Hi all,
following on from a forum [url= http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/missing-a-pilot-bolt-must-i-buy-the-whole-replacement-kit-or-is-it-standard-size ]post[/url] here last week, i went to my local hardware store and got a similar bolt of the same diameter. However it is longer than the original.
Can i use it as it is? Should I cut it down? Also a friend mentioned i should check if the bolt it stainless steel or normal steel.
any ideas?
I use a mix of bolts. Ideally you want a good quality bolt but pretty much any will be fine.
I'd be tempted to cut it and file it as sod's law says it'll stab you in a crash no matter how unlikely.
Try it and see how it fits, if it's ok the extra length is probably best left.
If you do make sure you take photos
If I get stabbed make sure I take photos?
I think it will be the head of the bolt that sticks out. At work now so can't test (can of course be on this forum).
If that is the case, will I die quicker?
No problem cutting bolts down, I do it all the time. It just means you lose the plating on the end, so in some situations, it may rust more than the original bolt.
Looking at the picture of your bike and the kit, I take it two bolts go in to each pivot from opposite sides?
If so, you will have to cut it down so as not to bottom out on the opposite bolt.
Bolts come in different grades though.
If you look on the head of one of your existing bolts, there should be a number.
8.8 is standard high tensile. If it's not marked, you can generally assume it is this grade.
If it's marked 10.9 or 12.9, then you really ought to replace it with a similarly marked bolt, as these are greater tensile strength.
We have a winner..!
MidlandTrailquestsGraham - Member
No problem cutting bolts down, I do it all the time. It just means you lose the plating on the end, so in some situations, it may rust more than the original bolt.
Looking at the picture of your bike and the kit, I take it two bolts go in to each pivot from opposite sides?
If so, you will have to cut it down so as not to bottom out on the opposite bolt.Bolts come in different grades though.
If you look on the head of one of your existing bolts, there should be a number.
8.8 is standard high tensile. If it's not marked, you can generally assume it is this grade.
If it's marked 10.9 or 12.9, then you really ought to replace it with a similarly marked bolt, as these are greater tensile strength.
Fantastic answer in that A) it was what I wanted to hear and B) you sound very certain..!
Many thanks!
Bolts come in different grades though.
If you look on the head of one of your existing bolts, there should be a number.
8.8 is standard high tensile. If it's not marked, you can generally assume it is this grade.
If it's marked 10.9 or 12.9, then you really ought to replace it with a similarly marked bolt, as these are greater tensile strength.
Unmarked bolts are normally grade 5 aren't they? I.e. Cheese grade.....
Just make sure the shank doesn't bottom out on the female threads too, it's likely to be longer on a longer bolt (but check).
Cutting down long bolts can sometimes give you a stronger joint as the longer shank can be better. As said above the issue is corrosion of the cut surface.
I replaced my bolts with 'non-standard' bolts, however they were of the same size and grade from a local lengineering supplies place. Google/Yell fasteners suppliers in your town.
Unmarked bolts are normally grade 5 aren't they?
Maybe for normal hex headed bolts, but these are countersunk Allen bolts.
Allen bolts below 8.8 grade are rare, and small countersunk bolts don't always have markings on them, so unmarked countersunk M5 Allen bolts are [i]probably[/i] 8.8
Ah, fair enough. I don't trust anything without markings! Pivot harware on my bike is all 12.9....