Why do my tubeless ...
 

[Closed] Why do my tubeless tyres slowly deflate? What can I do?

 benz
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So....

First ever pair of wheels and tyres converted to tubeless.

On One Smorsgabord tyres with Shimano MT68 tubeless ready rims.

Used an Uberbike conversion. Gorilla tape, their sealant and valves.

However, I have noted the tyres losing pressure over about a week.

There are no signs of sealant leaks around the tyre / rim interface....

Help!

ps - the gorilla tape may have gone slightly up the inside edge of the rim where it doubled over for a short section...


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 2:46 pm
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how much are they losing ?

I have a Smorgasboard that drops from 30-20psi over the course of a month for example.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 2:47 pm
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I don't lose quite that much pressure in a week but I do notice that tubeless does lose pressure quicker than tubes in my experience.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 2:49 pm
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They do lose pressure if left standing for a time, seems to vary on a model by model basis, even tyre by tyre. Seems to be more of a problem immediately after installation so probably the sealant not fully spread around the inside of the tower. It never gets to the point where it won't lose pressure but will take a month to lose X psi rather than a week.

I just check before each ride.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 2:56 pm
 a11y
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What whitestone says. I just check mine before every ride, takes seconds.

Some of mine barely lose any but even the worst only loses 5psi over a week (on a 26psi tyre). Then slows down dramatically as pressure gets lower.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 2:58 pm
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Some tyres that are not specifically tubeless ready need a bit more work. I've found Smorgasbords a bit variable but if you put plenty of fluid in, pump them up to 40+psi then do the panning for gold trick, the fluid is forced into any capilliary leaks in the sidewall. It's usually the porosity of the sidewall that causes slow depressurisation, assuming there are no leaks around the valve and the tape is on correctly.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 3:12 pm
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Try getting some fairy liquid (*others are available or a big still puddle) and then mixing it with spittle and checking out the valve (valve at bottom and vertical, high pressure in tyre, gob on it/mix with fl and keep scooping it up around the valve to check for bubbles)

I tend to fit an old style inner tube patch under the valve,(I've just had a right pita with 40mm rims) I also would spin the wheels and leave the valve tdc (top dead centre) so that hopefully some fluid would pool around the valve and seal it

and as said above some hold better than others


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 3:13 pm
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pop some soapy water on them, usually its a tiny bleed around the valve, nip it up and hey prest


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 3:14 pm
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pump them up to 40+psi then do the panning for gold trick

do not for the love of god do this!* check your rim first as they have handy max pressure settings, 40 psi plus on most modern tubeless rims, will have you covered in spaff, deaf and wondering why the surrounding area looks its been visited by a crack squad of bukake ninjas

*this is also the reason a lot of people say that tubeless systems are crap etc.... the lack of blokes reading instructions is amazing ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 3:17 pm
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My Maxxis tyres do this when inflated using CO2 inflator - it's good for setting them up, but then deflation and trackpump-action solves the problem. The bike hasn't been used for the last 10 days (but I did some trail running, I swear!) and the pressure hasn't changed - I checked it last night.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 4:43 pm
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They lose pressureexactly the same as inflated inner tubes lose pressure over time. Those air molecules are tiny uou know and if the tubless solution is just stuck sat at the bottom of the tyre its not going to stop anything at the top. If you could keep them perpetually spinning it'd lose a lot less pressure


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 4:50 pm
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a crack squad of bukake ninjas

That's just made my day! Cheers tazzy ๐Ÿ˜†

I once walked past a road sign that had a small sticker on it that simply read 'Bukake ruined my carpet'.

Dunno why or who put it there but they deserve a pint.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 5:06 pm
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40 psi plus on most modern tubeless rims, will have you covered in spaff, deaf and wondering why the surrounding area looks its been visited by a crack squad of bukake ninjas

Most?
Drivel.
How many have you set up in the last month? ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 5:09 pm
 DezB
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AS RD (Sorry, rd) says, most just do lose pressure over time. Only tyres I've had that didn't were Hutchinson USTs. You could try adding another half a cup of sealant, this usually helps if the pressure loss is higher than expected.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 5:13 pm
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Most?
Drivel.

OK some, the more common ones

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[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

velocity give a max of 45psi to tubeless

WTB rim user guide again gave 40-45 as the absolute upper pressure from memory

so up yours with half a bottle of stans and homemade fire extinguisher air reservoir poddy ๐Ÿ™‚


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 5:54 pm
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do not for the love of god do this!* check your rim first as they have handy max pressure settings, 40 psi plus on most modern tubeless rims, will have you covered in spaff, deaf and wondering why the surrounding area looks its been visited by a crack squad of bukake ninjas

*this is also the reason a lot of people say that tubeless systems are crap etc.... the lack of blokes reading instructions is amazing

The lack of blokes reading the original post is also alarming, the OP stated they are using a Shimano MT68 rim which has a max pressure of 58psi and a Smorgasbord tyre which can go up to 65psi. I'm not advocating keeping the pressure at 40+ but have found this method works on non UST tyres.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 6:19 pm
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next time you have the tyre off, scrub the inside to get all the release agent off. I did a set just before xmas and forgot to do this. It helps the sealant wet the inside of the tyre and seal it properly.

My pre xmas pair now go flat in ~48 hours. So i'll be whipping them off when all the fuss over xmas dies down, and scrubbing the bastards. Every other tyre i've done over the last ~10 years i've scrubbed, and they've all worked really well (lose ~5 psi/week)


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 6:23 pm
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First ever pair of wheels and tyres converted to tubeless.

Just ride them - the seal improves with use to a point where you may/may not notice any pressure drop.

IMHO, it's better if the Gorilla tape does go up the side of the rim a bit, but they're holding air now, so leave them alone and give them some use.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 6:42 pm
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Never had a set that don't go down by 10 psi or so in a week of not riding. I just pump them u before I leave the house. TBF I do similar with the tubes in my CX bike and roadie as well


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 7:59 pm
 PJay
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My first experience of tubeless has been quite encouraging; my WTB tubeless tyres seem to lose air at a slower rate that my old tubed Michelins.

do not for the love of god do this!* check your rim first as they have handy max pressure settings, 40 psi plus on most modern tubeless rims, will have you covered in spaff, deaf and wondering why the surrounding area looks its been visited by a crack squad of bukake ninjas

*this is also the reason a lot of people say that tubeless systems are crap etc.... the lack of blokes reading instructions is amazing

Not sure about this and for me it's got nothing to do with losing air but my WTB tyres are bleeders to seat and I need 60-80psi and lots of soapy water on the beads to get them seated correctly. The LBS even needed 100psi to seat them first time tubed and Hope (XC rims) advise that this shouldn't be a problem as long as they're not ridden at this pressure; they recommend 60psi max ridden whether tubed or tubeless.

It's probably a good idea though not to over pressurise tyres either to seat them or test for leaks with fluid in them in case they do blow off the rim!

Extra sealant on new tyres is worth a try too just to seal up pesky leaks.


 
Posted : 03/01/2018 8:04 pm