked foreword) and then you push the rear derailleur further up towards the chain stay and it releases the lock to allow the mech to spring back to its riding position.

I got an x9 for Xmas and wondered the same! You need to give the cage a hard push out and it'll snap free, I was hesitant to but it seems like they are locked in position when new.

Haha! Got my XX1 mech out of the box last night and wondered exactly the same!

excitable1

The button you speak off is for the 'cage lock' to ease removal/installation of the wheel, the clutch mechanism is operated with a different button, thanks anyway.

Stevelol

I'll give this a try but didn't wan't to force it free, cheers!

*Edit*

I've given the cage a good yank and it has moved but still seems really tight and the clutch 'button' didn't pop out which is what I was expecting, surely it can't be this hard!

as far as im aware the 'clutch' is always engaged riding, you cant turn that on or off, its just always on

the cage lock is for taking wheel out, cage lock is a great idea, as it makes it very easy to clean front chainring (as the chain is super slack and can be dismounted up front)

I just push the jockey wheels back toward the middle of the bike and it releases.

The clutch is always on (is on my X01). I assumed you were referring to the cage lock and releasing that.

Right, that would make sense with the clutch, I just assumed like shimano you could turn it off/on when required.

The cage lock is much simpler to figure out, ha!

Thanks

Slightly off topic, but do I dare remove my E13 LG1 and run a narrow wide ring?!

If you find the clutch actually too tight, which it could be in most suspension designs - you'll feel it as a knock in the first 10% of travel.

You can slacken it off, but removing the plastic cap, what you thought was a button, it's about the size of a smartie, pop it off with a stanley blade, and turn the T20 bolt anti-clockwise to slacken it.

To really ease it up, you can take it apart and grease the bush up, but be very very careful as it's spring loaded, and you'll never get it back together if you take it fully apart.

I've written a how-to before on STW, I'll post it below....

On the clutch mech, there's a little black plastic button, covering the roller bearing (inside the Type2 Roller Bearing writing). You can prize this off with a stanley knife.

This reveals a T55 socket, undo this.

this no reveals a 4mm allen socket, which houses the bearing.

Remove the top pulley, by unscrewing the 3mm pivot bolt, this reveals another 3mm allen bolt.

Put a 3mm allen key against this, and put a 4mm allen key into the 4mm socket, and undo the 4mm socket - hold onto the 3mm key as underneath is the spring which can fly out if you don't butt up against it properly.

When you've undone the 4mm socket as much as you can, rock the 4mm key against it to pull out the whole 4mm socket.

Push a load of pivot grease inside the now exposed roller bearing, pop everything back together. And BOOM!

Smooth as ****. Suspension will actually work better, as it's not binding.

Essentially the bearing has been put together with no grease, so the bearing binds. Absolutely shocking.

excitable1:

"foreword" X 2!

Genius! 🙂

Cheers Rickon, that's a massive help and great advice.

Will see how it feels on the first ride and if need be I'll try slackening it off a smidge!