I've got a set of Ritchey Kyote bars and I've fitted some bar ends towards the centre so that it makes a kind of poor man's Jones Bar.
Up until now I've used a set of regular foam grips on the main outer part and then wrapped the bar ends with bar tape. I decided I wanted to try doing a full wrap this time but I wasn't super happy with the results. Lots of flappy bits around the controls. It could also be because I used a set of Lizard Skins tape that had big stickers everywhere saying 'Do not stretch tape during installation!' which made me a bit gun shy to pull it too tight around the controls.
Is it just a question of using tape that can be stretched to negotiate the awkward bits or is there a special technique to be used for wrapping these type of bars. I'm asking because I like the Lizard skins but the flappy bits are getting on my nerves.
Not answering your question really but I use these bars. did you manage to get the bar ends round first bend on the bars? None of the ones I have would do so. I use the foam sleeves you get for drop bars on mine to give a longer grip that goes round the bends on the bar
I've done it a few times and the amount of persuasion varies but I managed it each time. With one set I remember taking a flat headed screwdriver and gently easing the clamp apart as I pushed to round the bend.
The only brand I actually remember (the others were just cheap ones I just got from a department store) were Brand-X:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/p/brand-x-classic-bar-ends
It could be one of those cases where expensive ones might have tighter tolerances in which case it could be cheaper really is better in this case.
Ta<br />These are the foams I used
Yeah, foam is probably be the best option. The only reason I tried a full wrap this time was because I didn't have anymore foam grips but I did have a set of bar tape I wanted used.
You can secure one length of tape by finishing the wrap of another over it, that can help with 2 or 3-way bar wraps. Once you figure out the best wrapping approach inc a self-tightening direction where you grip the most, put some double-sided tape on the bars before wrapping so it doesn't loosen over time. It really helps on my loop and old H-bars.
With one set I remember taking a flat headed screwdriver and gently easing the clamp apart as I pushed to round the bend.
Pop a penny in the slot and put the bolt in the other way so it threads in and pushes against the penny to open the clamp up? Easier / less scratch risk anyway.
I use SQ Lab inner bar ends on Ritchey Coyote bars. The have removable plastic insert that makes it easy to get them around the bend. Then ESI foam grips.
I'd post a photo but can never remember how to.
I use these bars with bar ends on the front apex on my bikepacking bike. I just wrap the bar ends and a few cm either way on the main bar, then use grips with palm rests on the end. Works well and seems to stop the dreaded tingle finger so far.
Pop a penny in the slot and put the bolt in the other way so it threads in and pushes against the penny to open the clamp up? Easier / less scratch risk anyway.
My head just exploded.
Slight hijack,
On drop 'bars...for best comfort, grippyness, etc., is Lizard Skins DSP still the standard? Think I used 2.5mm last time. Wrapped over some silicone pads iirc.
Here's how I* taped my surly moloko bars:<br /><br />
* by which I mean my friend, the pro bike mechanic
I'd have to admit to getting that tip from Jeff Jones, his instructions for how to fit the steerer into a truss fork.. found it useful for many things like getting drop bars through old style stems, or brake levers onto curly alt bars.
its a good tip and one I will use I am sure