Looking at 42 and 40 tooth cogs and wondering why people are buying the T-Rex 40 over the One-up, etc 42. Is it more about availability and price or is there any other advantage for 40t?
Needing all the advantage I can get, I'm planning on going 42t but interested in any reasons why not.
40t is short cage compatible.
You don't have to run an extra large b tension screw.
Basically your not pushing your mechs capacity too maximum.
[url= http://singletrackworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/ethirteen-components-launch-extended-range-cog/ ]Read it in the news[/url]
Mostly people are buying Hope because it's had such a big launch and you can buy them in the shops, and they have a Hope logo on, I think.
42t on my heavier fs and 40t on my lighter ht. Have to admit my wolf tooth 42t looks a better quality piece of machining compared to the hope.
Maybe the 40tooths for folk who much have the latest fashion item but are not unfit enough to need at 42 ?
40t is enduro, 42t is only for free ride/all mountain.
Read it in the news
That's interesting, linking cog size directly with cassette range. Just need a matrix of gnarr factor Vs radness now.
Mostly people are buying Hope because it's had such a big launch and you can buy them in the shops, and they have a Hope logo on, I think.
😆
Haven't some people reported problems with the shifting from 36t to 42t?
It's interesting. Hope and One Up Components state that you can convert an 11-36 with the 40t cog but e13 specify you have to use an 11-34 cassette to avoid shifting problems with the 40t. Who has tried 11-36 with a hope 40t-rex? Does it shift without problems? I'm thinking of running a 40t-rex with a SRAM 1080 cassette and a Zee short cage RD for an alpine plaything.
I just did a 11-36 with a Hope 40t. Ditched the 11t. Makes more sense to me to lose the top end rather than a random useful cog in the middle.
Makes sense Tim.
I'm thinking of doing the same.
Or just buy a smaller chainring?
I'd not want a 42t, 40 or even 38 might just be the extra I'd want. Judt for the really draggy horrible climbs.
Makes sense Tim.
It doesn't! Just stick a smaller chainring on. 11-36 is a wider gear spread than 13-40.
I just did a 11-36 with a Hope 40t. Ditched the 11t. Makes more sense to me to lose the top end rather than a random useful cog in the middle.
I think that is missing the point. The range of 13-40 and 11-36 are about the same, you should have just got a smaller chainring instead.
I'm running a Hope 40T cog on an XT 11-36 cassette with a Zee mech and having no problems at all. I ditched the 17T cog, but also removed the 15T and replaced it with a 16 to smooth out the ratios.
This is the problem with the SRAM 1080 cassette (which I already have). You have to remove the 15t (I think) which leaves you with a large jump. The bonus is you end up with a super light cassette compared to using an XT or a 1070.
Removing the 11t makes no sense to me either. Its the range I want to get as close as I can to my XX1 setup on my other bike.
depends on the cassette you're running- if it tops out at a 34t, then going to 42t will be a huge jump. 40t will be smoother in this case.
Just set up 11-36 with a hope 40t, looks and shifts fine.
As for why no 42t I've heard a few things about it taking everything to the limits and the jump from 36 to 42 seems big.
It's a step between normal 10sp and xx1 for me.
I just did a 11-36 with a Hope 40t. Ditched the 11t. Makes more sense to me to lose the top end rather than a random useful cog in the middle.
Oh sweet jesus. You've just reduce the range of your cassette rather than increasing it
Makes sense Tim.
Sarcasm I hope?
I'm thinking of doing the same.
Then you're an idiot.
Just for the hard of comprehension:
-If you want easier gears; get a smaller chainring.
-If you want to extend your range of gears; slap a 40t or 42 cog on your cassette. If you want extra low gears; run a small chainring (30t); if you want extra high gears run a larger one (36t).
Don't do as suggested above and end up with more cost, harder gear changes, more weight and a smaller range of gears 🙄
The customer wanted a lower bottom gear and was already running a 30t ring. The Hope 40 Trex did exactly what was needed. Find me a 28t ring that fits a 104bcd and I'll recommend that.
I just did a 11-36 with a Hope 40t. Ditched the 11t. Makes more sense to me to lose the top end rather than a random useful cog in the middle.
The customer wanted a lower bottom gear and was already running a 30t ring. The Hope 40 Trex did exactly what was needed. Find me a 28t ring that fits a 104bcd and I'll recommend that.
Makes a bit more sense there, I'd probably still have retained the extra range though as a bonus.
That jump from 15 to 19 is quite noticeable though. Try it yourself and see what I mean.
highest gear 30-13...?!?
And lives in Linconshire.... 😯
I have, it's not that much of an issue, personally running out at the top end is.
Personally, I quite like having two chain rings and a front mech. Gives me a smashing usable range of gears and keeps my chain in check too 🙂
THink I'm going to swap the 15T ring for a 16 and see how that feels, shame they're not easier to find though, looks like I'll be ordering from germany
If it makes any odds the Hope 40t seems to work with any shimano cassette (Deore, SLX, XT certainly) and 32,34 or 36t in my quick 'try it for size' tests anyway.
anyone got a confirmed.. "works perfect with a zee mech" story?
The wider range zee 'FR' mech obviously.
I'm assuming you mean in the remove the 11t conversion Tim, do the lower end shimano stuff not have a fixed block in the lower ranges?
Oakesy2001uk - yes, it works perfectly for me with a Zee mech. I tried a long cage mech, too, and there was no difference in shifting.
while trying not to sound condescending (and no doubt failing) that sounds like someone who should be keeping a front shifter and granny ring.The customer wanted a lower bottom gear and was already running a 30t ring.
THink I'm going to swap the 15T ring for a 16 and see how that feels, shame they're not easier to find though, looks like I'll be ordering from germany
Just grind a tooth off a 17T ring - sorted. Worked for me in the same situation. Also means you can go to 39T at the top for better shifting.
The 15-19 shift is a bit crappy. It's too big a gap for the pickup ramps to help with the upshift. You can see why it's lazy when the bike is on the stand.
It's not as bad on the 36-40, I assume because the Hope ring has the pickups machined lower to help with the shift.
36-42 would be a big jump!
36-42 would be a big jump!
Works perfectly on mine, clicks in place with the same ease as all of the other gears.
XX1 has a 36-42 step......
Agree with Northwind about the jump from 15 to 19 though, I've got a 16 so I'll give that a go in place of the 15 to see if it makes any difference.
More seriously, I run 33 x 11/36 on one of my bikes and, to be honest, where I live it's mostly fine. Low enough to get up most things, slightly under-geared on road descents, but I can live with that, so I guess I could fit a 40 on the back and then increase the size of the chainring which would give me a similarly lowest gear, but a higher top.
Or I could stick with the 33 chain-ring and have a lower bottom gear, which I probably don't need. But in either case I end up with a biggish jump somewhere in the middle of the cassette.
I don't think I need a lower gear anyway - maybe if I lived somewhere hillier than the Peak - and I'm quite a normal, regular kind of rider and if I did live somewhere with really steep climbs, I'd probably just have a triple or double anyway.
I guess the bottom line for me is that:
1. I'm not sure why you'd need either a lower gear or a wider spread of gears, off road at least.
2. It's not like like having a single front ring is so astonishingly brilliant that I wouldn't just put up with a few hundred grammes of extra weight and simply fit a front mech, shifter and another chain ring or two.
I'm amused that people seem furious over the whole wheel size thing, but SRAM's extortionately priced 1x11 system and the aftermarket's attempts to replicate the range with a 10-speed cassette, also at highish prices - add in those wide/narrow rings too, seems to fly completely under the radar.
Why's SRAM's stuff in the area so expensive? A cynic might think that if it were affordable, it would mean selling fewer cranks, chainrings and shifters, so the price is artificially inflated to keep things nicely profitable.
I should get out more...
Why's SRAM's stuff in the area so expensive? A cynic might think that if it were affordable, it would mean selling fewer cranks, chainrings and shifters, so the price is artificially inflated to keep things nicely profitable.
Because it's their top of the range, all singing, all dancing groupset maybe?
They arn't going to be selling their (perceived) higher than XTR groupset for pocket change are they...
hmm, is dubiousand I'm quite a normal, regular kind of rider
this is an interesting point, I reckon most reasonably fit riders could get away with something around a 32x11-36* setup on their local trails, I bet if you lived in one of the few places hillier than the peak you'd adjust within a month or two.maybe if I lived somewhere hillier than the Peak
WRT 650b v 1x10/11, the very slight increase in wheel size seems to be all about flogging more frame forks and wheels for very little benefit (negligibly more rollability**) whereas 11-42 offers almost the full range of my current 2x9 bit with less weight and not having to do the quite slow front shifts. The cost of cassette plus a oneup will sting but is probably worth it. Haven't actually put my money where my mouth is yet, might wait for shimano 11spd but if it's xtr the cost will be similar to SRAM anyway.
*tho some would want more top end speed.
**the trails I ride don't need any CPR at the moment thanks
Slightly off topic, but where are people finding the 16t cog? I tempted to put a 40/42T cog on the back but dont like the idea of the 15-19t jump.
I've had a look on google and cant seem to find anything :/
Got mine here [url= http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-cs-6600-sprocket-16t-1z8-1600-d-prod30243/ ]Clicky[/url] but it looks like they're now out of stock.
Would this one work?
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deore-xt-cs-m760-sprocket-16t-(aq-group)-1za-1644-prod15834/
I know it's off a 9 speed cassette but if you used the 10 speed spacers would it not be close enough?
First run out with my hope T Rex and to be honest didn't need it, so unless you are doing some serious climbs it may not be worth it!
One thing to note running on my 1x10 setup with a 32 up front when I gave the 40t a go the front end wanted to pop up far to easily
SRAM are quite open that they're effectively milking the top end for as long as they can, cheaper options are likely to follow
cruzer - MemberSlightly off topic, but where are people finding the 16t cog?
Germany! Though haven't found one I like the p&p of yet.
I live somewhere hillier than the Peaks (Wales) and the first time out with a 1x10 with the 42 tooth rear had me wishing to go back to a granny ring on some of the climbs. Jury is still out.
As far as shifting goes not a problem but I did snap my B screw on the first ride. I have since added a link to the chain and is now OK.
I notice that the 9 speed 12-36 cassette I have has a 16 tooth ring but the whole lot are riveted together. Will see if it is possible to salvage the gear without destroying it completely.
First run out with my hope T Rex and to be honest didn't need it, so unless you are doing some serious climbs it may not be worth it!
That was in the back of my mind, as I got round my last 2 rides (Cannock and Penmachno) without dropping into the granny once and I'm hilariously unfit. That was with a 32T chainring and 11-36 cassette.
Neither of them have seriously hard climbs though and it's the combination of handling genuinely long/steep climbs and something to bail into at the end of a long ride that's drawing me to a big cog. Another driver is that losing the front shifter puts the Reverb lever in a much better position for my little hands.
Edging towards a Hope 40T on the basis of availability. If my ability falls short of expectation, I can always (a) push then (b) stick a 30T chainring on. I'm not proud 😀
All the rides I've done so far, I felt I didn't need it. Today I was out on my 2-ring bike and tbh I think my legs would have dropped off without the granny ring. It's not about "living somewhere hilly" sometimes, it's about riding up the same bloomin hill several times.
The ride this afternoon was at Llandegla taking in the mast loop. The one place the 40t was of some use was on the heather terrace due to the mud.
Boombip
If you can cope with your current setup I would say stay as you are. Keep your eyes open on the for sale section could be a T Rex on soon 😉
https://www.flickr.com/photos/95305703@N03/13650838204/
Other thing though is that these things don't have to be about low gears- you can use them to raise the highest gears. That's what I'm planning on one of mine, going up to a 36T front at the same time.
Just for info. The 16 tooth gear from a 9 speed SRAM 12-36 cassette fits and works fine in place of the 15 tooth ring on a Shimano 11-36 cassette being used with a 42 ring. It was simple to remove (if a bit fiddly) and I reckon I could just as easily rebuild the SRAM cassette if needs be.
I split a couple of old cassettes to get the ratios I wanted across a 11-40 on a 9 speed setup, and made an adaptor to use an old chairing for the 40t.
anyone tried fitting the Hope on a 9 speed?
picture of it here http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/10696427/